Sure Electronics New Tripath Board tc2000+tp2050

whelibob · 2009-07-06 3:09 pm

audio1st said:
Hello, Yes you remove C25 and C17 and connect as on the right in the picture, replacing C24 and C16.

I removed the voltage limiters because they limited the treble in my case. If you find the treble OK or bright, you could leave them in place.

Okey, thanks alot for your help! Ill start replacing them, and ill report what happened

whelibob · 2009-07-06 4:39 pm

whelibob said:
Okey, thanks alot for your help! Ill start replacing them, and ill report what happened

Done succesfully. Im really suprised with myself, I didnt brake anything. It improved the low notes alot, thanks alot everyone for your tips!

2noisy · 2009-07-06 11:20 pm

whelibob said:
Done succesfully. Im really suprised with myself, I didnt brake anything. It improved the low notes alot, thanks alot everyone for your tips!

Hi Whielibob
i just get my board and i don't really "know" electricity ,i just have good hands
can you please upload a pic of your final results sometime ?
it can help a lot

thanks
gooday ya all

swkbkk · 2009-07-07 4:00 am

Input Cap replacement

I have been scared off of destroying my board by my flimsy attempt to mod it. But a successful input cap replacement by whelibob has given me some courage to try myself finally.

But I have two "technical" problems at the moment.

How do I "remove" the small SMDs (C25, C17)? Any tips on doing some kind of precision surgical removal?

I got a pair of WIMA MKP10 (2.2uF, 250V) but they are a lot bigger than the size of C24, and C25 that they are going to replace.

What's the best way of putting the MKP10s to the board with minimum effort?

swkbkk · 2009-07-07 8:37 am

Further to my previous post on input cap replacement, my WIMA MKP10 capacitors have legs which are only half a centimetre long and the two legs are almost 3 cm apart!

I think I need to put some wires to "extend the legs" and connect the other ends of the wires to the holes where C24 and C25 are connected. And then somehow make the caps "stay still".

I would appreciate any tips and suggestions on how to replace my input caps.

sayang001 · 2009-07-07 8:16 pm

Don't forget to upgrade the heatsink as well.
Pentium 4 heatsink chopped:

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

Fit's nicely:

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

The module on the photo is the broken one, still waiting for the replacement.

gychang · 2009-07-07 8:32 pm

sayang001 said:
Don't forget to upgrade the heatsink as well.
Pentium 4 heatsink chopped:

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

Fit's nicely:

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

The module on the photo is the broken one, still waiting for the replacement.

what did u use to "glue" the heatsink to the chip?

gychang

sayang001 · 2009-07-07 10:38 pm

Didn't glue it. Drilled holes and threaded them for M3 bolts. Between heatsink and PCB I use nylon washers. Will post a picture tomorrow.
Between chip and heatsink I will use artic silver compound.

ttan98 · 2009-07-07 11:25 pm

sayang001 said:
Didn't glue it. Drilled holes and threaded them for M3 bolts. Between heatsink and PCB I use nylon washers. Will post a picture tomorrow.
Between chip and heatsink I will use artic silver compound.

How do you remove the previous heatsink? please outline. Thanks.

gychang · 2009-07-08 4:29 am

audio1st said:
I simply added a couple of pieces of bent ally to the fins of the heat-sink. This lowered the temp by 10 degrees C..

what "compound" did u use to hold the ally to the fins?, some sort of glue? I am unsure how people put heatsink on a chip when there are no clips or screw holes.

gychang

sayang001 · 2009-07-08 7:14 am

How do you remove the previous heatsink? please outline. Thanks.

Removed the plastic clamps and heated the heatsink with hot air to +/- 70 degrees , then twisted it with my hand. use protective gloves of course. Don't heat to much as you don't want that the tp2050 ic's comes loose as well.

whelibob · 2009-07-08 10:54 am

Re: Input Cap replacement

swkbkk said:
I have been scared off of destroying my board by my flimsy attempt to mod it. But a successful input cap replacement by whelibob has given me some courage to try myself finally.

But I have two "technical" problems at the moment.

How do I "remove" the small SMDs (C25, C17)? Any tips on doing some kind of precision surgical removal?

I got a pair of WIMA MKP10 (2.2uF, 250V) but they are a lot bigger than the size of C24, and C25 that they are going to replace.

What's the best way of putting the MKP10s to the board with minimum effort?

I used small pliers and a soldering iron to remove those small SMD's.

If you have a wide WIMA capacitor, i would just use some sort of extra wires to make the legs reach the hole.

Here are some poor pics of the modding:
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j114/wehlami/DSC00188.jpg
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j114/wehlami/DSC00189.jpg
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j114/wehlami/DSC00191.jpg
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j114/wehlami/DSC00194.jpg

The fan spins a bit too fast since its connected to 24Volts. Need to reconnect it with 12Volts so it is silent.

riktw · 2009-07-08 4:20 pm

if you connect the fan to the 5V its really silent

but i use an 12cm fan with 5V, dont know if a small fan cools enough at 5V

nrg2009 · 2009-07-09 12:34 am

Thanks for the photos whelibob. That makes it clearer, I think I'll be able to figure it out from that.
Also Rik, I'd like to see your setup as well, would you mind posting some photos? I'm also thinking of attaching a 12V fan to the 5V output to keep it quiet.
Could anyone post some detailed photos of the Zobel components? They seem to be missing from the latest models.

Also, is there any benefit from a cap on the input rail?

Keep up the great work, it's a fun project to work on.

nrg2009 · 2009-07-09 2:01 am

Gents,

I'm a bit of noob when it comes to audio DIY. Which caps are considered to be appropriate for this mod? I found a couple candidates:

mentioned before in this thread are Wima:
- Wima MKS, MKM or MKP?

-Jantzen cap:
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=027-266

-Auricap:
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=027-674

-Xicon:
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=020-1284

Thanks!

2noisy · 2009-07-09 4:07 am

Thank you whelibob for sharing

Piek · 2009-07-09 12:57 pm

Did anyone try to replace the smd LED's with larger types that can be installed at the enclosure for indication of status?

-Micha

whelibob · 2009-07-09 7:09 pm

riktw said:
if you connect the fan to the 5V its really silent
but i use an 12cm fan with 5V, dont know if a small fan cools enough at 5V

I probably did something wrong when i connected my fan to 5V, because the amp muted

Can you show where exactly you got the 5volts?

Ah im really stupid. I should ground it somewhere else then into the mute

Nisbeth · 2009-07-09 7:57 pm

Piek said:
Did anyone try to replace the smd LED's with larger types that can be installed at the enclosure for indication of status?

-Micha

No, but it shouldn't be a problem if you remove the SMD-LED and wire up a new LED in its place.

/U.

sayang001 · 2009-07-10 9:12 am

Received my replacement today, not so bad from Sure Electronics after all.

Sure Electronics New Tripath Board tc2000+tp2050

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