Re: Eventually more power from Sure Electronics
a few months back after i recieved 3 of their 4, 100w, amp modules, i told them about the tripath amplifiers, and inparticularly ones based on the TA3020. And said if you made Amplifiers using this chip, you would have hobbyists cumming in their pants. Well something like that. lol.
i also said sell them for a modest price and they would make thousands of pounds. as that module imparticular, is Arguably one of the best T/D class amp modules around.
i hope they did listen
e_fortier said:
a few months back after i recieved 3 of their 4, 100w, amp modules, i told them about the tripath amplifiers, and inparticularly ones based on the TA3020. And said if you made Amplifiers using this chip, you would have hobbyists cumming in their pants. Well something like that. lol.
i also said sell them for a modest price and they would make thousands of pounds. as that module imparticular, is Arguably one of the best T/D class amp modules around.
i hope they did listen
Re: Re: Eventually more power from Sure Electronics
It's already there...
http://www.elektor.nl/artikelen-als-pdf/2004/september/clarity-eindversterker-deel-2.52803.lynkx
(although you need to build a few components yourself, but the SMD work is already done for you)
http://41hz.com/main.aspx?pageID=135
(all DIY, therefore not very easy to build, but certainly one of the best amps in the world....)
emperor said:
a few months back after i recieved 3 of their 4, 100w, amp modules, i told them about the tripath amplifiers, and inparticularly ones based on the TA3020. And said if you made Amplifiers using this chip, you would have hobbyists cumming in their pants.
It's already there...
http://www.elektor.nl/artikelen-als-pdf/2004/september/clarity-eindversterker-deel-2.52803.lynkx
(although you need to build a few components yourself, but the SMD work is already done for you)
http://41hz.com/main.aspx?pageID=135
(all DIY, therefore not very easy to build, but certainly one of the best amps in the world....)
Here's the English version:
http://www.elektor-electronics.co.u...0w-class-t-amplifier-part-2.57208.lynkx?tab=4
http://www.elektor-electronics.co.u...0w-class-t-amplifier-part-2.57208.lynkx?tab=4
Today I replaced the inductors on one channel with toroids of the type Tekko suggested (T94-2, 30µF). My winding is far from perfect, but it shouldn't be too bad for it to work.
My objections are basically the same as col's. The hiss is gone, as is the bass. Apart from that there are also some cracks from time to time, but this could as well be because I ruined on mounting hole and had to fix it.
I don't believe that the hiss can be solved after all what people tried with this amp.
Well, time to get some good modules. Like Hypex, but they actually have to much power for me, since my speakers are only reated 80W RMS.
With best regards,
Darius
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
My objections are basically the same as col's. The hiss is gone, as is the bass. Apart from that there are also some cracks from time to time, but this could as well be because I ruined on mounting hole and had to fix it.
I don't believe that the hiss can be solved after all what people tried with this amp.
Well, time to get some good modules. Like Hypex, but they actually have to much power for me, since my speakers are only reated 80W RMS.
With best regards,
Darius
AMP9, sounds great, there has recently been a BASIC version released which is relatively easy to build (at least you don't have to wind eight toroidal coils). It has no turn on/off pops, it's small and reasonably cheap (considering the quality it's a real bargain).
Be quick because the chip is running out of stock soon!
Be quick because the chip is running out of stock soon!
Hey Tekko, did you receive that amp yet?
Moter, the "cracks" will be coming from the torodial arc'ing against the heatsink, put a piece of plastic in between. Also, if you have lost the bass then you have one of the coils the wrong way around, out of phase. Are your speakers 4ohm or 8ohm? The Hypex UcD180 modules are simple to build into a box. Powering 8ohm speakers they would only supply around 108w max. So you will be alright with your 80w speakers if they are 8ohm and anyway you can always turn the volume down They are MUCH simpler than the 41hz amp9-basic.
V-bro, I have finished the first of my two amp9-basic and it is really an awesome amp. It is everything that I was hoping from the SureElectronics 4*100 plus more as you have "mute" circuit and LEDs for overload etc. and NO NOISE
OMG are they really going to run out of chips!!??
There will be some photos of my amp9-basic in my website soon.
col.
Moter, the "cracks" will be coming from the torodial arc'ing against the heatsink, put a piece of plastic in between. Also, if you have lost the bass then you have one of the coils the wrong way around, out of phase. Are your speakers 4ohm or 8ohm? The Hypex UcD180 modules are simple to build into a box. Powering 8ohm speakers they would only supply around 108w max. So you will be alright with your 80w speakers if they are 8ohm and anyway you can always turn the volume down
They are MUCH simpler than the 41hz amp9-basic.V-bro, I have finished the first of my two amp9-basic and it is really an awesome amp. It is everything that I was hoping from the SureElectronics 4*100 plus more as you have "mute" circuit and LEDs for overload etc. and NO NOISE
OMG are they really going to run out of chips!!??
There will be some photos of my amp9-basic in my website soon.
col.
SureElectronics 4*100w ==> 41hz Amp9-Basic
http://minirig.org.au/2008/05/28/minirig-41hzcom-amp9-basic/
The only thing remaining is the heatsink!
col.
http://minirig.org.au/2008/05/28/minirig-41hzcom-amp9-basic/
The only thing remaining is the heatsink!
col.
v-bro, thanks for the tip. I knew this amp and it's not quite the right for me since I want to do it right this time and thus am looking for a balanced or bridgeable amplifier module. Some of the other 41hz modules are bridgeable, but if I need two modules for two channels, they turn out almost equally as expensive as Hypex modules. Therefor I'll probably go with Hypex.
col, you are right about the cracks. I also reversed input and output on one leg of the toroid. It changed nothing. I had to remove a half winding on each of the pins so that they are long enough to reach through the holes. This matters not, does it?
My speakers are 4 Ohm and you are right about the volume thing, but I'm a bit afraid of ruining my speakers, because I like them loud.
col, you are right about the cracks. I also reversed input and output on one leg of the toroid. It changed nothing.
I had to remove a half winding on each of the pins so that they are long enough to reach through the holes. This matters not, does it?My speakers are 4 Ohm and you are right about the volume thing, but I'm a bit afraid of ruining my speakers, because I like them loud.
Col, your amp arrived yesterday, i did a quick test but i only got one channel to work, one of the untouched channels, the other untouched channel only made clicking sounds, and the two touched channels were quiet. Anyways i dident experience the hiss from the working channel as bad as described, maybe you have very sensitive speakers.
Yeah you don't hear much hiss with insensitive speakers.
With speakers that are sensitive in the high end (tweeter) however, the hiss sticks out like a sore thumb, well, for home listening at least.
I've made of this amp a portable use amp. My permanent system I now use UCD400s which have zero hiss.
With speakers that are sensitive in the high end (tweeter) however, the hiss sticks out like a sore thumb, well, for home listening at least.
I've made of this amp a portable use amp. My permanent system I now use UCD400s which have zero hiss.
Is the hiss on these things really really bad when stock?
I am thinking of getting a couple of 4 channel ones to have a go with active crossovering since they are cheap and have lots of channels on them.
Now, since I wont have the passive crossover attenuating the tweeter, the potential for hiss to be audible is greater.
Otherwise I might get these for the mids/woofers and one of the lesser powered tripath ones for the tweeters.
I am thinking of getting a couple of 4 channel ones to have a go with active crossovering since they are cheap and have lots of channels on them.
Now, since I wont have the passive crossover attenuating the tweeter, the potential for hiss to be audible is greater.
Otherwise I might get these for the mids/woofers and one of the lesser powered tripath ones for the tweeters.
Depending on the sensitivity of your tweeters (and possibly mids) as well as the listening environment, it can be VERY noticeable, or not at all.
I assume this will be for a quiet home listening environment? In that case, you may want to stay away from this amp for the tweeters and mids. For the woofers though, it'll be perfect.
I assume this will be for a quiet home listening environment? In that case, you may want to stay away from this amp for the tweeters and mids. For the woofers though, it'll be perfect.
I have recently assembled 2 four channel amp modules with two of the Meanwell 14.6 amp supplies to use with my PA speakers - 8x15" + 4x12" +4x horn loaded 1" compression drivers tri amped.
The hiss from the compression drivers is fine for party kind of stuff but is pretty in your face when listening to a bit of background music, the comps are rated at 108dB so very sensitive, I haven't tried them with hifi speakers but guess they wouldn't be a bad budget option if your speakers aren't to efficient, like listening to music at medium to loud volume levels and are building on a budget.
The hiss from the compression drivers is fine for party kind of stuff but is pretty in your face when listening to a bit of background music, the comps are rated at 108dB so very sensitive, I haven't tried them with hifi speakers but guess they wouldn't be a bad budget option if your speakers aren't to efficient, like listening to music at medium to loud volume levels and are building on a budget.
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