I hadn't considered the glass as leaded, but that certainly makes sense.
I don't even remember what the numbers were, nor the plug ins.. The only thing I remember from back then were the pulse sources, a Tek 109 and the HP 214B (IIRC).
You're right, so I'm not sure why it was considered as the worst source. I remember it accurately, but do not recall where I read it. Guess I''ll try google.
edit: yah, wiki does mention hv rectifier tubes and regulator tubes as the bigger sources, but because the crt has lead.
jn
Last edited:
That would include a return path, the described effect was due to the R/C charge pulse of ~.4 joule.
I have given a Tek CRT a return path with full hand on CRT and elbow to the chassis contact, knocked to the floor out cold.
Last edited:
we are not allowed to touch the Supplier's side.
That is everything before the Distribution Board (DB).
I don't think that an approved electrician is even allowed to tamper with ANY cabling before the Distribution Board and that includes the tie in from Meter to DB.
Last edited:
Ah, ok. I believe electricians here can run from the load panel to the meter, then up to the feed from the street, but the power company has to bug nut the final connection.
jn
Sorry but I'm not a fan of revisionist history. Editing your comments to remove TVRgeek's comment THEN implying that I'm using a double standard by saying that JB is a scam artist by selling those Bybee devices is being really silly. By the way my offer still stands about you testing those devices to prove that they aren't snake oil but then I highly doubt you will ever do so.
Here is your irony. My cheap Berhringer crossover failed, so I decided to re-do my living room. Eliminate the TV and move everything close. I fixed the broken connector in the Rotel 1055 AVR so it now has sub-out. With only 18" RCA'a to my two HCA 1200's, BUZZ! I did not have it before using my 40' cheater balanced lines ( RCA to balanced), feeding the crossover, feeding the amps. That should keep me busy today. Either that, I whine a while about how old everything is, how re-capping is so expensive, building a cross-over, ading real balanced inputs and outputs, etc. and get the excuse for a Halo P5, A23 with a pair of Outlaws for the subs. Not sure I can pull that off, but worth a try 
Trouble shooting completed. The main issue internal to the old Rotel 1055. But, now the real bummer. I guess it is just age and I have not had my ear in front of the HCA's for so long, but they are just plain noisy. Very old, so a recap is in order. I'll put in a balanced input while I am at it. Wife wants to keep the second TV, so what I will use for a preamp is back in question. Maranz maybe. The Audessy us totally useless, but the rest of it works quite well. It is about the only AV preamp with balanced outputs one can afford. Denon actually has one in their pro line, but the specs are terrible. That does not make sense, but so be it.
SY has done the basics. Would you really ask some one to test the "Maxwell's Demon" claims?
I did no such editing. Editing here is limited to 15 minutes after initial. (except it now is allowing an edit 26 minutes after initial, Mod: did the policy change?)
What offer are you talking about.
Why are my responses to you disappearing? Are you requesting such of a moderator? edit:added this: If so, I've only stated what you claimed is not an insult.
jn
Last edited:
On the original subject, as a systems approach cost-value assessment:
For a 50 foot run, balanced lines means at least one, preferably both ends with correct balanced drivers and receivers, cable etc. The flip side is to run 50 feet instead of 10 feet of correct speaker cable. In reality, separating sub from mains, how much damage is the extra 30 feet of cable leaving you open to compared to extra low voltage stages in a typical "decent" level HT setup? Is the large difference in cost better applied to the true weakest link, the speakers?
For a 50 foot run, balanced lines means at least one, preferably both ends with correct balanced drivers and receivers, cable etc. The flip side is to run 50 feet instead of 10 feet of correct speaker cable. In reality, separating sub from mains, how much damage is the extra 30 feet of cable leaving you open to compared to extra low voltage stages in a typical "decent" level HT setup? Is the large difference in cost better applied to the true weakest link, the speakers?
For subs, I'd always recommend either battery jumper cables for 20 or 30 foot runs, or a true differential balanced run to an active sub. I hear so many stories about sub hum caused by the ground loop when the sub is plugged into a different outlet in the room.
If I/O were all true balanced, I'd always go with short speaker runs, long IC's.
jn
Absolutely. Let me rephrase the question: In a living room, generic but decent widely available equipment, pick a Marantz 7008 as a typical receiver, and some generic sub amp with 50 foot cables but co-located electronics so all powered by the same buss strip, short RCA's, no bad ground loop problems. (we agree on "proper" cables so moving on)
Moving to balanced long interconnects has a pretty high cost premium. The cheapest balanced av preamp is the Marantz at about $1600. Most are several times that. Pick their amps just for an example as I picked their AVR, plus something to drive the sub. Going balanced is at least grand or more expensive than keeping the electronics together on one side of the room in an AVR and running long speaker cables.
So, is that money better spent elsewhere, like on speakers as they are never good enough, or after you have, oh pick something decent like Vandersteen's or Theil's for main speakers, is the money better spent on electronics?
I already run the long balanced interconnects, so this was not a question of what I should do. I was trying to get back to the OP's original question.
Moving to balanced long interconnects has a pretty high cost premium. The cheapest balanced av preamp is the Marantz at about $1600. Most are several times that. Pick their amps just for an example as I picked their AVR, plus something to drive the sub. Going balanced is at least grand or more expensive than keeping the electronics together on one side of the room in an AVR and running long speaker cables.
So, is that money better spent elsewhere, like on speakers as they are never good enough, or after you have, oh pick something decent like Vandersteen's or Theil's for main speakers, is the money better spent on electronics?
I already run the long balanced interconnects, so this was not a question of what I should do. I was trying to get back to the OP's original question.
Good experience, I too like the nice tough flexible neoprene rubber cord, but not answering the question.
In a real system, for reasonable folks, in a average nice room. where does one spend the money? I am biased as loudspeakers are my main hobby and I don't believe any speaker is worthy of the even the average amplifier out there. Really, what does one actually loose with 40 or 50 feet of cable?
In a real system, for reasonable folks, in a average nice room. where does one spend the money? I am biased as loudspeakers are my main hobby and I don't believe any speaker is worthy of the even the average amplifier out there. Really, what does one actually loose with 40 or 50 feet of cable?
What impedance speaker?
2Ohm requires heavier cable than 8 ohm or 16 ohm.
How much power?
32mW typical and 1W peak like seen with my Klipsch Heresy (96dB/W-M) speakers for normal listening level at home, allows me to get by with much smaller gauge wire than speakers with less efficiency at higher output levels would allow without noticeable loss.
2Ohm requires heavier cable than 8 ohm or 16 ohm.
How much power?
32mW typical and 1W peak like seen with my Klipsch Heresy (96dB/W-M) speakers for normal listening level at home, allows me to get by with much smaller gauge wire than speakers with less efficiency at higher output levels would allow without noticeable loss.
Sigh, the answers here are all correct and reasonable, but avoiding the simple question that could be helpful to many readers that I believe the OP was asking. Have we all fallen prey into the Micosoft tech support problem? 100% correct but 100% useless?
Good old Heresy's. I sure do remember them.
I was over at teh big yellow tag store to see what the consumer line is these days. They were pushing the Pioneer Class D receivers. I did not care for their ergonomics, but I may take one home for the weekend to see how far they have progressed. They are picking up Peachtree and Rotel. The Rotel AV preamp looks interesting but I see reviews with terrible software issues, and others with no problems. Buy and try I guess. At least I could use one of my decent tuners with it. Tec ST-7 or one of the Kenwoods. Rotel tuners were always weak. Still, for over two grand, it should have XLR outputs.
I noticed BlueJean has CL-2 Belden cheaper than most discount cable suppliers. I need to pull new cable to my surrounds as it is not currently CL-2 rated. I am trying to make sure my house meets code everywhere.
Good old Heresy's. I sure do remember them.
I was over at teh big yellow tag store to see what the consumer line is these days. They were pushing the Pioneer Class D receivers. I did not care for their ergonomics, but I may take one home for the weekend to see how far they have progressed. They are picking up Peachtree and Rotel. The Rotel AV preamp looks interesting but I see reviews with terrible software issues, and others with no problems. Buy and try I guess. At least I could use one of my decent tuners with it. Tec ST-7 or one of the Kenwoods. Rotel tuners were always weak. Still, for over two grand, it should have XLR outputs.
I noticed BlueJean has CL-2 Belden cheaper than most discount cable suppliers. I need to pull new cable to my surrounds as it is not currently CL-2 rated. I am trying to make sure my house meets code everywhere.
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.