OK this sets the limiter than or maybe a bit lower. Thanks David
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A 24dB/oct cutoff at 40Hz would provide more protection than the 24dB/oct and 48dB/oct low-cut filters at 36Hz or higher (or 12dB/oct at 44Hz) Djim suggested.
His suggestions are based on simulations of a cabinet design similar to yours.
You can easily measure the actual cone excursion and determine what the speaker's excursion in your cabinet (as built) actually is, any HP suggestions done without actual measurements are simply educated guesses.
Also, the stresses that caused the cone kinks are not only LF related, they are in combo with the upper excursion ranges too.
Update
I have set the limiters and the crossover.
The speakers have been reconed.
If I have time I will tapper the throats.
The guy that did the reconing brought up a good point about outside speakers and dampness.
The few nights we used these at night it did get vary humid. The dew was so bad my feet got soaked packing the system back up.
I had the reconing guy treat the cones to keep them from soaking up to much humitity, but dose anyone think the humidity played a role in there distrutshoin?
I will be using them again next weekend and let you know how it gose.
Andy
I have set the limiters and the crossover.
The speakers have been reconed.
If I have time I will tapper the throats.
The guy that did the reconing brought up a good point about outside speakers and dampness.
The few nights we used these at night it did get vary humid. The dew was so bad my feet got soaked packing the system back up.
I had the reconing guy treat the cones to keep them from soaking up to much humitity, but dose anyone think the humidity played a role in there distrutshoin?
I will be using them again next weekend and let you know how it gose.
Andy
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Hell yes humidity can cause BIG problems. If it's humid go a little lighter on the system. Down here in florida it's something we pay attention to.
The low end punch softens as the speaker cone gets heavier and softer. I've seen a number of surrounds and dustcaps come apart under high humidity conditions.
If you are cutting 38-40hz and limiting for xmax then you should be ok.
I run my EQ Before the compressor/limiter.
If you have a few speakers you don't mind killing intentionally......
Set up a subwoofer crossed speaker. Any fully functional POS will do.
Throw a kick drum track on and gently bring it up. You are listening for two things... One the point where the speaker starts compressing the tone (like asthma), after that listen for a very soft breakup similar to a guitar speaker but softer and hidden in the overtones. That is your too much power point. It is way before that farting noise we all love.
If you keep the subs on the real system just below this point.. you won't blow them up. Your digital crossover may have a dynamic eq and compression. USE IT. As the system gets louder, lower the sub frequencies below 45, increase 50-70 a tad. Meyer systems do this and actually raise the crossover points and lf/hf cutoffs as the system gets louder which unfortunately most of the digital xovers I've seen cant to.
Cheers
The low end punch softens as the speaker cone gets heavier and softer. I've seen a number of surrounds and dustcaps come apart under high humidity conditions.
If you are cutting 38-40hz and limiting for xmax then you should be ok.
I run my EQ Before the compressor/limiter.
If you have a few speakers you don't mind killing intentionally......
Set up a subwoofer crossed speaker. Any fully functional POS will do.
Throw a kick drum track on and gently bring it up. You are listening for two things... One the point where the speaker starts compressing the tone (like asthma), after that listen for a very soft breakup similar to a guitar speaker but softer and hidden in the overtones. That is your too much power point. It is way before that farting noise we all love.
If you keep the subs on the real system just below this point.. you won't blow them up. Your digital crossover may have a dynamic eq and compression. USE IT. As the system gets louder, lower the sub frequencies below 45, increase 50-70 a tad. Meyer systems do this and actually raise the crossover points and lf/hf cutoffs as the system gets louder which unfortunately most of the digital xovers I've seen cant to.
Cheers
Post #69:...If I have time I will tapper the throats.
Hi 4pyros,
Instead of tapering the throat, how about a mounting baffle for your driver? This would give a defined coupling chamber, and you could match the S2 area, or reduce the chamber opening into the horn even more. Maybe you could also modify the thickness of the board the driver is mounted to to stop the cone before it hits Xlim (17mm), e.g.: a thin layer of felt glued against the baffle.
As to power, stay below 400W to keep the diaphragm displacement to xmax (9.6mm), that will give you a bit more safety and headroom. As to the effects of low cut filters, I suggest you take a look at the displacement in Hornresp using the new sampling functionality (slider, Hornresp thread Post #2081), and take a note of Xlim v. power v. frequency.
Regards,
Hi 4pyros,
Instead of tapering the throat, how about a mounting baffle for your driver? This would give a defined coupling chamber, and you could match the S2 area, or reduce the chamber opening into the horn even more. Maybe you could also modify the thickness of the board the driver is mounted to to stop the cone before it hits Xlim (17mm), e.g.: a thin layer of felt glued against the baffle.
As to power, stay below 400W to keep the diaphragm displacement to xmax (9.6mm), that will give you a bit more safety and headroom. As to the effects of low cut filters, I suggest you take a look at the displacement in Hornresp using the new sampling functionality (slider, Hornresp thread Post #2081), and take a note of Xlim v. power v. frequency.
Regards,
Oliver; Thanks for your input.
I would be afraid the cone would hit the redcer baffle in you drawing.
I am thinking maybe I could easy do a slot baffle on the inside of the existing mounting baffle? but how big should the slot be and what would be the best orientation for proper loading?
Any ideas?
Andy
I would be afraid the cone would hit the redcer baffle in you drawing.
I am thinking maybe I could easy do a slot baffle on the inside of the existing mounting baffle? but how big should the slot be and what would be the best orientation for proper loading?
Any ideas?
Andy
the slot opening should be bigger or equal to s2
furry sub ?i think it is in the live sound th tread.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/131852-live-sound-specific-tapped-horn-thread.html
furry sub ?i think it is in the live sound th tread.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/131852-live-sound-specific-tapped-horn-thread.html
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If you're using 1/2" material, that would mean an excursion of ~13mm.
I think Oliver's suggestion is quite safe and offers a more even load on the cone than Scott's Fury sub slot, which is in line with your cone tearing problem.
No, not at all.
But after taking it apart i see that its not the compression that was the problem, it was overexcursion.
The voicecoil hit bottom.
I wasnt at the gig when it happened, but my son told me the DJ was playing some stupid loud bass-noise when it happened.
Dag
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