I'm not sure of the material of the posts, it is either a very cheap zinc metal with gold plating, feels like plastic; it could even be gold plated plastic to achieve conductance. Anyways, they work, and I cannot say for sure they make any difference in their sound. I wanted to be able to use either bare speaker wire ends or banana plugs without breaking the bank.
As for sound, the W3's were never properly broken-in, as they only had some 10 hours of use in uFonken prior to using them in these TABAQ's. To me they sound a little boomy, but my room is all concrete with glass windows and ceramic tile floor; a nightmare. Also, the equipment I tested them with is too much for them, as my Dayton DTA-1 T-Amp is in my office. I made these speakers for to be used for digital source music playing through the DTA-1. Right now I have them connected to my Conrad Johnson MV-75 (KT-90's) amp with McIntosh MX-113 pre. This combo puts out lots of detail with nice top end, and solid/clear/controlled bass, which goes down lower with the KT-90's than using the usual KT-88's. I have not heard them using my turntable (Rega P-2 with glass platter and modified RB-250 arm), instead I used my Jolida JD602A CD Player. My educated guess is that the the slight "boominess" will be controlled once I use digital sources through the DTA-1, also as the drivers get more break-in time. Also, since I used polyfill, I can always uninstall the driver and take out 1/2 oz. to 1 oz. of polyfill to control the bass output. I will do that as a last resource, after some 50 hrs. of break-in and after I have tested them with the DTA-1 amp.
I tested the speakers using songs I know. It was late, so I only played 4 or 5 songs. I played a mix from Adele's 21 (never liked this CD, I think it is poorly recorded), Toto's Greatest Hits (Africa), Supertramp's Breakfast In America (Logical Song), La Quinta Estación (pop rock group from Spain, with one of the very best female singers in any language), and Caribbean Jazz Project (latin jazz with caribbean flare). Except for jazz, I could never go past 1/3 of the volume capability of my equipment, but that was expected.
The speakers had great low end for such a small full range driver, as mentioned it was slightly boomy. Boominess was also more noticeable when taking the speakers to their limit, at regular listening volume (nearfield) the bass was solid and controlled, and in balance with the mids and highs. The speakers excel in the mid levels, voices and instruments playing on the low mid to high mid range were clear, distinguishable, coherent, and a joy to hear. Sometimes instrument separation was not at it's best, but that was when taking the speakers to their limit. Highs are there, you can hear the detail and even at their limit they stay that way. But, I wish there was a little more sizzle and dynamics to them, maybe that will change with break-in. With my equipment, the TABAQ/W3-881SI would benefit from a 1/2" to 3/4" tweeter (low cut at around 7 KHz) that will not overshadow the mids of the full range drivers. When I tested them last night, I never touched the bass/treble/loudness controls on my pre-amp, they were kept neutral at 0.
I really like these speakers, some of the shortcomings or SQ issues I mentioned have to do with equipment synergy (big believer of this concept), the equipment I used is overkill for my TABAQ's. I'm sure once I use them with the intended digital sources and DTA-1 amp, bass boominess will dissapear or be unnoticeable, which I can further control by taking out some polyfill from the enclosure (using 4 oz. right now), and the highs will be better. I also have an HK 330b 15 WPC receiver that has a bad cap and needs to be repaired (sick and tired of getting a small jolt everytime I touch the decorative bezel around the receiver's face), this receiver might be ideal for the TABAQ's. These speakers are definitely for nearfield use in small rooms or an office (my intended use).
As for the way the look, I like the simple industrial look of the speakers, the Dark Cavern (Dark Charcoal Gray) color and use of Flat Acrylic Latex Paint not only helps in making them look "industrial", but hide all my wood working mistakes. I will wait a few days for the paint to fully cure, then I will give them a gloss lacquer. These will be great office speakers...
I would consider this project a success, taking in consideration the price paid for the drivers, the cost of wood, cost of binding posts, the $1.00 spent on 4 ft. of Cat5 wire, and miscellaneous expenses (paint, silicone, etc.) I spent less than $100.00, and I still have paint, silicone, 1/2 wood panel (approx. 4' x 4' left), wood glue, etc. for another project.
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Yes, one pair. For example, in one speaker I used the white/orange pair, with orange for the +, and white/orange stripe for the -.
The W3-881SI is a Poly Composite, and does not suffer of this problem. I have heard those comments about other brands using paper.
My build is getting closer (unfortunately the Post office is playing with me and I haven't received my Vifas yet). I want to decorate the front (baffle) with wood tiles, that will add to the thickness and the weight to the front.
How would You make the box weight more, in case the box tend to tipping to the front?
How would You make the box weight more, in case the box tend to tipping to the front?
There are a few ways, and I'm sure people here will add. Two alternatives that come to mind are:
1. Add 3" to 4" height after the bottom base of the speaker enclosure, fill with lead, sand, or a mix of both, and seal with another base. The speaker will be taller, which helps as to getting it to ear level when sitting down. Plus, it will serve as a stable base.
2. Be creative with the side panels design. You can extend the bottom part of the panels, as to give it a longer base. There are a few enclosures like that here.
I'm not sure of the material of the posts, it is either a very cheap zinc metal with gold plating, feels like plastic; it could even be gold plated plastic to achieve conductance. Anyways, they work, and I cannot say for sure they make any difference in their sound. I wanted to be able to use either bare speaker wire ends or banana plugs without breaking the bank.
As for sound, the W3's were never properly broken-in, as they only had some 10 hours of use in uFonken prior to using them in these TABAQ's. To me they sound a little boomy, but my room is all concrete with glass windows and ceramic tile floor; a nightmare. Also, the equipment I tested them with is too much for them, as my Dayton DTA-1 T-Amp is in my office. I made these speakers for to be used for digital source music playing through the DTA-1. Right now I have them connected to my Conrad Johnson MV-75 (KT-90's) amp with McIntosh MX-113 pre. This combo puts out lots of detail with nice top end, and solid/clear/controlled bass, which goes down lower with the KT-90's than using the usual KT-88's. I have not heard them using my turntable (Rega P-2 with glass platter and modified RB-250 arm), instead I used my Jolida JD602A CD Player. My educated guess is that the the slight "boominess" will be controlled once I use digital sources through the DTA-1, also as the drivers get more break-in time. Also, since I used polyfill, I can always uninstall the driver and take out 1/2 oz. to 1 oz. of polyfill to control the bass output. I will do that as a last resource, after some 50 hrs. of break-in and after I have tested them with the DTA-1 amp.
I tested the speakers using songs I know. It was late, so I only played 4 or 5 songs. I played a mix from Adele's 21 (never liked this CD, I think it is poorly recorded), Toto's Greatest Hits (Africa), Supertramp's Breakfast In America (Logical Song), La Quinta Estación (pop rock group from Spain, with one of the very best female singers in any language), and Caribbean Jazz Project (latin jazz with caribbean flare). Except for jazz, I could never go past 1/3 of the volume capability of my equipment, but that was expected.
The speakers had great low end for such a small full range driver, as mentioned it was slightly boomy. Boominess was also more noticeable when taking the speakers to their limit, at regular listening volume (nearfield) the bass was solid and controlled, and in balance with the mids and highs. The speakers excel in the mid levels, voices and instruments playing on the low mid to high mid range were clear, distinguishable, coherent, and a joy to hear. Sometimes instrument separation was not at it's best, but that was when taking the speakers to their limit. Highs are there, you can hear the detail and even at their limit they stay that way. But, I wish there was a little more sizzle and dynamics to them, maybe that will change with break-in. With my equipment, the TABAQ/W3-881SI would benefit from a 1/2" to 3/4" tweeter (low cut at around 7 KHz) that will not overshadow the mids of the full range drivers. When I tested them last night, I never touched the bass/treble/loudness controls on my pre-amp, they were kept neutral at 0.
I really like these speakers, some of the shortcomings or SQ issues I mentioned have to do with equipment synergy (big believer of this concept), the equipment I used is overkill for my TABAQ's. I'm sure once I use them with the intended digital sources and DTA-1 amp, bass boominess will dissapear or be unnoticeable, which I can further control by taking out some polyfill from the enclosure (using 4 oz. right now), and the highs will be better. I also have an HK 330b 15 WPC receiver that has a bad cap and needs to be repaired (sick and tired of getting a small jolt everytime I touch the decorative bezel around the receiver's face), this receiver might be ideal for the TABAQ's. These speakers are definitely for nearfield use in small rooms or an office (my intended use).
As for the way the look, I like the simple industrial look of the speakers, the Dark Cavern (Dark Charcoal Gray) color and use of Flat Acrylic Latex Paint not only helps in making them look "industrial", but hide all my wood working mistakes. I will wait a few days for the paint to fully cure, then I will give them a gloss lacquer. These will be great office speakers...
I would consider this project a success, taking in consideration the price paid for the drivers, the cost of wood, cost of binding posts, the $1.00 spent on 4 ft. of Cat5 wire, and miscellaneous expenses (paint, silicone, etc.) I spent less than $100.00, and I still have paint, silicone, 1/2 wood panel (approx. 4' x 4' left), wood glue, etc. for another project.
Finally I brought home my Dayton DTA-1 amp from the office. The TABAQ's I built are to be used with this amp and digital sources (CDP, IPod/Iphone, PC) for those times that I just want to hear clear music while I work at home or at the office. I connected the speakers to the amp and connected my IPhone directly, and I'm listening to Pandora (Somebody that I used to know "Station"). This is the way these speakers will be used, no external DAC's.
The sound coming from the speakers is very different from the SQ when using my main music system. Boominess has totally dissapeared, bass is very tight, for example kick drum is quick and solid, highs are very detailed and crisp, you can hear them more clearly now. As for the mids, they are still detailed, voices are clear, though not as clear as with my main music system, in general very nice, though there is a slight sibilance that wasn't there when using my main music system. Hearing Jasmin Thompson's Let Her Go sounds very nice, the notes from the piano hang nicely, but lacks some weight. But, we are comparing an inexpensive Dayton T-Amp ($25.00 on sale a year or so ago) with the factory wall transformer, with Pandora/IPhone using the 3.5mm headphone output, cheap 16 AWG speaker cable, and the about 20 hrs. break-in TABAQ's. The total system is less than $100.00, actually more like in the neighborhood of $75.00. Compared to my main music system, which valued using today's used prices is approx. $2,300.00 (almost $13,000.00 if we used the original sales prices when new and adjusted for inflation), this system is perfect for my intended use, and I would put it up against systems in the $800.00 range, and it would be a winner.
Thanks for such a nice design that can be easily built by anyone very inexpensively. I highly recommend building a pair and using it with a low wattage amp in a small room or office...
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Well, yes...But, the one everyone here "raves" about is the TC (paper). If you were definitely talking about composite cone, then it is the TG that you mentioned.
AFAIK most of us refer to the Vifa TG9 (which is the fibreglass one).
There speakers have different name in Europe,
TG9 is Vifa 9 BG (fibreglass cone)
TC9 is[SIZE=+1] Vifa 9 B[SIZE=+1]N[/SIZE][/SIZE] (paper cone)
There speakers have different name in Europe,
TG9 is Vifa 9 BG (fibreglass cone)
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
TC9 is[SIZE=+1] Vifa 9 B[SIZE=+1]N[/SIZE][/SIZE] (paper cone)
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
