I've now disabled the DC offset cct and the DC at the speaker terminals has dropped from 500mV to 50mv and 20mv, much better..
The power supply I'm using at the moment is outputting 12.2V which after the diode and measured at the power caps is 11.8V. So if you leave the diode in place you should allow for the volt drop it causes.
It is sounding nice at moment and bass is OK to me. I'm not a very good judge of these things because I don't have top of the range high efficiency speakers.
I wonder why Sure seem to have used wrong value components. Please wait for more technically minded people to receive their boards and perhaps different findings..
The power supply I'm using at the moment is outputting 12.2V which after the diode and measured at the power caps is 11.8V. So if you leave the diode in place you should allow for the volt drop it causes.
It is sounding nice at moment and bass is OK to me. I'm not a very good judge of these things because I don't have top of the range high efficiency speakers.
I wonder why Sure seem to have used wrong value components. Please wait for more technically minded people to receive their boards and perhaps different findings..
Well mine still haven't arrived but it's pretty interesting reading your posts Barry.
I suppose the strip board is there for you to play around with.
VDD will be the 5V generator (I can't think that its the 12V rail unless they expect you to regulate it down?) so you can use it to switch mute and sleep and connect fault if you want? Put a MM on VDD and see what you get.
I think those inductors are coming off but without seeing the underside of the board I can't decide what to do yet........
Come on postie
I suppose the strip board is there for you to play around with.
VDD will be the 5V generator (I can't think that its the 12V rail unless they expect you to regulate it down?) so you can use it to switch mute and sleep and connect fault if you want? Put a MM on VDD and see what you get.
I think those inductors are coming off but without seeing the underside of the board I can't decide what to do yet........
Come on postie
Hi Lee, VDD near the Mute terminal is at rail voltage but there is a 22k between mute at chip and the Mute terminal and another 22k between Mute terminal and ground. So the voltage is dropped to about 5V at the Mute pin. So Mute connected to VDD does mute the chip.
Hope you soon have yours, PS not much to see on the back...
Hope you soon have yours, PS not much to see on the back...
"Thanks a lot for your purchases. We are very sorry for the delay. The amplifier was out of stock for some days. Finally your package was shipped via airmail on December 12th. Normally it takes 10~15 days to the UK. We apologize for the inconvenience. Don't hesitate to contact us if you have any questions.
Best regards.
Sure Electronics"
Well... obviously 1st come doesn't mean 1st served then!
My new Years project it is then
Best regards.
Sure Electronics"
Well... obviously 1st come doesn't mean 1st served then!
My new Years project it is then
I bet they ran out of 22k resistors
I ordered one of these boards way back in November, still haven't received it yet...
For those who do have it, is it pretty good? I'm not necessarily looking for "audiofile" sound, my expectations are simply, a clean somewhat powerful 10 watts per channel. Does this amp do that?
Has anyone put the unit on a amp meter to see what kind of power it draws? (at idol, and full power) Just trying to calculate how long my battery will last...
Mike
For those who do have it, is it pretty good? I'm not necessarily looking for "audiofile" sound, my expectations are simply, a clean somewhat powerful 10 watts per channel. Does this amp do that?
Has anyone put the unit on a amp meter to see what kind of power it draws? (at idol, and full power) Just trying to calculate how long my battery will last...
Mike
Magicdj said:
Since it's an T-amp clone it would use about 330mA at full power before clipping (badly). And about 10mA idle.
Remember that music varies in level, and is normally mixed to a zero-level at -12db as per the RIAA norm, therefore the average expected output is only roughly a 4th of what you'd expect.
I'll try to post a pic...
Having listened to this amp for a few days (and following the advice given, removed C3 & C24), it is, in my opinion, an excellent performer. The bass is there—no doubt—but still, by comparison to the original S.I. T-Amp, the higher frequencies seem slightly rolled off. Nevertheless, with well matched speakers it is, in the established Tripath tradition, a sonic revelation (and sensational value for money).
My interest is primarily in music, in melody, the sound and the song (I don't consider myself to be a 'golden eared audiophile', and have no time for 'buy-wire' cable voodoo, overpriced interconnects etc. [no flame-bait intended!]) I've been listening, practically exclusively, to various flavours of Tripath chips, since early 2005—this implementation does not disappoint!
Robert_S
My interest is primarily in music, in melody, the sound and the song (I don't consider myself to be a 'golden eared audiophile', and have no time for 'buy-wire' cable voodoo, overpriced interconnects etc. [no flame-bait intended!]) I've been listening, practically exclusively, to various flavours of Tripath chips, since early 2005—this implementation does not disappoint!
Robert_S
I'm looking at adding volume control and upsizing the input caps. I found this diagram for the SI amp. For this unit, do I remove C13 and C21, jumper them, then follow this diagram? Do the existing input caps need to removed at all, or can I just jumper across them?
I do not have shielded cable for the RCA run. Will twisting the two wires from the jack be good enough? I will not be running near the power cables at all.
I'm also going to tack on at least one 220uF low esr cap I have lying around onto the existing 100uF SMDs for a 520uF value per side, is this worth the trouble? Bass is actually pretty decent with the existing 3x100uF...
I do not have shielded cable for the RCA run. Will twisting the two wires from the jack be good enough? I will not be running near the power cables at all.
I'm also going to tack on at least one 220uF low esr cap I have lying around onto the existing 100uF SMDs for a 520uF value per side, is this worth the trouble? Bass is actually pretty decent with the existing 3x100uF...
Attachments
Never mind on this question, I see the thread is directly above.
Any opinions on the 4x100w amp that they also offer? I'm looking for a replacement amp for my HT setup where 2 of the amp channels have died on my receiver, while the pre-amp section still works. It doesn't have to sound great as long as it can play.
It may also work as an amp for my son where he cranks it up. He's using a Charlize amp now and complains that he can't turn it up.
Any opinions on the 4x100w amp that they also offer? I'm looking for a replacement amp for my HT setup where 2 of the amp channels have died on my receiver, while the pre-amp section still works. It doesn't have to sound great as long as it can play.
It may also work as an amp for my son where he cranks it up. He's using a Charlize amp now and complains that he can't turn it up.
zacster said:
There is a separate thread on that unit.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=111147
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