copper is used for soldering iron tip cores because its the highest economical heat conductor
it is also "soluble" in solder which gives the observed tip erosion - worse at high temps and with some solder formulations
better tips are iron plated to cut erosion - if you wear thru or abrade the iron plating then the tip quickly erodes again when the solder can get at the copper core
temp controlled irons are better because they use iron plated tips and because they can keep the temperature to just at the solder melting temp - unregulated irons get way hotter when just sitting in the cradle
it is also "soluble" in solder which gives the observed tip erosion - worse at high temps and with some solder formulations
better tips are iron plated to cut erosion - if you wear thru or abrade the iron plating then the tip quickly erodes again when the solder can get at the copper core
temp controlled irons are better because they use iron plated tips and because they can keep the temperature to just at the solder melting temp - unregulated irons get way hotter when just sitting in the cradle
I thought a modern long life tip was a bit more advanced
I doubt theres much copper in there
think about it
once you break the suface plating, it over
absolute impossible to solder, nada
if it was copper, that wouldnt happens so abrupt
I dont know if the newer lead free tips are tougher
but they do need proper ROHS documentation
I know because I bought some cheaper, because they didnt have the ROHS
maybe its only the documentation that makes them different, I dont know
I doubt theres much copper in there
think about it
once you break the suface plating, it over
absolute impossible to solder, nada
if it was copper, that wouldnt happens so abrupt
I dont know if the newer lead free tips are tougher
but they do need proper ROHS documentation
I know because I bought some cheaper, because they didnt have the ROHS
maybe its only the documentation that makes them different, I dont know
"Car connections" is not a good example of a low tech application. You might check out SAE-USCAR automotive connector specifications...the motor vehicle environment in terms of temperature, vibration, EMI, reliability and service is one of the most challenging there is. Imagine that the soldered connections you are making are wired to an explosive propellant pointed at the head of tens of millions of drivers and expected to work 20 years from now!
Cheap irons have cheap tips. I remember using a tip made of copper or some other soft metal. Solder (or actually, I think it's the acid from the flux) would eat the tips. I'd file the tip to a point periodically.
However, NEVER file a long-life tip. As others have said, they're plated with a coating that is supposed to resist the acid, hence, last longer. Long life tips don't like to run "dry" though. Keep them tinned and turn the iron off when you aren't using it.
I'm still using the same Weller tip that came with the TCP iron I bought back in 1988. It works fine... But one tip probably costs more than that iron you've got...
~Tom
However, NEVER file a long-life tip. As others have said, they're plated with a coating that is supposed to resist the acid, hence, last longer. Long life tips don't like to run "dry" though. Keep them tinned and turn the iron off when you aren't using it.
I'm still using the same Weller tip that came with the TCP iron I bought back in 1988. It works fine... But one tip probably costs more than that iron you've got...
~Tom
Don't ever, ever use acid flux on electronics. OK maybe for plumbing or sheet metal soldering, but not OK with electronics and circuit boards.
Electronics solder contains a rosin flux.
Electronics solder contains a rosin flux.
The best advice I can give is after the iron has heated up, take a lightly dampened sponge and brush the tip on it until the oxide coating is removed leaving a shiny tip. Then melt solder onto the tip before using it. Leave it on only as long as you need and only as hot as you need.
After use, wipe it down on the sponge and tin the tip AGAIN. Leave the solder on the tip because this will protect the tip from oxidizing. It's quite alright it there is a large glob on the tip.
After use, wipe it down on the sponge and tin the tip AGAIN. Leave the solder on the tip because this will protect the tip from oxidizing. It's quite alright it there is a large glob on the tip.
I won't argue that a temp-controlled iron is far better than a standard iron, but saying they are not suitable for PCB work is not true at all.
As with any tool, it's effectiveness is a direct reflection of a persons ability to use it. I do stuff like the pic below all the time with a $7 iron I picked up in the automotive department at Walmart.....
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Have always used solder with rosin flux core all this while. Couple of months back, decided to get the electronic "flux" paste to apply on my PCB for tinning purposes. The "flux" paste I used ate thru one of my tips in a few sessions. Totally destroyed the long life tip.
The tin of flux paste now lies unused in some box. What a waste, wasn't cheap too.
Now I avoid these flux pastes and just use the solder to tin and clean my tip in combination with a wet sponge/paper towel.
The tin of flux paste now lies unused in some box. What a waste, wasn't cheap too.
Now I avoid these flux pastes and just use the solder to tin and clean my tip in combination with a wet sponge/paper towel.
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