Do you know where I could see more info on this? I'd hate to plunk down for a 2x8 and then a month later a newer model comes out
MiniDSP 4x10HD and many other models accept digital in now up to 96kHz/24bit - 2 inputs either coax or optical. Also supports AES/EBU and balanced in/out. I feed it analog in because I use my AV receiver as input mixer!
Dip switches are inside for setting in/out sensitivitity/level Output can bet set separately for each channel.
The website and forum don't give any clue of upcoming products. The nanodigi line is the latest and it doesn't accept analog at all.
miniDSP 4x10 Hd | MiniDSP Manual
Dip switches are inside for setting in/out sensitivitity/level Output can bet set separately for each channel.
The website and forum don't give any clue of upcoming products. The nanodigi line is the latest and it doesn't accept analog at all.
miniDSP 4x10 Hd | MiniDSP Manual
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Do you know where I could see more info on this? I'd hate to plunk down for a 2x8 and then a month later a newer model comes out
This interview may give some info.(new products like Sharc)
http://www.hifizine.com/2012/11/interview-with-tony-rouget-of-minidsp/
I heard that a new model of NanoDsp is coming out where the outputs are not SPDIF but rather I2S where you could interface directly to DACs with I2S interface e.g. ES9018 which is cheap!!
The Sharc looks interesting, I'll have to look into something like that. The only issue I can see with doing DIY DAC units would be having to build 3 or 4 of them I guess. They're cheap enough to not worry about if I ever go that route.
An idea I had last night (which I haven't tried nor seen tried, unless I've missed it) for the low woofer, how do you guys suspect a thin sealed cabinet with woofers mounted magnet to magnet, push-push would work?
An idea I had last night (which I haven't tried nor seen tried, unless I've missed it) for the low woofer, how do you guys suspect a thin sealed cabinet with woofers mounted magnet to magnet, push-push would work?
You can measure dozens of different curves for exactly the same loudspeaker - so again: How did you measure?
Distance to microphone?
Horizontal angle to speaker?
With gating/smoothing or without?
Including reflections/reverberation?
Distance of dipoles from nearest room walls?
From what I see you are missing the lowest octace 30-60 Hz for the most part. This will already contribute significantly to bass shyness.
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I think that DrDyna must use subwoofer(s) too! They add a nice bottom, but are very difficult to match. The other option is to use severals 15" or 18" dipole subs in H frames - but do you have a big enough room?
The valley of 200-400Hz might contain floor or frontwall cancellations but otherwise it can be eq'd easily. A little shorter IR window and less smoothing can reveal cancellations.
Otherwise looking good! Check at least 30, 60 and 90¤ sideways too! Phase matching with inverted mid? Adjust with delays!
The valley of 200-400Hz might contain floor or frontwall cancellations but otherwise it can be eq'd easily. A little shorter IR window and less smoothing can reveal cancellations.
Otherwise looking good! Check at least 30, 60 and 90¤ sideways too! Phase matching with inverted mid? Adjust with delays!
I was thinking that too, I'm tinkering with eq settings at the moment...it seems better, but it still has this weirdness to it...its almost like ...someone talking into a traffic cone if that makes any sense...and audyssey seems to make it worse.
I bet that once I get whichever processor I'm going to get that let's me manipulate all 6 channels it'll get easier to fix.
Hm, I hadn't considered tinkering with delay instead, excellent idea.
Right now I'm just trying to get it listenable before I convince myself I'm gonna keep them and get a piece of nice wood to use as a baffle. Once I'm thoroughly convinced these baffles won't end up in my growing heap of disused speaker cabinets, I'll go ahead and order whichever processor so I can do all 6 channels instead of just 4...I'm sure my passive woofer filter isn't helping matters.
"someone talking into a traffic cone "
aha - sounds like a W/M phase problem! Try to make an overlay like this
- set IR to 6 or 9ms and smoothing to 1/12 or 1/48 (in REW Preferences/Analysis options)
- measure each driver individually
- measure normal system
- measure system with the mid driver inverted phase
- make an overlay of these
Then adjust delay and check what happens to cancellations. You must decide which driver has least delay (one that is most far away) When cancellations are peaking, do "normal system" again! If delays are ok, a LR2 topology should have inverted phase and LR4 same phase. (This is difficult/impossible if curves are asymmetrical or atypical)
aha - sounds like a W/M phase problem! Try to make an overlay like this
- set IR to 6 or 9ms and smoothing to 1/12 or 1/48 (in REW Preferences/Analysis options)
- measure each driver individually
- measure normal system
- measure system with the mid driver inverted phase
- make an overlay of these
Then adjust delay and check what happens to cancellations. You must decide which driver has least delay (one that is most far away) When cancellations are peaking, do "normal system" again! If delays are ok, a LR2 topology should have inverted phase and LR4 same phase. (This is difficult/impossible if curves are asymmetrical or atypical)
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Yep...I'm debating on if I want to try and fuss with it right now or wait till I have a DSP channel for the woofers.
Initial stages of planning the permanent baffle...it's gonna be big I think....looks like one of the big magnepans when I imagine it in my head.
Now I'm trying to imagine how I want the CTC spacing, since it can be pretty much anything on a huge baffle...right now my xo points are 350 hz and 2300 hz, but I'm not sure if I'm going to keep them there.
I know there's a general rule of thumb for CTC spacing, but I don't have a page bookmarked that explains it, if anyone has a link they could share that'd be aweeeesommeee!
Sometimes I forget that I can Google this sh** myself, lol.
Now I'm trying to imagine how I want the CTC spacing, since it can be pretty much anything on a huge baffle...right now my xo points are 350 hz and 2300 hz, but I'm not sure if I'm going to keep them there.
I know there's a general rule of thumb for CTC spacing, but I don't have a page bookmarked that explains it, if anyone has a link they could share that'd be aweeeesommeee!
Sometimes I forget that I can Google this sh** myself, lol.
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"someone talking into a traffic cone "
aha - sounds like a W/M phase problem! Try to make an overlay like this
- set IR to 6 or 9ms and smoothing to 1/12 or 1/48 (in REW Preferences/Analysis options)
- measure each driver individually
- measure normal system
- measure system with the mid driver inverted phase
- make an overlay of these
Then adjust delay and check what happens to cancellations. You must decide which driver has least delay (one that is most far away) When cancellations are peaking, do "normal system" again! If delays are ok, a LR2 topology should have inverted phase and LR4 same phase. (This is difficult/impossible if curves are asymmetrical or atypical)
Thanks very much for this, I'll give it a shot once the real baffle is done and my other minidsp gets here.
That can work well but you might go a little narrower. At the lowest frequencies, the longest dimension is what counts. The more it is like a square, the worse are the frequency response oscillations (from the OB loading) and if you make the baffle more elongated (e.g. less like a square and more like a tall rectangle) the amplitude of the oscillations is reduced.
You can model these effects using programs like The Edge or the Baffle Diffraction Simulator.
-Charlie
Read Linkwitz, read Kreskovsky, read Martin J King - and look at the dipoles they build. You may even read my thoughts about that topic (download the How open baffles work pdf).
Then look at the dipole speakers those people build. How many 24x72 walls do you see?
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I'll take a look at some of those. I ask because sometimes its hard to know if form is following function or vice versa. I looked at quite a few designs and it seems like WAF is always a factor...where in my case, if the best baffle is the most horrible, anti-martha stewart looking thing then that's what I'm going to build.
After reading open baffles 1.PDF, I've gathered that the best solution as far as I can tell, with the drivers I have would be a baffle only barely larger than the woofers, with the mid and tweeter pretty much in free space.
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