Single sheet TH challenge

So you're running a single Beta 12A-2 with the Selenium? I'm curious, because the Selenium is listed as 109dB / 2.83V (which is 0.5W into 16Ω), whereas the Eminence sims as 103dB in your horn.

Is it no problem for the amp to run a speaker with 8Ω woofer and 16Ω tweeter?

I read earlier you were using the Goldwood GM-500PB, now you mention a Dayton... is this one better?

This looks like an interesting top, if it can hit 123dB at 100W and can be built for under 200 bucks.

You are right on the money on the selenium at 109 for the 8ohm, go to 16ohm and you are -6db..... perfect match for a 103db woofer section. Impedance swings wildly within frequency range of a speaker -- amp has no issues with it. I would still consider this a nominal 8 ohm cabinet.

Either horn works well, it's a matter of if you want to stack them or not. If you run the goldwood turned 90 degrees from 'normal' they do seem to integrate a little better than a stack of cabinets using the dayton waveguide. I also like the sound of the dayton waveguide a bit more. It has less overall gain, and a less 'honky' sound than the goldwood. If you use the goldwood, you actually need to eq it down just a bit, It's a bit on the bright side straight on. It's really a good 'long throw' option.

So horn choice is up to how you are going to use them. For me personally, I use the dayton in most of my applications. (where I'm running a single cabinet per side and 1 or 2 SS15 subs)
 
Hi Jbell, this may sound like a stupid question, but how would your tops do for a HiIFI application? (As I'm wanting to build a mini PA rig, but also looking at investing in some home HiFi speakers)

well the dayton waveguide and selenium combo is pretty nice. You could get away with no eq on this cabinet if you had to.. but to run in house with no sub would be a non starter for me. Also this cabinet is 23.5x16x16... not exactly small, and at 103db/1 watt... not exactly quiet either. You could try it in house, but only if you like ear bleeding levels.....

I use behringer b2031p's in my house... with a NHT sub... and that's enough. I think PA tops in the house would get me in serious trouble with the family.

However for a mini pa rig. (aka something 'car friendly') a SS15 and a pair of HS12tops with an xti1000 would be the cat's jams. My last gymnasium install was exactly that.
 
Jim; I am trying to specify QSC amps for my outdoor system. How much power will the SS15 take with the 3015LF driver and how much for your HS12 with a good Eminence driver? I am looking at setting up 4 pairs 8 each of your designs with the 2" HF drivers that I have and the owner would like to spend the monay on QSC class H amps before the new year. I will tri amp with a DSP. Do you think running two pairs 50' to 100' feet apart off one amp in the center is OK or should each set have its own amp rack? Thanks for all your help Andy.
 
Jim; I am trying to specify QSC amps for my outdoor system. How much power will the SS15 take with the 3015LF driver and how much for your HS12 with a good Eminence driver? I am looking at setting up 4 pairs 8 each of your designs with the 2" HF drivers that I have and the owner would like to spend the monay on QSC class H amps before the new year. I will tri amp with a DSP. Do you think running two pairs 50' to 100' feet apart off one amp in the center is OK or should each set have its own amp rack? Thanks for all your help Andy.

SS15 is good for 63v (500watts) and HS12 with the beta12a-2 top is good for 37v(180watts) Your kappa+psd tops (if you build them) would be good for about 49v(300watts)

Personally I'd probably keep everything in one amp rack, even though that'll mean long runs. I typically use 12 gauge extension cord for speaker wire and speakon's so you can run 2 channels per cord. You can either run your tops all parallel for a 2 ohm load, or if you want to be gentle to your top amps and run 8ohm, you can make a small serial-parallel box to put at each pair of tops. The attached diagram keeps your cabling to a minimum.
My guess on amps. Sub amps need to be rated for no less than 1000watts per channel@4ohm, top amps need to be rated at 1000watts per channel@2ohm.
 

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Speaking of powers and high-pass filters...

At least in the case of an HS-12, i did a small "patchwork experiment", so to speak.

Using the same driver data, i "drew up" a bass-reflex box in WinISD, with a "similar enough" cone excursion profile as the HS-12 HornResp simulation, purely to see some estimated effects of a LR4 high-pass on the excursion demands.

I was wondering how far off those numbers might be from the real deal...

(I mentioned this on the HornResp thread a while ago, that it would be sooooo super to have the option of applying some active filters, just like in WinISD, but to no avail :) )
 
I don't have any good pics at the moment. However I did have smaart out today, as it was a rare perfectly calm day. (you can tell there is no wind... nothing at 10hz)

I pulled out a ss15 and did a 1 meter groundplane measurement. I set the sub amp crossover that I used to no boost, and 180hz cross. I verified with spl meter and volt meter that there was no boost, just flat response out of the amp. (have to watch that... some amps have a 'bass boost' by default..... like the bash.)

Here you go.
 

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Jim; What voltage was that at? Andy
It wasn't calibrated to anything, just a relative measurement.
However I always set to 2.83v@1m or 28v@10m.

If you go back in this thread and look at the spl measurements, they line up very nicely to smaart. 105db@60hz, and then it gradually drops to 100db@42hz, then falls off a cliff. If you assign -30db to 104, that'll be pretty close. 1meter always tests better than 10meter. This was also over concrete, not over grass.

I'm still enamored with this sub... and that's saying something. Usually by now I'd be looking for the next better thing... however I'm still content with this one.
 
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So, work in progress :)
My 4 sheets of ply have been cutted (quite easy job by the way!). Time to get four of these babies together .. Hopefully they will be finished in a couple of weeks .. I'll remember to post pics, when there is something to show :)
 

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So, the build is in progress. I'm in the middle of drawing the design on the sheets, but now i have a question. It's probably more like a generel tapped-horn question, rather than something specifik on you're design.
After the horn path is going up to 5.15" it seems to me, that it goes down to 4.49", before going up to 5.25". So the horn path is narrowing after the first taper. Can someone explain this to me? I'm just trying to learn, but it just seems strange to me that it narrows down for at short while. Is it because of the double tapper or?
 
After the horn path is going up to 5.15" it seems to me, that it goes down to 4.49", before going up to 5.25".

I'm a little anal retentave about this, but it seems to do no harm. Look at the area change as you're going thru a 180 deg turn ... even worse, and nobody can find a problem with that!
Look at post #248 of this thread for a smoother (notice, I didn't say better) layout.
 
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