Simplistic NJFET RIAA

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Joined 2008
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Hi all

Carrying over a question from the GB thread. Got myself a FSP kit and sorting out some technical details to help acquire the rest of what I need for the build.

Probably already been asked...sorry ahead of time...can't get search to pop it up.


Salas:

"The 6.754K 25ppm is for R5 needing no R6 in parallel. Its a special custom value to avoid producing it through parallelism. So you solder it for R5 and you use no R6."


OK...sounds good...what about the 25ppm 47K value?...I only have 2 from the GB and there is 2 possible locations listed in the build guide.

Kevin
 
When placing the raw psu in a separate case with 1-1,5 metre (3-5 foot) umbilical, is it a good idea to place a second set of 4700f capacitors at the PSU input of the phono pcb?

Could someone point me to a good quality coaxial cable for the signal wiring in the phono box?

I used a second set of filter caps next to the phono boards, also with a bit of extra R partly because I needed to knock the raw voltage down a bit.
DSC_6025.JPG

For signal cabling I use the single-core shielded stuff from Apex Junior (Wire), I don't remember what gauge, either 22 or 24, it's silver-plated copper with PTFE insulation. For the umbilical and to carry DC from the jack to the cap boards I used the "Mil-Spec M27500-22SD2T23" from the same page. It's shielded twisted pair, very high quality, and very nice to work with. For the very short hop from the cap boards to the phono boards I just used twisted pairs of hookup wire.
 
When you haven't got preferable IDSS 2SK117GR for all places it does not mean that you can't use different IDSS if you will understand their functions:

1. Q7 lights up the phono's input section LEDs. Anything 2.6-6.5mA will give them sufficient current. Just keep those Q7 relatively close IDSS between channels. The drop across R15 is calculated for 4-5mA and about 15V drop. You may recalculate R15 for other IDSS at hand although not critical.

2. Q3x IDSS can be any as long as you will calculate there can be enough current for driving VR2x and R3x sufficiently to develop a useful ceiling of about 36V for your ease of adjusting Rail+. The formula should be Rail=((IDSSQ3x*0.8)*(R3x+VR2x))+(0.6+1.85). i.e. The practical way is to alter the R3 value according to your IDSS at hand.

3. Q2x & Q5x have no direct voltage parameter to affect, just local bias thus dissipation in the TO-92s. Better be moderate IDSS and close together enough between channels. If having low and high to choose from, better choose low.

I have 2 low idss pairs and one over 5ma that are tightly matched. the other 2 pairs are not that close.

3.36+3.38 for Q2x and 3.90+3.92 for Q5x since you mention lower idss is better for these positions.

5.69+5.71 for Q7 since any idds range is ok. Should I adjust R15?

3.99+4.36 for Q3x since these are for rail voltage and the end result can be adjusted in the trimpot.

Does this sound good?
 
diyAudio Chief Moderator
Joined 2002
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I have 2 low idss pairs and one over 5ma that are tightly matched. the other 2 pairs are not that close.

3.36+3.38 for Q2x and 3.90+3.92 for Q5x since you mention lower idss is better for these positions.

5.69+5.71 for Q7 since any idds range is ok. Should I adjust R15?

3.99+4.36 for Q3x since these are for rail voltage and the end result can be adjusted in the trimpot.

Does this sound good?

Sounds good, only make R15 2.4K so to have good voltage across Q7

Also make R3x 8.2k for nice range in trimming Rail+ for that Q3x Idss pair
 
diyAudio Chief Moderator
Joined 2002
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For umbillical cord I just used shielded 4 x 1mm ölflex cable.

Hooked up my scope and did not see any change versus directly on the PSU. So I would love to learn why an extra capacitor would be beneficial?

Marginally beneficial in low MC gain maybe if there is something rail related suspected to iron out. More in the heavy local decoupling sense.

In your much lower gain MM configuration, with custom mystical grounding of black background, no benefit :D
 
We have gotham cables in europe, I have a local reseller near my house.

The cables are of great quality, similar to mogamy and canare. Try to find a pro audio shop nearby, they normally have cables by the meter available.

If you need I can send you a meter or 2 from gotham cables. I'll be buying for myself as well!