They were packed in the box without individual boxes. they were not individually boxed the tweeter had a box but the woofers were wrapped in packing material. the box is not ripped but still looks like it was dragged a good distance. I had a driver repaired once and was told to put cardboard on the cone side and shrink wrap it with plastic wrap that seemed to work well I should have said something to the seller.
Maybe I can have it repaired. I think I would like to keep the seas surround instead of the 10.00 surrounds on ebay a little disappointing. Will always wonder too.
I am going to buy the wire. I hope that is the right decision.
Thanks All
Maybe I can have it repaired. I think I would like to keep the seas surround instead of the 10.00 surrounds on ebay a little disappointing. Will always wonder too.
I am going to buy the wire. I hope that is the right decision.
Thanks All
There would be no point without getting factory surrounds... it may require a complete new driver when the time comes that you'd like to go beyond the band-aided driver.
When packing drivers like this with an outie surround and a bezel that exposes them, they need to be held off from touching anything. If they came packed as i imagine from your description, the seller is responsible for the damage and i'd be asking for compensation.
dave
Dave,
Thanks for watching this thread so closely. I am always learning something when I participate in these threads.
Back to the wire type, without being theoretical, unobtainium aside, what do you recommend for Amp to XO and XO to speaker box. How about inside the Box too?
Thanks,
Ron
Too bad about the torn driver, time to call the seller. Also contact Seas of Norway and ask them for assistance. Ya never know........! keep us informed.
Thanks for watching this thread so closely. I am always learning something when I participate in these threads.
Back to the wire type, without being theoretical, unobtainium aside, what do you recommend for Amp to XO and XO to speaker box. How about inside the Box too?
Thanks,
Ron
Too bad about the torn driver, time to call the seller. Also contact Seas of Norway and ask them for assistance. Ya never know........! keep us informed.
Here are some pictures to help. Packing Speakers
Go to the alternate method (ignore the alnico bits). Before you would wrap these up you would install the factory spacers (or the busted off golf tees) into the bolt holes to keep the surround off the cardboard wrap.
dave
Thanks I have sent Solen an email to see if I can get OE replacement surrounds. They are saying that replacement surrounds are not available.
The second box of speakers finally arrived and I dont want to nit pic there is a small partial tear next to the mounting hole it does not go thru the surround just a small scratch I would imagine that the very slight damage will not hurt anything and I do not want to bother the seller if it is not going to hurt anything. Thanks for your input.
The second box of speakers finally arrived and I dont want to nit pic there is a small partial tear next to the mounting hole it does not go thru the surround just a small scratch I would imagine that the very slight damage will not hurt anything and I do not want to bother the seller if it is not going to hurt anything. Thanks for your input.
Yeah, plug 'em in. They'll sound like crap, don't crank the power, but they'll make noise and tell you if they buzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz
thank you both so much. I will try to contact seas directly. I hate to say this but if I have to buy the drivers again it will be a hardship and i may have to rethink this build.
Ron I am guessing that I should go thru the crossover?. Or can I just connect the speaker wire directly to the tweeter? By the way I wish I had your router skills. my holes are not very round. thankfully the drivers will cover my mistakes!!! After standing back ( I tried going back a couple of hundred feet and even that did not help) and looking at my the speaker holes I think investment in a set of hole saws is a good Idea!!
Really appreciate all your help I really can't thank you both enough.
Ron I am guessing that I should go thru the crossover?. Or can I just connect the speaker wire directly to the tweeter? By the way I wish I had your router skills. my holes are not very round. thankfully the drivers will cover my mistakes!!! After standing back ( I tried going back a couple of hundred feet and even that did not help) and looking at my the speaker holes I think investment in a set of hole saws is a good Idea!!
Really appreciate all your help I really can't thank you both enough.
No
Holey brace tight up against the backs of the woofer magnet... just enuff to tranfer energy to the brace, not enuff to stress the basket.
dave
Tweeters should be run through the XOvers, so you don't damage them, woofers naaaaa, just don't turn it up loud.
Hole Saws are fine for plumbing, buy a router hole cutter. Jasper Jig. Perfect holes every time.
But you do need a plunge router (unless you are very talented)
Parts-Express.com ? Jasper ? Jasper Tools, Jasper Audio, Circle Jigs, Circular Template, Plunge Router Circle Guide, One-Pass Circle Guide
Hole Saws are fine for plumbing, buy a router hole cutter. Jasper Jig. Perfect holes every time.
But you do need a plunge router (unless you are very talented)Parts-Express.com ? Jasper ? Jasper Tools, Jasper Audio, Circle Jigs, Circular Template, Plunge Router Circle Guide, One-Pass Circle Guide
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Hi
Well I ran the tweeters with the crossovers and they both make noise.
Thanks for the tip on the jasper and plunge router.
I finished the port holes today the pipe fits very well and coming from both sides seemed to make a better hole (the baffle is already glued together.) I will never have to worry about some one mistaking the speaker for a nasty commercial speaker the hand craftsmenship is evident.
they did say using felt on the baffle is a good Idea
working on the holey brace layout and still trying to find someone to get a new surround from.
with the crossover outside the speakers do you wire the speaker terminals directly to the speakers? Do you run separate wires to each mid or do you wire the mids in series? the crossover is set up for biwire I think. It is the madisound premium crossover so may need to be reworked.
I guess what I am thinking is wire each woofer back to the woofer terminal then wire the tweeter directly to the tweeter terminal. then hook the crossover up externally to the terminal. Then wire the amp to the crossover.
That leads me to another question do you want the signal (wire) shorter from the amp to the crossover or from the crossover to the drivers?
I know the commercial speakers have the crossover built in but the crossovers could just go into the equipment rack with biwire it makes no difference in material.
thanks
Ben
Well I ran the tweeters with the crossovers and they both make noise.
Thanks for the tip on the jasper and plunge router.
I finished the port holes today the pipe fits very well and coming from both sides seemed to make a better hole (the baffle is already glued together.) I will never have to worry about some one mistaking the speaker for a nasty commercial speaker the hand craftsmenship is evident.
they did say using felt on the baffle is a good Idea
working on the holey brace layout and still trying to find someone to get a new surround from.
with the crossover outside the speakers do you wire the speaker terminals directly to the speakers? Do you run separate wires to each mid or do you wire the mids in series? the crossover is set up for biwire I think. It is the madisound premium crossover so may need to be reworked.
I guess what I am thinking is wire each woofer back to the woofer terminal then wire the tweeter directly to the tweeter terminal. then hook the crossover up externally to the terminal. Then wire the amp to the crossover.
That leads me to another question do you want the signal (wire) shorter from the amp to the crossover or from the crossover to the drivers?
I know the commercial speakers have the crossover built in but the crossovers could just go into the equipment rack with biwire it makes no difference in material.
thanks
Ben
I felt your pain.
inside the cabinet, run the wires from the binding posts to the woofers in // (parallel)
you can run from the lower speaker to the upper, no problem. No time smear.
tweeter is self explanatory.
Never thought about Amp to XO to Speakers, length of wire question before. My XO is about 1 meter from my speakers. Don't know if it really matters, I'm not smart enough.
Do ensure that from the XO the tweet and woofer negatives are separate. (future proof)
Ron
Hey..........where's the photo?
inside the cabinet, run the wires from the binding posts to the woofers in // (parallel)
you can run from the lower speaker to the upper, no problem. No time smear.
tweeter is self explanatory.
Never thought about Amp to XO to Speakers, length of wire question before. My XO is about 1 meter from my speakers. Don't know if it really matters, I'm not smart enough.
Do ensure that from the XO the tweet and woofer negatives are separate. (future proof)
Ron
Hey..........where's the photo?
Here are a few pics.
The baffle needs some sanding but otherwise is done. I am still working on the fitment of the holey brace. then I will make it holey. the back is cut with the terminal cups cut out. I screwed up the measurements now I know how I got 30" I did not include the base so when I changed it to 30 3/4" I misplaced the drivers by 3/4" so my plan is to add a second 3/4" layer to the top and put in windows so the drivers will be the correct amount from the top of the speaker inside and out. the speaker overall will be 3/4" taller than spec. It will also let me put a larger chamfer on the top of the speaker. The wire is no its way. Other work is getting in the way right now so progress may stall for the next week or so. When you cut the pipe for the port I assume you measure from the front of the baffle?
Is there a recommended assembly order? Or just try to fit the assembly together and glue/clamp without the top and bottom.
I will have to paint the speakers in the spring. We have our first couple of inches of snow and I doubt very much that the weather will be warm enough to paint until at least April.
thanks
Ben
The baffle needs some sanding but otherwise is done. I am still working on the fitment of the holey brace. then I will make it holey. the back is cut with the terminal cups cut out. I screwed up the measurements now I know how I got 30" I did not include the base so when I changed it to 30 3/4" I misplaced the drivers by 3/4" so my plan is to add a second 3/4" layer to the top and put in windows so the drivers will be the correct amount from the top of the speaker inside and out. the speaker overall will be 3/4" taller than spec. It will also let me put a larger chamfer on the top of the speaker. The wire is no its way. Other work is getting in the way right now so progress may stall for the next week or so. When you cut the pipe for the port I assume you measure from the front of the baffle?
Is there a recommended assembly order? Or just try to fit the assembly together and glue/clamp without the top and bottom.
I will have to paint the speakers in the spring. We have our first couple of inches of snow and I doubt very much that the weather will be warm enough to paint until at least April.
thanks
Ben
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The larger bevel on the top won't make much difference, do it if you like the look.
The port length is measured from the front of the baffle to the rear of the port tube.
Additional height won't matter, I too doubled the tops of the speakers with holes drilled into the lower layer, helps keep them solid sounding. Tweeters should be near listening (ear) height.
Looking good, thanks for the pictures.
I built my boxes in this order, sides/ back/ baffle/ top/ bottom. What ever way works for you and is the easiest is the best. No set rules. Think what is the easiest way to line up the parts and go from there.
The port length is measured from the front of the baffle to the rear of the port tube.
Additional height won't matter, I too doubled the tops of the speakers with holes drilled into the lower layer, helps keep them solid sounding. Tweeters should be near listening (ear) height.
Looking good, thanks for the pictures.
I built my boxes in this order, sides/ back/ baffle/ top/ bottom. What ever way works for you and is the easiest is the best. No set rules. Think what is the easiest way to line up the parts and go from there.
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