Are you sure.
The battery + is connected to red.
That red passes into the 10r. the 10r feeds the Drain pin.
That, to me, looks right.
Oops, there is a view of a black going between the terminals. Is Black feeding right hand terminal and then the resistor and the next red wire?
The hand written labels on the paper have been reversed
It's the wires into the terminals that have been swapped.
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Andrew, I think Salas is right.
That + is not passing into the resistor and feeding the drain in the picture. Looking behind the connector block, we can clearly see the black - cable passing over to the resistor side of the connector block. The + and - markings are written as it is wired, with reversed polarity from how it should be.
That + is not passing into the resistor and feeding the drain in the picture. Looking behind the connector block, we can clearly see the black - cable passing over to the resistor side of the connector block. The + and - markings are written as it is wired, with reversed polarity from how it should be.
Use red for +ve supply, always and then you "inspect" instantly.
BTW,
I clip a red croc clip to the two leads S+G first.
Then clip a black croc to the remaining lead.
This achieves two outcomes.
1.) S& G are shorted BEFORE applying power.
2.) Vds, Vgs and Vdg cannot be taken beyond limits because S&G are already shorted.
Inserting a 3pin device into a live socket has the risk that two pins can be connected before the third pin makes contact. That can destroy some devices.
BTW,
I clip a red croc clip to the two leads S+G first.
Then clip a black croc to the remaining lead.
This achieves two outcomes.
1.) S& G are shorted BEFORE applying power.
2.) Vds, Vgs and Vdg cannot be taken beyond limits because S&G are already shorted.
Inserting a 3pin device into a live socket has the risk that two pins can be connected before the third pin makes contact. That can destroy some devices.
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Hi guys, my build has slowed down as I'm waiting on more parts.I still need to order C2x and I can't get Wima mkp or mcap evo, would Jantzen mkp cross cap be suitable?
Of course it would be fine. They're not bad caps at all. My speakers are full of them, and sound dreamy.
All,
About to put together the V1.1 shunt to feed my Salas phono...anybody have a perfboard layout or pcb design for this version of the shunt? I've sketched out about 10 different versions on paper but it's giving me a headache. I managed to get the phono put together point to point but this one is hurting my brain.
Thanks.
About to put together the V1.1 shunt to feed my Salas phono...anybody have a perfboard layout or pcb design for this version of the shunt? I've sketched out about 10 different versions on paper but it's giving me a headache. I managed to get the phono put together point to point but this one is hurting my brain.
Thanks.
Attachments
See this start of this thread for the layout:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/group-buys/241736-gb-salas-folded-simplistic-phono-pcb.html
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/group-buys/241736-gb-salas-folded-simplistic-phono-pcb.html
Or get a bib 1.1 board from Tea if he has got any left from last GB. Carries two positives and you can break off the negative area, its all V grooved in three sections.
Dc voltage is 47 voltage,i will reduce it further with a bigger resister at later when i place an order tommorow.the Mosfet is IRF9610PBF Q1x 2-IRF9530PBF Q6x 2,Tea hook me up great packet
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