And they also got official warranty and service there. There is no Hakko Europe. Could be a drag if a heater breaks down, don't know if they have some EU service or going to Japan.
Yes and US prices are attractive as well as warranty. However, we do not have European food and imagine me after 15 years to be an American, after 19 years of Ukrainian food and 11 years of food in Israel. Disaster..
. I very much like that Chinese 2015 disordering tool. Does 120 to 220v transformer will help? How about 50 vs. 60 Hz? That one I can convert easily?
. I very much like that Chinese 2015 disordering tool. Does 120 to 220v transformer will help? How about 50 vs. 60 Hz? That one I can convert easily?
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Simple soldering irons usually work alright not minding 10HZ dif. Hopefully its the same for that pump, nobody knows. Mains step up trafo will put it to work of course. And will isolate the mains better (how long term reliable is the internal insulation to the tip that touches a trace you may touch its other end while holding a board, again nobody knows). Needing a trafo kills the portability though. Maybe get a cheap station with continuous vacuum gun in this case?
Thank you, Nick. I'll might go ahead and try it. The price is quite attractive, but not sure about its quality. In worse case, I’ll lose $30..
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I found some article expressing the exact phenomenon that I have with my subwoofer. Once again, it happens only when I use it with my analog gear on mid-high volume.
Bass cone flap | Stereophile.com
They discuss some possibility to treat subsonic frequencies (something like 10Hz and below) which are causing this flipping effect on sub.
Some of them used that filter: FMODS
I’m asking if you guys know some more intelligent way to remove/minimize low frequencies in that subsonic region on TT (increase/decries VTF and ect…)
Bass cone flap | Stereophile.com
They discuss some possibility to treat subsonic frequencies (something like 10Hz and below) which are causing this flipping effect on sub.
Some of them used that filter: FMODS
I’m asking if you guys know some more intelligent way to remove/minimize low frequencies in that subsonic region on TT (increase/decries VTF and ect…)
Those FMOD probably just have small value capacitor(s) and termination resistor inside. Can help when used on the subwoofer's input. 20HZ high pass type. If the problem persists:
As already mentioned, this problem started when a specialist service changed your cartridge's innards and stylus. If it changed to a stiffer suspension, maybe the arm needs more mass to control the system resonance (try more VTF first). And/or the 20dB gain in the tube pre is at the edge of overdrive on 63dB FSP mode and unknown modded cartridge output. Extra energy in the sub bass frequencies from large subwoofers pushes it. How many kOhm you measure on your tube preamp's line in RCA where you hook up the FSP? Knowing that you could use lower value C4 on FSP to create higher pass (expensive mod) or go 57dB on the FSP to see if this funky infra-bass phenomenon calms significantly. If you think its 60dB you need we can calculate mods too. How much stronger is TT+FSP than CD replay now? Can you measure or roughly describe?
As already mentioned, this problem started when a specialist service changed your cartridge's innards and stylus. If it changed to a stiffer suspension, maybe the arm needs more mass to control the system resonance (try more VTF first). And/or the 20dB gain in the tube pre is at the edge of overdrive on 63dB FSP mode and unknown modded cartridge output. Extra energy in the sub bass frequencies from large subwoofers pushes it. How many kOhm you measure on your tube preamp's line in RCA where you hook up the FSP? Knowing that you could use lower value C4 on FSP to create higher pass (expensive mod) or go 57dB on the FSP to see if this funky infra-bass phenomenon calms significantly. If you think its 60dB you need we can calculate mods too. How much stronger is TT+FSP than CD replay now? Can you measure or roughly describe?