This amp blew channels 3&4 again. I had to order more outputs for it so I'll post back when I get it back up on the bench.
Notes for self and settings for when I put the amp back in place.
Crossover off, 60hz sine wave, volume 15, 2.185vAC
Right channel + is Positive
Left channel + is Negative
Notes for self and settings for when I put the amp back in place.
Crossover off, 60hz sine wave, volume 15, 2.185vAC
Right channel + is Positive
Left channel + is Negative
Last edited:
I got the parts, so I took the cover off of this amp. The bolt holding the defective channel had partially stripped and backed out enough that the outputs seperated from the sync. The reason why the bolt backed out was because some previous repair (way before I got this amp) used the wrong threaded screw. I knew the screw hole was a little miss threaded but the screw was getting tight anyways or so i thought.
Since I dont ever see myself getting rid of this amp, I came up with a great way to hopefully permanently fix the sync issue with this amp. I unded up drilling through the sync and tapping a larger threaded hole for the defective channel and used a longer screw with matching thread. I also found a length of aluminum transistor clamp out of a spare parts amp which already had cardboard glued to one side of the bar. I cut lengths to suite and used screws perfect for the job. Also used a new bottle of sync compound for the re-assembly. The fitment was perfect, and much tighter than anything this amp has been like before.
Now I can tell there is absolutely -no- flexible PCB directly atop of any transistor.
When I put it all back together, I ran the amp on the bench for about 45 minutes a high volume. From what I could tell everything was very stable. Idle bias was good and the current draw didnt seem to have any problems.
I put the amp back hopefully permanently in my car.
Since I dont ever see myself getting rid of this amp, I came up with a great way to hopefully permanently fix the sync issue with this amp. I unded up drilling through the sync and tapping a larger threaded hole for the defective channel and used a longer screw with matching thread. I also found a length of aluminum transistor clamp out of a spare parts amp which already had cardboard glued to one side of the bar. I cut lengths to suite and used screws perfect for the job. Also used a new bottle of sync compound for the re-assembly. The fitment was perfect, and much tighter than anything this amp has been like before.
Now I can tell there is absolutely -no- flexible PCB directly atop of any transistor.
When I put it all back together, I ran the amp on the bench for about 45 minutes a high volume. From what I could tell everything was very stable. Idle bias was good and the current draw didnt seem to have any problems.
I put the amp back hopefully permanently in my car.
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