Super Regulator

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Digital circuits are always a challenge for linear regulators. Even a few inch of wiring sort of isolates the reg from the load for those fast edges.
The best way to handle that is to use good quality local decoupling, as close to the chips as you can get (SMD anyone?) to support the regulator.

Another option would be a shunt reg, IF you can get that close enough to the chips. A shunt an inch away defeats the purpose.

Jan
 
Capacitance is an excellent source of current for amplifiers.
They are quiet, if not microphonic.
They are fast, if selected appropriately.

A capacitor that approaches perfection is the gap between two adjacent layers of a multilayer PCB. Some PCB manufacturers have patented their methods to create these near perfect capacitors.

Digital layout designers use these adjacent layers as their VHF decoupling. Two layer boards do not get close to the capacitances in 8layer to 12layer PCBs.
SMD caps with "designed in locations" of their vias, are the HF decoupling.
Leaded, or smd, electrolytics in strategic locations are the MF decoupling.
All the high speed current ON and current OFF, come from these three sets of "designed decoupling".

The regulator is simply a way to recharge the decoupling after the event/s
Except, where the regulator output is designed onto the current consumer device pins.
 
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Filter cap capacitance?

I see that some are using quite small filter capacitors in CRC configuration before the regulator. I've read about using 2200uF or even 1000uF caps.
I was planning to use two 4700uF capacitors in CRC configuration or maybe even two 10000uF caps in CRC configuration. Would this be OK, or would this just be overkill?

I'm planning to power a B1 from Pass and some other buffer stages / pre amps with it in the near future. Just to see (or hear) which I like best. :)
 
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I see that some are using quite small filter capacitors in CRC configuration before the regulator. I've read about using 2200uF or even 1000uF caps.
I was planning to use two 4700uF capacitors in CRC configuration or maybe even two 10000uF caps in CRC configuration. Would this be OK, or would this just be overkill?

I'm planning to power a B1 from Pass and some other buffer stages / pre amps with it in the near future. Just to see (or hear) which I like best. :)

I am using two 2,200 uf caps per rail. I don't think 4,700uf is too much. I've seen a lot of preamps with 20,000+uf per rail. I think it's more dependent on the load and circuit you are using. Maybe Jan will have better info about the particulars of the super reg. But the caps on the reg are not meant to be a capacitor bank...I think you should have some caps before the reg.

I've read that the Pass B1 is not really that power supply dependent...sounds good with anything, even switch mode PSUs. I think the best regulator for one application is not always the best for another...but I am enjoying the super reg in my Pass Ba-3 preamp.
 
AX tech editor
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I am using two 2,200 uf caps per rail. I don't think 4,700uf is too much. I've seen a lot of preamps with 20,000+uf per rail. I think it's more dependent on the load and circuit you are using. Maybe Jan will have better info about the particulars of the super reg. But the caps on the reg are not meant to be a capacitor bank...I think you should have some caps before the reg.

I've read that the Pass B1 is not really that power supply dependent...sounds good with anything, even switch mode PSUs. I think the best regulator for one application is not always the best for another...but I am enjoying the super reg in my Pass Ba-3 preamp.

Intuitively one would think that more capacitance gives less ripple amplitude, which is true, but there's another factor. If the cap increases, the current pulses from the rectifier to charge them also get larger and narrower. meaning they contain more and more high frequency components. You can see that on a scope: the ripple gets more and more sharp corners, with lower capacitance the corners are more rounded.

Those higher harmonic components may get into your circuit through several ways, so its better not to overdo it. That said, its not easy to give a clear advice, but in my experience anything above 10,000uF is wasted money for a pre-amp type supply and may actually degrade overall performance. And it is better to use 2 x 5,000uF with a resistor between, than a single 10,000uF.

Jan
 
The general guidance for a long time has been:
use 2200uF for each ampere of current.

If you know the circuit uses a quiescent current of 50mA and a peak transient current of 250mA then you can either:
a.) use 0.05*2200uF to suit the quiescent current, i.e. 110uF (100uF, or 120uF, or 150uF)
or
b.) use 0.25*2200uF to suit the peak transient current, i.e. 550uF (470uF, or 1mF)
This would be after a regulator if used.

If a CRC was being used instead of a regulator then I would use the b.) option after the R.
Before the R, the maximum I would use would be 50% of the second C.
But much smaller is probably OK, I would be very tempted to use the quiescent current capacitance value as a guide. i.e. 100uF to 150uF.

So the CRC ends up being: 150uF : R : 1mF, (R would be determined by acceptable voltage drop and desired RC time constant for effective filtering).

If you want, you can now tack a super regulator on the output of that CRC.
But you still need the transient peak current capacitor supply AFTER the regulator. And some of this will be MF and HF decoupling right at the main current consuming devices.
 
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idle current draw

I tried to find the answer in all the articles and the thread, but I did not succeed in it. So here's another question:

What is the idle current draw of the regulator? I want to calculate the resistor value for the CRC. I know what the B1's current draw is, but I still need to know the current draw of the reg.

The B1 uses bl grade k170 jFETs.
It's continuous current draw should never exceed 12mA per channel, i.e. 24mA for stereo.

But one should add on a margin for transient changes in output current, say 3mA /channel

This takes the B1 to an absolute maximum of 30mApk from 18Vdc to 20Vdc.
 
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Joined 2011
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The equation to use is
  • Vref = Vout * {1 / [1 + (Rupper/Rlower)]}
Plug in your value of Vref, your desired value of Vout (which appears to be 22.0 volts?) and solve for the ratio (Rupper/Rlower)

The advantage of describing it this way is, it applies to ALL Super Regulator schematics, regardless of the component labels applied to the resistors, zener diodes, IC voltage references, and so forth.
 
The Vout is set by the two resistors that feed the inverting input of the opamp, don't remember the exact reference # right now.

Say you want 18V out. The bottom resistor has the same voltage as the LM329 reference (6.9V) because the inv and non-inv opamp inputs will be at the same voltage.
Then size the top resistor for the remaining 18-6.9=11.1V.
So if the bottom resistor is 1k with 6.9V, the top resistor needs to be 11.1/6.9 times 1k, around 1.6k. Similar for 20V vout, top resistor must be 13.1/6.9*1k= 1.9k.
Makes sense?

So, 2.5K seems like it would give me 24V out. And the AD817 is good up to 40V I think.

Found this some pages back!

Thanks for explaining.
 
Thank you Jan. I get it. This is great info, you probably spelled it out before in your article but for novice builders like me this is great info. A lot of us are building stuff "paint by numbers" style and trying to learn along the way. This is a big help.

For me, the math is easier if we just keep R7/R14 at 1K and adjust R6/R13 to get the right ratio that will allow us to hit the target output voltage.

Target output Voltage - 6.9V (this is the LM329 value) = "X"
"X"/6.9 = "Z"
"Z" multiplied by R7 or R14 value = R6/R13 value

Here are some examples keeping the R7/R14 resistor at 1K and the LM329 value (6.9V), like you said...common resistors values can be used instead to get slightly different voltages other than "exactly" 24V or whatever you are shooting for:
-----------------
24V
24 volts - 6.9 = 17.1V
17.1V/6.9 = 2.478
2.478 times 1K = 2.47K!

R7/R14 = 1K
R6/R13 = 2.47K
-----------------
18V
R7/R14 = 1K
R6/R13 = 1.61K
-----------------
12V
R7/R14 = 1K
R6/R13 = 740R

Check it out