When I did mine, I put drilled a hole in the center board just large enough for the cat 5 wire to fit though. Worked for me. To do it right, you might use some sort of caulk to plug the hole around the wire. Be sure to use enough extra wire to be able to pull the driver in and out as you adjust stuffing and such.
one1speed said:
http://guerrillaaudio.com/store/bunker/How_to_build_your_own_high_end_Interconnect_Cables.html
Whelp, I'n trying to get Quicktime now but I haven't had any
success running this yet. Is it of any value?
Also on cat5, there used to be a place that showed how to braid it.
Does anyone have that?
What's the value in making a cat5 cable and what do you ask for at
the electronics store? I attempted to do this once and I got a piece
of outdoor line with a bunch of grease on it for all weather insulation.
fortunately it wasn't too long and I didn't waste much dough on it.
Hemp FR8
When you check the Godzilla pages for the BIBs you will find two designs for the Hemp FR8:
GM:
L = (Line length) 140"
So = Driver 30" down from sealed end of cabinet
Sm =303"^2
Scott:
L = (Line length) 150.5"
So = Driver 30.1" down from sealed end of cabinet
Sm = 200"^2
Taking into account that the WAF is terrible low in both cases so I will have more or less the same domestic problem, I would like to know if a sonic difference can be expected in theory and /or in real world between both designs?
When you check the Godzilla pages for the BIBs you will find two designs for the Hemp FR8:
GM:
L = (Line length) 140"
So = Driver 30" down from sealed end of cabinet
Sm =303"^2
Scott:
L = (Line length) 150.5"
So = Driver 30.1" down from sealed end of cabinet
Sm = 200"^2
Taking into account that the WAF is terrible low in both cases so I will have more or less the same domestic problem, I would like to know if a sonic difference can be expected in theory and /or in real world between both designs?
loninappleton
Actually, you can get the Plenum rated Cat 5 cable just about any where they sell bulk wire, such as Lowes. Or I suppose most any computer store would have it as well. You just want to be sure you get the teflon insulator.
As for braiding, I have never really understood why. Taking a full run of 4 twisted pairs and splitting the solids and stripes seems very good for single driver applications. For heavier bass apps, you could try some braiding. I actually braided four runs together, including the original housing, for what seemed to be fine wire. I'm sure not the end all, but the speakers weren't either, for that matter.
If you really want to split it all up and braid it, go ahead. Too much messing around for me. The originator of that, I believe, is a guy name Chris VanHouse. (not sure on the spelling.) Google may help you find him, as he has an online audio retail store. He may even sell the Cat 5 cable as well.
Best of luck.
Actually, you can get the Plenum rated Cat 5 cable just about any where they sell bulk wire, such as Lowes. Or I suppose most any computer store would have it as well. You just want to be sure you get the teflon insulator.
As for braiding, I have never really understood why. Taking a full run of 4 twisted pairs and splitting the solids and stripes seems very good for single driver applications. For heavier bass apps, you could try some braiding. I actually braided four runs together, including the original housing, for what seemed to be fine wire. I'm sure not the end all, but the speakers weren't either, for that matter.
If you really want to split it all up and braid it, go ahead. Too much messing around for me. The originator of that, I believe, is a guy name Chris VanHouse. (not sure on the spelling.) Google may help you find him, as he has an online audio retail store. He may even sell the Cat 5 cable as well.
Best of luck.
oface
lonni,,
go to www.monoprice.com
they have cat 5 and all kinds of bulk wire on the cheap,,
ray,,,
i used glue and a combination of clamps on one speaker and brads with a ir gun on the other ,, and guess what ,, i can not hear a difference,,
good luck,,
chris
lonni,,
go to www.monoprice.com
they have cat 5 and all kinds of bulk wire on the cheap,,
ray,,,
i used glue and a combination of clamps on one speaker and brads with a ir gun on the other ,, and guess what ,, i can not hear a difference,,
good luck,,
chris
Re the big Cat5 braids, Bob Brines has already commented on the needlessly high capacitance of designs like that. A thin run of magnet wire or single pair of Cat5 is likely all you'll need using FR drivers. If you want more current capacity, some zip cord, or a star-quad setup will do the job you want.
Re the hemps, Greg's will have better LF transfer into the room than mine -I was simply trying to keep the size down to slightly more managable and / or acceptable levels. As you can see from the plots, Greg's is about 95db at 30Hz compared to mine which is roughly 90db at the same frequency.
Re the hemps, Greg's will have better LF transfer into the room than mine -I was simply trying to keep the size down to slightly more managable and / or acceptable levels. As you can see from the plots, Greg's is about 95db at 30Hz compared to mine which is roughly 90db at the same frequency.
This makes sense to me. I was wondering why
it came up in the discussion of this build.
The Hobby Lobby stores have a deal on unfinished
wood items for crafts. I picked up a couple of
unfinished oval plaques to use as baffles for the
bibs. I should get going on assembly.
What was intriguing though was GM's remark about
using an irregular shape such as an artist's
pallet. Has anyone explored that?
Also, for those who have made bibs, how's the
soundstage? That was a concern from one of the
posters a while back and the reason for these
baffle tweaks and questions.
it came up in the discussion of this build.
The Hobby Lobby stores have a deal on unfinished
wood items for crafts. I picked up a couple of
unfinished oval plaques to use as baffles for the
bibs. I should get going on assembly.
What was intriguing though was GM's remark about
using an irregular shape such as an artist's
pallet. Has anyone explored that?
Also, for those who have made bibs, how's the
soundstage? That was a concern from one of the
posters a while back and the reason for these
baffle tweaks and questions.
Creative Sound?
I'm considering a first try at a full range and am interested in the CSS WR/FR125. It seems to offer a lot of options for experimentation. A lot of the Planet 10 designs look great. But, the BIB thread looks really intriguing too. Could the CSS drivers be suitable for the BIB method? If so, what would the numbers be?
Also, the Acuhorn discussion disappeared. The ceiling propagation seems to be a big part of the performance of the BIB. But, could a BIB be morphed to a an "Acuhorn" by:
1) Turning the mouth to the vertical by "sliding" it to be in the front. This would shorten the box slightly.
2) The mouth "swallowing" the narrow end of the taper above the driver so that the taper folded back. The driver would be situated at that bend.
I hope that reads as well as I see it in my head. No drawing software at work. As a new builder, and even newer to TQWT theory (reading Martin King's pages), I did not know what the fold right by the driver might do to the response.
Sorry for a longish post from an unproven source.
Regards.
I'm considering a first try at a full range and am interested in the CSS WR/FR125. It seems to offer a lot of options for experimentation. A lot of the Planet 10 designs look great. But, the BIB thread looks really intriguing too. Could the CSS drivers be suitable for the BIB method? If so, what would the numbers be?
Also, the Acuhorn discussion disappeared. The ceiling propagation seems to be a big part of the performance of the BIB. But, could a BIB be morphed to a an "Acuhorn" by:
1) Turning the mouth to the vertical by "sliding" it to be in the front. This would shorten the box slightly.
2) The mouth "swallowing" the narrow end of the taper above the driver so that the taper folded back. The driver would be situated at that bend.
I hope that reads as well as I see it in my head. No drawing software at work. As a new builder, and even newer to TQWT theory (reading Martin King's pages), I did not know what the fold right by the driver might do to the response.
Sorry for a longish post from an unproven source.
Regards.
http://www.zillaspeak.com/bib-gm.asp
CSS BIB... my bib (fostex 168S) is on the slab. Once i hook up the electrodes it should come to life.
CSS BIB... my bib (fostex 168S) is on the slab. Once i hook up the electrodes it should come to life.
Is anyone contemplating a Mega-BIB? One of the Big Ones, the Hemp or B200? The plot for the Hemp looks pretty attractive, and the timbre and tone of the Hempster I think would lend itself very well; a very good driver for this type of thing, I would think.
GM/Scott: any further thoughts on lining a Big BIB like this? Tips? Maybe I should build some.
GM/Scott: any further thoughts on lining a Big BIB like this? Tips? Maybe I should build some.
Close, but to get the driver position "Z" away from the closed end, it might look like this. Please excuse my lack of drawing siftware. The angles and dimensions are of course no where near correct...but hopefully the intent is there. I did not know what the fold right by the driver would do.
The trick, I guess, is keeping the taper going as you would want it to because the closed end's two sides act as one side for each of two other sections of the horn.
The trick, I guess, is keeping the taper going as you would want it to because the closed end's two sides act as one side for each of two other sections of the horn.
Attachments
dmason said:
I was, but Sm is too much for the RTF to be of any reasonable size for my room at least... I wanted to try it with my 8" Corals currently sounding vg in OB's, but I don't have the complete T/S (eg, exact Vas):
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=913781#post913781
One of the Lowther EX2's I have has a prob, and the surround in one needs replacing. When I visit the US again, I'll go for lowther's driver upgrade/exchange schemes. If ever a BiB dims come up for these I'd definitely try 'em.
What back horn?
I kind of noticed that when I looked at the post. I was trying to figure out what the Acuhorn was...hijacked the thread a little bit. My apologies. Moving that way just cuts out the BIB's ceiling propagation and probably a lot of the magic.
So, it looks like the CSS drivers just got even more versatile and will be the next thing to try after a 2-way and some bass guitar cabs currently in process.
Regards.
I kind of noticed that when I looked at the post. I was trying to figure out what the Acuhorn was...hijacked the thread a little bit. My apologies. Moving that way just cuts out the BIB's ceiling propagation and probably a lot of the magic.
So, it looks like the CSS drivers just got even more versatile and will be the next thing to try after a 2-way and some bass guitar cabs currently in process.
Regards.
Nothing we can do about the dip really, it's a consequence of the driver position. The AcuHorn 125 is actually just (or appears to be, from the pictures I've found) just a large CC big vent reflex, firing backward, like a reversed Replikon. Still not sure about the others, though I did come up with a couple of ideas for the 155 on the other thread. For unwanted HF from the BIB horn mouth, try lining the internal top of the mouth on all panels for about 6in down. Possibly the internal back panel as well for some of the large jobs like the hemp, but it'll likely depend on how live your room is -you could go too far and kill the dynamics, which would not be a good thing.