Sure Electronics New Tripath Board 4*100W class-D Amplifier Board

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This is the board I have ordered with the planned use of turning a passive PA speaker into an battery powered active speaker of sorts.

I have read the entire thread and have seen many users talk about using it with an active crossover to bi amp their speakers, but no specifics.

Does anyone have any recommendations for value for money (read cheep) active 2 way crossovers which would be suitable for this application?


I have also noticed on other threads that people have spoken about shure going into liquidation which has me a little concerned.
The board I ordered was from aliexpress, and claims to be a shure board, but if shure no longer exist, is it likely that the board I have ordered is actually a knock off?

I have learnt a ton from reading all your input, and wish to thank you all for your incredible help.
 
This is the board I have ordered with the planned use of turning a passive PA speaker into an battery powered active speaker of sorts.

I have read the entire thread and have seen many users talk about using it with an active crossover to bi amp their speakers, but no specifics.

Does anyone have any recommendations for value for money (read cheep) active 2 way crossovers which would be suitable for this application?


I have also noticed on other threads that people have spoken about shure going into liquidation which has me a little concerned.
The board I ordered was from aliexpress, and claims to be a shure board, but if shure no longer exist, is it likely that the board I have ordered is actually a knock off?

I have learnt a ton from reading all your input, and wish to thank you all for your incredible help.

Mini dsp and cheap active crosssovers alike sound cheap because they are cheap. If you really want to go active I recommend you to charge a few extra $ and stick with the behringer DCX2496 or go classic active crossover. Just keep in mind that you can bi-amp with a passive crossover anyways. Just get circuits from woofers/mids/tweeters separated and not paralleled . Connect each to one channel like:
ch1-L for tweeter 1
ch2-L for woofer 1
ch3-R for tweeter 2
ch4-R for woofer 2 .
 
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Mini dsp and cheap active crosssovers alike sound cheap because they are cheap.

This is a matter of opinion. I have seen more positive reviews of the miniDSP than I have seen negative. All things considered, I decided that I needed to hear one myself before passing judgement, so I have one on the way. For $100, it may not be perfect - but the flexibility, tweak-ability and ease of use are extremely attractive. Something tells me bregiz2 is not aiming for the ultimate in high fidelity with this portable PA speaker.
 
For $100, it may not be perfect - but the flexibility, tweak-ability and ease of use are extremely attractive.

We can get close but perfection is something that does not belong to this world...

You can consult the dcx2496 datasheet right here and the miniDSP here

Something tells me bregiz2 is not aiming for the ultimate in high fidelity with this portable PA speaker.
That's why I suggested a passive crossover that will cost him a fraction of the price of a miniDSP or any other active crossover solution.
 
From what I understand using a crossover after the amp means that the amp is using energy to boost up a signal only to have half theW converted to heat during the filtering process.

I may be missing something. (still schooling myself in a lot of respects) But this seems like a pretty inefficient use of two amp channels. and I am not sure that there would be a huge difference in results between that and and just using one channel and a crossover?
 
From what I understand using a crossover after the amp means that the amp is using energy to boost up a signal only to have half theW converted to heat during the filtering process.

I may be missing something. (still schooling myself in a lot of respects) But this seems like a pretty inefficient use of two amp channels. and I am not sure that there would be a huge difference in results between that and and just using one channel and a crossover?

No, you will not loose half of the power with a passive crossover. If you are very concerned about power then you can build a 12dB filter right in the feedback loop of your board.
The gain you will have by bi-amping your system is more about sound quality than power.

Sound quality wise it is very important to time align drivers, no matter if go active or passive .
 
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We can get close but perfection is something that does not belong to this world...

You can consult the dcx2496 datasheet right here and the miniDSP here


That's why I suggested a passive crossover that will cost him a fraction of the price of a miniDSP or any other active crossover solution.

Well, actually you first suggested a much more expensive active option.

But anyway, the idea that passive components can be had at a fraction of the cost depends entirely on what sort of passive crossover is chosen and at what crossover frequency is desired. I have considered employing passive crossovers for several different projects and many times I decided against it simply because the components, when added all up, would have ended up costing me anywhere from $50-$80. The miniDSP is $80 and offers several orders of magnitude more functionality and flexibility than a collection of passive components.

Just my $0.02
 
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No, you will not loose half of the power with a passive crossover. If you are very concerned about power then you can build a 12dB filter right in the feedback loop of your board.
The gain you will have by bi-amping your system is more about sound quality than power.

Sound quality wise it is very important to time align drivers, no matter if go active or passive .

The article I have been reading on biamping appears to contradict what you are saying both in redgards to no power gain, and in regards to no loss through passive crossovers. But it could quite possibly just be that I am missing something, and miss interpreting.

BiAmp (Bi-Amplification - Not Quite Magic, But Close) - Part 1

I have not heard of a 12db filter in a feedback loop on the board before.
Can you point me in the direction of any reading material so that I can explore / understand this option?
 
The article I have been reading on biamping appears to contradict what you are saying both in redgards to no power gain, and in regards to no loss through passive crossovers. But it could quite possibly just be that I am missing something, and miss interpreting.

That's because I never said that there are no losses while using a passive crossover... I said you would not lose half of the power...

I never said that there are no power gains while bi-amping. I might rephrase myself by saying that the benefits you will have by bi-amping your system are more about sound quality than pure power.

I have not heard of a 12db filter in a feedback loop on the board before.
Can you point me in the direction of any reading material so that I can explore / understand this option?

The attached datasheet has everything you need to know on where to build the filter and this page is your tool to calculate the actual filter values.

Good luck
 

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Hi,
I Have bought the 4x100w from sure.. I think the news revision, not the same Model.
But i Have a question, IS it possible to Have a 2,5V in Dc offset?! With the potentiometer i only have bad precision..
And what about Bass? I uses a 2,2 uF input cap and i Have chanded the low pass filter on output stage, but higher frequences are still too much present and the Bass is Very bad!
 
I have too the 4x100W model and it definitely has too dominant midrange. It is problem as midbass range is then too weak, balance is not right. Needs equalizing and it is annoying. I am considering going to my old amp setup. And yes I had to also tweak bias voltages, they were way off at 25 volts power supply. The midrange issue is serious.
 
Somehow have killed 2 of these boards, please help!

Hi folks, just wondering if somebody can help me with this problem. I dont think i have done anything i shouldn't of, no mods or anything. Just got no.1 out of box, wired up correct polarity 24v dc (from 2x golf buggy batteries), connected to 2 x 200w 8 ohm pa speakers. worked fine, never pushed into clipping, after about 8 hrs use, 1 day i turned it on, and it kept popping and smoking and blowing my inline fuse (sounded like it as coming from the caps) green light comes on with fan but no sound, keeps popping and smoking.
Spoke to parts express (ebay) about this and they promptly issued me a new one.
Plugged that in, all wired correctly, after about 3 hrs use, turned it on another day and no sound on any channel, no pops/smokes or any sign of damage, just no sound!
Only 2 things i did that i could think may have upset them was
1:
run 12v from 1 of my 12v bats (2x 12v in series 24v supply) to power my effects pedal at the same time (would this be likely to cause such a fatality?)
2: Didnt have a switch on the supply cable so sometimes when connecting to the batteries it would take me a few quick on/offs in succesion until i had clamped the cable to the batteries terminals (could this kill it?)

Otherwise i am thinking that there is a dodgy batch being supplied by partsexpress.com, anyone elese bought from them?

Thanks in advance, jimi
 
Hey guys, I have one of these all wired up and working a treat off a 12v car battery.

I am using it to build a mobile battery powered PA, and was wondering if you all might have some advice on a good (but value for money) lithium battery to pair with this board?

Was hoping to get something from aliexpress.

Any help would be greatly appreciated :)
 
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