10W ceramic resistor is fine as well. It's just a measure on how much thermal load it can bear. 5W is usually the minimum, but you are absolutely fine with 10W as well, it can just take more current through it. If they have air core coils, they are also fine. Usually a couple euros more expensive though.
The baffle width is the total width of the baffle. On the circle with 20cm diameter, baffle width is 20cm. The driver size doesn't have to do with the calculation. If you put 20cm as the width of baffle and Re & Le from PS95 datasheet, you arrive at the same values. I put the resistor as 3.3 ohm as it is a standard component value (easily available) and the coil has some resistance as well. You can read it from the coils data page. The one I used as an example had a resistance of 0.4 ohms which I added to the resistors 2.9 ohm rating from the calculator. I don't think you need to worry about the zobel. The PS95 doesn't have much of a rising impedance and if I'm correct you're not going to use some very low-power tube amplifiers with these. So no need to worry about the Zobel circuit, the coil and resistor is enough.
The BSC components themselves aren't very large, you can easily fit them inside the cabinets through the driver hole. It is very much possible that you first finish the speakers with the PS95 and add the BSC parts when they arrive. Waiting is frustrating, I'm currently waiting on some opamps from China to complete a crossover design
And no problem on the help. I know I did some mistakes on my project with the IKEA spheres a couple year ago, so I'll just try to give some input so you don't have to repeat them.
PS. If you want to hear how it will sound with and without BSC just drop the levels on everything under ~500-600Hz frequency area with 3db on the equalizer on your computer or music player. I bet you can hear a difference
The baffle width is the total width of the baffle. On the circle with 20cm diameter, baffle width is 20cm. The driver size doesn't have to do with the calculation. If you put 20cm as the width of baffle and Re & Le from PS95 datasheet, you arrive at the same values. I put the resistor as 3.3 ohm as it is a standard component value (easily available) and the coil has some resistance as well. You can read it from the coils data page. The one I used as an example had a resistance of 0.4 ohms which I added to the resistors 2.9 ohm rating from the calculator. I don't think you need to worry about the zobel. The PS95 doesn't have much of a rising impedance and if I'm correct you're not going to use some very low-power tube amplifiers with these. So no need to worry about the Zobel circuit, the coil and resistor is enough.
The BSC components themselves aren't very large, you can easily fit them inside the cabinets through the driver hole. It is very much possible that you first finish the speakers with the PS95 and add the BSC parts when they arrive. Waiting is frustrating, I'm currently waiting on some opamps from China to complete a crossover design
And no problem on the help. I know I did some mistakes on my project with the IKEA spheres a couple year ago, so I'll just try to give some input so you don't have to repeat them.PS. If you want to hear how it will sound with and without BSC just drop the levels on everything under ~500-600Hz frequency area with 3db on the equalizer on your computer or music player. I bet you can hear a difference
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I think I'm gonna go for the PS95, but I still have one consern. It's only 10W, isn't this low?
How much x.x% is the chance that I blow this speaker? I read that it has more to do with the quality of the stream from the amp then only "the numbers". But I can't shake the feeling it's low (although the graph shows that it's going to be louder then the others). So how manny speakers have you guy's blown or what is the minimum of Watt you use for your drivers.
Now a few post back you said that I better not mix speakers, what if I would pick the RS100 and use 4 of those and only for the center speaker (different design, more of a box instead of a bowl) another tweeter or high range speaker. Or would I really have to use 5 of the same drivers (eg. RS100), or would I really have to design 5 speakers with RS100 and tweeter in the same bowl (or same stand).
This is the receiver/amp I'm gonna buy
http://www.eu.onkyo.com/downloads/1/1/9/8/0/ONKYO_TX-NR609_datasheet_EN.pdf
Ahh I thought it was only the remaining distance from speaker to edge for the baffle (because I read that this creates a higher WAF). Well if somebody also gets it into his head to build an ikea speaker, this thread is also starting to fill up with good info.
For the BSC components, I'm gonna order it from the electricity store as waiting on them is max 1week (Brand visaton). With the driver seller it's gonna take 2-3 weeks (brand dayton audio) but then I have to wait for the complete order or pay 2x shipping cost.
I will report back if I hear a difference in the end, or I'm gonna pay a visit to the hospital ;-)
How much x.x% is the chance that I blow this speaker? I read that it has more to do with the quality of the stream from the amp then only "the numbers". But I can't shake the feeling it's low (although the graph shows that it's going to be louder then the others). So how manny speakers have you guy's blown or what is the minimum of Watt you use for your drivers.
Now a few post back you said that I better not mix speakers, what if I would pick the RS100 and use 4 of those and only for the center speaker (different design, more of a box instead of a bowl) another tweeter or high range speaker. Or would I really have to use 5 of the same drivers (eg. RS100), or would I really have to design 5 speakers with RS100 and tweeter in the same bowl (or same stand).
This is the receiver/amp I'm gonna buy
http://www.eu.onkyo.com/downloads/1/1/9/8/0/ONKYO_TX-NR609_datasheet_EN.pdf
Ahh I thought it was only the remaining distance from speaker to edge for the baffle (because I read that this creates a higher WAF). Well if somebody also gets it into his head to build an ikea speaker, this thread is also starting to fill up with good info.
For the BSC components, I'm gonna order it from the electricity store as waiting on them is max 1week (Brand visaton). With the driver seller it's gonna take 2-3 weeks (brand dayton audio) but then I have to wait for the complete order or pay 2x shipping cost.
I will report back if I hear a difference in the end, or I'm gonna pay a visit to the hospital ;-)
10w is plenty unless you run it as a PA speaker or use them at a nightclub. With a sealed enclosure, there's very little risk of blowing the speaker. The driver is pressuring the air inside, which basically works as a spring. The more the cone moves, the harder the spring is. It's very hard to bottom the speaker out. I personally have never blown a speaker.
The need of watts is very very low with these as they don't have to produce deep bass. If you look at speaker parameters, efficiency is measured in dB/ 1 Watt. 85dB is the amount from where you should use hearing protection in a workplace environment
The need of watts is very very low with these as they don't have to produce deep bass. If you look at speaker parameters, efficiency is measured in dB/ 1 Watt. 85dB is the amount from where you should use hearing protection in a workplace environment
I think something went wrong when I first did the PS95 because I just had to check another driver (Markaudio Pluvia 7) and did a comparison, but this was done on another pc so I had to re-download the programs re-input the values and the graphs for the ps95 changed.
Winisd:
Markaudio Pluvia gives me -3db 100Hz
Dayton Audio PS95 gives me -3db 124Hz
I get the same humb as I first did with the CHR70, so now the PS95 and the Pluvia have them. So as they all have that humb, was that the reason why you didn't like the sound?
Now the reason I just had to check this Pluvia is because I was reading up on the chr70 and read a few times that this one was giving a better sound (or a more pleasing sound). Plus it has a higher usable frequency range, so for a TV entertainment setup that would be good.
Would you think this could be better for the blanda matt bowls instead of the chr70 and would this be a nice upgrade from the ps95? I like the thinner frame, colour is also good with my design.
Winisd:
Markaudio Pluvia gives me -3db 100Hz
Dayton Audio PS95 gives me -3db 124Hz
I get the same humb as I first did with the CHR70, so now the PS95 and the Pluvia have them. So as they all have that humb, was that the reason why you didn't like the sound?
Now the reason I just had to check this Pluvia is because I was reading up on the chr70 and read a few times that this one was giving a better sound (or a more pleasing sound). Plus it has a higher usable frequency range, so for a TV entertainment setup that would be good.
Would you think this could be better for the blanda matt bowls instead of the chr70 and would this be a nice upgrade from the ps95? I like the thinner frame, colour is also good with my design.
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Yeah it would be better than either the PS95 or CHR-70. If you are interested in them, give them a go Sealed enclosure works well with a lot of drivers. Keep in mind that simply due to the size you can't get deep bass out of any driver in this enclosure.
Also remember to adjust the BSC values with the calculator.
Sealed enclosure works well with a lot of drivers. Keep in mind that simply due to the size you can't get deep bass out of any driver in this enclosure.Also remember to adjust the BSC values with the calculator.
Well I think I have a winner for my project ;-)
The only problem is getting the drivers in Europe, I have contacted 5 webshops and none have the driver in stock. One shop in Germany could tell me he would receive his shipment in about 6-8 weeks. So I would have to put this project on hold, which I find strange because the driver has existed since december 2015.
Ordering it from madisoundspeakerstore is not really an option because then I would have to pay €50 shipping and probably customs/tax at my country. They sell it for $45.00, but is this per piece or pair? Because in Europe they only sell per pair, so if that would be for a pair that would be really cheap. As I would have to pay €119 for a pair from the shop in Germany.
User aznowicz apparently made a set with the PS95, but haven't received a PM back about it.
Well right now the 2.1 on my pc has his frequency with the sub at 180Hz so going to 100Hz with these is gonna be an improvement and there is still gonna be a sub to go along with them.
Just gonna have to check if building or buying a sub would be best, because those amp plates alone cost more then I like and the "mivoc am 80" is rated 80 Watt R 0.00 yrd (. M) .S./150 watts max at 4 ohms so could I even use it because of the 4ohms? Or there alternatives like those pcb plates from ebay and stuff? Because the amp plate from dayton audio is €200 alone.
I'm gonna check if I can simulate those BSC values in Boxsim, they have an option for simulating crossovers so that would be possible to check with one driver also.
The only problem is getting the drivers in Europe, I have contacted 5 webshops and none have the driver in stock. One shop in Germany could tell me he would receive his shipment in about 6-8 weeks. So I would have to put this project on hold, which I find strange because the driver has existed since december 2015.
Ordering it from madisoundspeakerstore is not really an option because then I would have to pay €50 shipping and probably customs/tax at my country. They sell it for $45.00, but is this per piece or pair? Because in Europe they only sell per pair, so if that would be for a pair that would be really cheap. As I would have to pay €119 for a pair from the shop in Germany.
User aznowicz apparently made a set with the PS95, but haven't received a PM back about it.
Well right now the 2.1 on my pc has his frequency with the sub at 180Hz so going to 100Hz with these is gonna be an improvement and there is still gonna be a sub to go along with them.
Just gonna have to check if building or buying a sub would be best, because those amp plates alone cost more then I like and the "mivoc am 80" is rated 80 Watt R 0.00 yrd (. M) .S./150 watts max at 4 ohms so could I even use it because of the 4ohms? Or there alternatives like those pcb plates from ebay and stuff? Because the amp plate from dayton audio is €200 alone.
I'm gonna check if I can simulate those BSC values in Boxsim, they have an option for simulating crossovers so that would be possible to check with one driver also.
Yeah, it's hard to find certain drivers in Europe that are abundant in US. Same goes vice versa. Madisound sells per driver as far as I know. It is a lot more expensive than the PS95 still, as you'd have to order 3 pairs of them to make 5 speaker set and then deal with 1 extra driver. If I was you, I'd still go for the PS95 even though the Pluvia is better simply due to the driver costs skyrocketing.
I recommend that you give second-hand subwoofers a go. If you are having a hard time finding a good plate amp for the price, you could keep an eye out for local ads or national ebay equivalents on used gear. At least in Finland one can easily find a good used subwoofer for the price of a new plate amplifier.
On the mivoc plate amp, it is rated 80W on 8 ohms and 150W on 4 ohms, ie. it gives more power to lower output impedance. Same goes for all other amplifiers, it's just physics. The chinese sellers that carry cheap amplifiers etc. don't really go for subwoofer plate amps.
I recommend that you give second-hand subwoofers a go. If you are having a hard time finding a good plate amp for the price, you could keep an eye out for local ads or national ebay equivalents on used gear. At least in Finland one can easily find a good used subwoofer for the price of a new plate amplifier.
On the mivoc plate amp, it is rated 80W on 8 ohms and 150W on 4 ohms, ie. it gives more power to lower output impedance. Same goes for all other amplifiers, it's just physics. The chinese sellers that carry cheap amplifiers etc. don't really go for subwoofer plate amps.
Well I'm having a dilema on one side I want to do it once and do it right, if the drivers were 90€ so 1$-1€ then I wouldn't mind having one extra driver (But €119 for a pair). On the other side going with the PS95 feels like a downgrade now, even though I don't know if I would hear the difference ;-).
Because how much better is that Pluvia? Am I going to be blown away by it sound and clearity, or is it like "meh" its a little better then the PS95 but not crazy stuff good. Because the Dayton audio are "parts-express" house brand and does get good reviews LINK and I heard this example of it ZIP File, but that's a recording with a microphone and played on my speakers (so how is that a representation about those speakers)
Could you tell me what it was that you didn't like about the sound in your CHR70? Because they give me the lowest Hz of all 3
Because with my build I would spent around these amounts on the total package.
PS95: €370
CHR70: €450
Pluvia: €610
Because how much better is that Pluvia? Am I going to be blown away by it sound and clearity, or is it like "meh" its a little better then the PS95 but not crazy stuff good. Because the Dayton audio are "parts-express" house brand and does get good reviews LINK and I heard this example of it ZIP File, but that's a recording with a microphone and played on my speakers (so how is that a representation about those speakers)
Could you tell me what it was that you didn't like about the sound in your CHR70? Because they give me the lowest Hz of all 3
Because with my build I would spent around these amounts on the total package.
PS95: €370
CHR70: €450
Pluvia: €610
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Yeah the more I thought about it these past day's, the more I came to realize I would be overspending as I would never get the full potential off the Markaudio drivers in my enclosure.
I'm gonna make a phone call to see which shop has them on stock and then place my order of the PS95. I'm really curious about seeing these in person.
I'm gonna make a phone call to see which shop has them on stock and then place my order of the PS95. I'm really curious about seeing these in person.
Looks much better now
By rightclick on the components you can highlight them for the automatic optimization.
This can be found in the menu Extras ,afaik.
You can choose directly from a menu the fitting values of real existing components with information about ESR. The simulation becomes more realistic.
By rightclick on the components you can highlight them for the automatic optimization.
This can be found in the menu Extras ,afaik.
You can choose directly from a menu the fitting values of real existing components with information about ESR. The simulation becomes more realistic.
Allright I received my delivery and couldn't wait, so I reworked my testbuild so these babies would fit.
I gotta say that these drivers are even better in person then on a photo on the internet. Damm these are gorgeous!
As for sound: This is without the components for the baffle step (I'm waiting on that delivery) I'm loving it ;-) right now I don't even care what's on the TV as long as I get sound from these I'm sitting here with a Joker smile ;-). So yeah this project just became fun again.
As I have a vacation comming up soon, that's the time I will try and build these 5 speakers. This is the design for 2 front's and 2 backs, the center speaker is gonna have a rectangular design for easier placement.
@S4m: Do you know why there is such a wavy line with dips and peaks in Boxsim?
I gotta say that these drivers are even better in person then on a photo on the internet. Damm these are gorgeous!
As for sound: This is without the components for the baffle step (I'm waiting on that delivery) I'm loving it ;-) right now I don't even care what's on the TV as long as I get sound from these I'm sitting here with a Joker smile ;-). So yeah this project just became fun again.
As I have a vacation comming up soon, that's the time I will try and build these 5 speakers. This is the design for 2 front's and 2 backs, the center speaker is gonna have a rectangular design for easier placement.
@S4m: Do you know why there is such a wavy line with dips and peaks in Boxsim?
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Well maybe after a while these will sound "normal" to me, but right now I can attest that these just blow my old Creative 5.1 set out of the water. Even that JBL 2.1 system that I have hoocked up on my PC at home doesn't give this nice sound.
Right now they are back unplugged, because I'm waiting on my Onkyo receiver and for this test they were connected to the old Creative "amp". But as these are just new drivers I don't want to damage them by using that old "basic amp".
I do know that I will have to recess them into the bowl like the one from the TV stand, because having them sit on top of the bowls do not do them justice.
@PeteMcK: Thanks for the compliment, it's nice to hear... ;-)
At first the design was to have them attacht at the walls like the speakers from "Elipson". Then I changed to a 2 piece black iron pole (so I could always adjust the height of the speakers). Then I was looking at gardening poles and eventuelly I was checking out crowbars, and shovel poles and then the curves and height from the axe was perfect (so I went with that and I like it). I don't know right now, but because I have a channel in the back for the speaker cable I could create a led strip for some adational low light (But maybe that's just killing it)
Ps: So I may have found another project in some time and create a new set of speakers for my PC after this ;-) Something like those Diapason Adamantes, I like those fronts (But not that big).
Right now they are back unplugged, because I'm waiting on my Onkyo receiver and for this test they were connected to the old Creative "amp". But as these are just new drivers I don't want to damage them by using that old "basic amp".
I do know that I will have to recess them into the bowl like the one from the TV stand, because having them sit on top of the bowls do not do them justice.
@PeteMcK: Thanks for the compliment, it's nice to hear... ;-)
At first the design was to have them attacht at the walls like the speakers from "Elipson". Then I changed to a 2 piece black iron pole (so I could always adjust the height of the speakers). Then I was looking at gardening poles and eventuelly I was checking out crowbars, and shovel poles and then the curves and height from the axe was perfect (so I went with that and I like it). I don't know right now, but because I have a channel in the back for the speaker cable I could create a led strip for some adational low light (But maybe that's just killing it)
Ps: So I may have found another project in some time and create a new set of speakers for my PC after this ;-) Something like those Diapason Adamantes, I like those fronts (But not that big).
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