Enuff to firmly contact the magnet, not so much as to stress the basket (similarily, screws/bolts that attach the driver should only be tightened such that they are torques just enuff to hold a real (or imaginary) washer from spinning).
If the brace is a little short, paper or wood slivers (like veneer) can be used as shims.
dave
If the brace is a little short, paper or wood slivers (like veneer) can be used as shims.
dave
They are your speakers, you CAN get away with anything you want. Should is a different story. The chamfers are there for edge diffraction reasons, same as roundovers. IMO symetry is important for quality of looks.
You can use a layer or two of felt between the braces and the rear of the driver for support.
Ron
thanks
I was wondering about something like felt the idea of wood right against the driver makes me a little nervous. but I did carefully hand sand until the plywood was just touching the driver while the brace was touching the baffle.
I did chamfer the sides so I think I will chamfer the top. I was worried about edge diffraction it seems important.
Any more thoughts on the a long length of wire after the crossover? I was thinking about keeping the crossovers on the equipment rack and then running the 8ft wire to the speakers. It would make things easy for crossover changes. The crossovers are biwired anyway but I will keep the crossovers closer to the speaker if it matters. I have tried searching this site but cannot find the correct search terms to get the answer.
thanks
I was wondering about something like felt the idea of wood right against the driver makes me a little nervous. but I did carefully hand sand until the plywood was just touching the driver while the brace was touching the baffle.
I did chamfer the sides so I think I will chamfer the top. I was worried about edge diffraction it seems important.
Any more thoughts on the a long length of wire after the crossover? I was thinking about keeping the crossovers on the equipment rack and then running the 8ft wire to the speakers. It would make things easy for crossover changes. The crossovers are biwired anyway but I will keep the crossovers closer to the speaker if it matters. I have tried searching this site but cannot find the correct search terms to get the answer.
thanks
8N,
Our search engine is known to be........um.......of special needs.
Just off the cuff, I can't see why it would make any difference where the XO is located in the length of wire from the Amp to the speakers. Using good quality parts (thick wire inductors) won't drop the current enough to really matter. IMO.
Ron
Our search engine is known to be........um.......of special needs.
Just off the cuff, I can't see why it would make any difference where the XO is located in the length of wire from the Amp to the speakers. Using good quality parts (thick wire inductors) won't drop the current enough to really matter. IMO.
Ron
Thanks Ron
Here are a few more pics - using every clamp I have - my workshop- the semi finished speakers. I need to fix the damaged speaker you can hear a little rattle in the top woofer. I cannot finish the speakers now until spring as the weather in my workshop is a little damp. I have not had time to listen critically Just finished. Learned I suck at soldering
Here are a few more pics - using every clamp I have - my workshop- the semi finished speakers. I need to fix the damaged speaker you can hear a little rattle in the top woofer. I cannot finish the speakers now until spring as the weather in my workshop is a little damp.
I have not had time to listen critically Just finished. Learned I suck at solderingAttachments
It will be good to have them inside and "dry out" over the winter. They should equalize nicely and be ready for the finish come spring. Go easy on the volume knob until you fix that buzzing driver. My speakers sound best ~50% or higher.
Yours was a very quick build, I hope you enjoy them as much as "We" do.
I don't recall if your drivers were "New" or "Used", if new expect ~50 hours of break in time before they start to sound good. Patience Luke..........
Dave (P10); Do you have any opinions on the felt around the tweeters? Curious that.
Ron
Yours was a very quick build, I hope you enjoy them as much as "We" do.
I don't recall if your drivers were "New" or "Used", if new expect ~50 hours of break in time before they start to sound good. Patience Luke..........
Dave (P10); Do you have any opinions on the felt around the tweeters? Curious that.
Ron
Last edited:
In theory it should help. If thou they are the hard-ish felt furniture pads you can buy, i'd remove them and replace with something soft & lower density.
dave
Hello
I just wanted to say thanks for all of your help on these. The work that was not getting done while I build the speakers has piled up (along with the snow) so I have not had much time lately. The speakers are used drivers and actually sound very very good. The clarity, imaging and soundstage are all very good. They best the 802M in many ways. I have not cranked them at all yet. I have not measured them or even moved them to try to improve the sound. Even at very quiet levels I am able to hear detail that I never heard before. I was wondering about the felt it does not look like anything special I don't like the way it looks but I will not remove it until I have some time to really study the sound and after the driver is replaced. I am still waiting to see if the post will pay for part of it. The very slight buzz in the driver was only when I ran a 40hz signal to that speaker. It is not present when listening to music or even with 100hz signal. I do know one thing for sure I will never buy commercial speakers again. These sound as good as any speakers I have heard at least to my suspect ears.
Again I would like to thank Ron, Dave and GM for all of your help and support. and scottmoose for the cabinet work. I will keep you posted as I have time to fine tune them.
Thanks again
Ben
Ben
I just wanted to say thanks for all of your help on these. The work that was not getting done while I build the speakers has piled up (along with the snow) so I have not had much time lately. The speakers are used drivers and actually sound very very good. The clarity, imaging and soundstage are all very good. They best the 802M in many ways. I have not cranked them at all yet. I have not measured them or even moved them to try to improve the sound. Even at very quiet levels I am able to hear detail that I never heard before. I was wondering about the felt it does not look like anything special I don't like the way it looks but I will not remove it until I have some time to really study the sound and after the driver is replaced. I am still waiting to see if the post will pay for part of it. The very slight buzz in the driver was only when I ran a 40hz signal to that speaker. It is not present when listening to music or even with 100hz signal. I do know one thing for sure I will never buy commercial speakers again. These sound as good as any speakers I have heard at least to my suspect ears.
Again I would like to thank Ron, Dave and GM for all of your help and support. and scottmoose for the cabinet work. I will keep you posted as I have time to fine tune them.
Thanks again
Ben
Ben
Just spent a little more time listening this time to Rock and Pop (up until now I have been listening to classical). I just have to say these speakers are awesome. I am so impressed by the sound natural and realistic. B&W who? These speaker Rock.
thanks again guys
I won't sign my name on this one as apparently I did twice last time.
thanks again guys
I won't sign my name on this one as apparently I did twice last time.
thanks Ron
the speakers are great. Best my wife and I have ever heard. the cabinets were time consuming and I would do things a little different next time but the speakers are great. I used screws for the drivers and the bottom of the speakers but will change to bolts. I am not sure about the crossover. Right now we are pretty happy with what we have. Is the crossover change a very large improvement. the bass seems very good. the other questions I have is should the tweeter have reversed polarity or is that only on the upgraded crossover.
How important is it to make the cabinet air tight. the base is not air tight. the drivers are not gasketed so are not air tight. are these thing important or not really? what about spikes did you notice a difference with spikes.? when we move the speaker upstairs the spikes will have to be on the little pads as we have hardwood floors.
thanks
Ben
the speakers are great. Best my wife and I have ever heard. the cabinets were time consuming and I would do things a little different next time but the speakers are great. I used screws for the drivers and the bottom of the speakers but will change to bolts. I am not sure about the crossover. Right now we are pretty happy with what we have. Is the crossover change a very large improvement. the bass seems very good. the other questions I have is should the tweeter have reversed polarity or is that only on the upgraded crossover.
How important is it to make the cabinet air tight. the base is not air tight. the drivers are not gasketed so are not air tight. are these thing important or not really? what about spikes did you notice a difference with spikes.? when we move the speaker upstairs the spikes will have to be on the little pads as we have hardwood floors.
thanks
Ben
Ben,
I felt that the new XOs did make a significant difference in the sound quality, however, it did knock down the total volume Db by a noticeable amount. What used to be a comfortable listening volume at 9:00 is now 11:00. Still plenty of volume left thou, so it's not a problem. My amp is an F5, not known for being a powerhouse of an amp.
Try changing the tweeter polarity, if you like it, good, if not it's easy to change back.
The cabinet is not air tight, if you built it correctly it has a huge hole in it. Right? It should be sealed except for the port, think of the air inside the speaker box as compressing like a spring to push back against the backside of the midwoofer drivers. If the bottom of your speaker boxes is open or not sealed well the Transmission Line design won't function properly. Important.
I didn't use a gasket behind my drivers either. No problems with mine. Instead of screws, I used 8/32 x 3/4" allen head bolts, they sit flush and blend well with the basket color. Plus there is MUCH less change of damage to the drivers with an allen key than a phillips screwdriver...... ouch.
I don't use spikes so I can't help you out there. I've heard that it improves the quickness of the bass. ? IDK. I have mine on carpet and at some point will put them on a 1" thick slab of granite w/ spikes. Just have not felt the need to try that out yet.
Get used to your speakers before you play with the XOs, then tweak them and see if you like it better, you'll learn and it's fun.
I thought it was funny that you mentioned it took a long time to build your speakers....., mine took all summer.
Ron
Last edited:
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.