Capacitor ratings depend on type ceramic discs tend to be rated in pico or nano F and use first two digits with third in scientific notation. Look it up on web how to read these. Large ones are in micro F and will have either a decimal or uF notation.
You can change gain with resistor settings in discrete steps but volume is handled by your source or preamp. Power amps never handle volume adjustment.
A simple volume adjustment is to use a potentiometer like 20k and put wiper to input of amp and one leg to ground, other leg to source. This changes input impedance with volume though. To do it properly use a buffer opamp on the input.
I don't recommend digging through your old parts to get capacitors, if you make mistake in reading it or it's not correct type, it will cause problems. Easiest to order fresh ones from Digikey or the like, they come labeled and bagged. If you have a capacitance meter that helps. Make sure you mount the bypass caps as close to pins as possible.
If you go with smd components (recommended since chip is smd as is the bill of materials) you will need a magnifier goggle or a stereo microscope to do the work.
Good luck.
You can change gain with resistor settings in discrete steps but volume is handled by your source or preamp. Power amps never handle volume adjustment.
A simple volume adjustment is to use a potentiometer like 20k and put wiper to input of amp and one leg to ground, other leg to source. This changes input impedance with volume though. To do it properly use a buffer opamp on the input.
I don't recommend digging through your old parts to get capacitors, if you make mistake in reading it or it's not correct type, it will cause problems. Easiest to order fresh ones from Digikey or the like, they come labeled and bagged. If you have a capacitance meter that helps. Make sure you mount the bypass caps as close to pins as possible.
If you go with smd components (recommended since chip is smd as is the bill of materials) you will need a magnifier goggle or a stereo microscope to do the work.
Good luck.
I plan on going SMD for some of it if not all
would these goggles work I have chosen 3 that I think would be good what one would be best
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/20x-Headband-Magnifier-Jewellers-Magnifying-Glass-Head-Eye-Loupe-Led-Lamp-Lens-/120932961819?pt=AU_B_I_Electrical_Test_Equipment&hash=item1c282a8e1b
or this one http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/15X-Magnifier-LED-Eye-Loupe-Head-Strap-Repair-Watches-/120712186731?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item1c1b01cb6b
or this one which I think might be the best http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Lighted-Magnifying-Glass-Headset-LED-Head-Headband-Magnifier-Loupe-8-Lens-/321082418994?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item4ac200e732
Trexbreath -
I don't mean to take the wind out of your sails, but it sounds like you've made up your mind about class D and SMDs. Your earlier posts seem to indicate you are a noob to DIY and that this is your first amp project. The assumption therefore is you have little or no real life soldering experience. If that is true I have to agree with Tekko, that tackling an amp with SMDs should not be your first project. There's too much that can go wrong. And trying to correct, or clean up solder pads from bridged solder joints, or wrong components will be an exercise in futility - magnifying goggles or not. And in the process, you may become frustrated and throw-in the towel so to speak.
Also, don't become disillusioned about the true price of this experience. In all likelihood, it will cost well beyond $50 - especially if rework is involved. None of my DIY projects have ever cost less than I originally had intended. That's not because of poor planning either. It's because many of these projects for DIY'ers become an 'as built' endeavor. You will also need some basic tools and and equipment. Without which troubleshooting will be a real challenge.
I don't mean for this post to sound harsh, but I speak from experience. You have to know your limits when you start out. I personally would start with a simplier chip amp (LM3886), or similar and then move to class D once you get a bit more design and soldering experience. While soldering is not hard, it does take some experience to do it correctly. It's part science and part art. And the smaller technology continues to make the components, the more challenging the soldering process becomes. It's a tedious job and cannot be done in a hurry. SMDs raises the soldering bar significantly.
Good luck with this project. In any event you have a wealth of experience at your disposal on these forums from helpful members.
I don't mean to take the wind out of your sails, but it sounds like you've made up your mind about class D and SMDs. Your earlier posts seem to indicate you are a noob to DIY and that this is your first amp project. The assumption therefore is you have little or no real life soldering experience. If that is true I have to agree with Tekko, that tackling an amp with SMDs should not be your first project. There's too much that can go wrong. And trying to correct, or clean up solder pads from bridged solder joints, or wrong components will be an exercise in futility - magnifying goggles or not. And in the process, you may become frustrated and throw-in the towel so to speak.
Also, don't become disillusioned about the true price of this experience. In all likelihood, it will cost well beyond $50 - especially if rework is involved. None of my DIY projects have ever cost less than I originally had intended. That's not because of poor planning either. It's because many of these projects for DIY'ers become an 'as built' endeavor. You will also need some basic tools and and equipment. Without which troubleshooting will be a real challenge.
I don't mean for this post to sound harsh, but I speak from experience. You have to know your limits when you start out. I personally would start with a simplier chip amp (LM3886), or similar and then move to class D once you get a bit more design and soldering experience. While soldering is not hard, it does take some experience to do it correctly. It's part science and part art. And the smaller technology continues to make the components, the more challenging the soldering process becomes. It's a tedious job and cannot be done in a hurry. SMDs raises the soldering bar significantly.
Good luck with this project. In any event you have a wealth of experience at your disposal on these forums from helpful members.
Trex,
See post by Mguntrum - he just built 3116 amp with break out board to get away from smd. Looks like some good info here. http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/class-d/237086-tpa3116d2-amp.html
Don't let smd dissuade you from it being your first amp project. It was my first amp project and I had never soldered smd before. Sure, there's a learning curve, but watch some youtube how to videos and you will be much wiser. Practice on some spare parts first. Any magnifier that gets from 3x and up to at least 6x with built in lights will work. I got mine for $7 at amazon.
Good luck!
See post by Mguntrum - he just built 3116 amp with break out board to get away from smd. Looks like some good info here. http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/class-d/237086-tpa3116d2-amp.html
Don't let smd dissuade you from it being your first amp project. It was my first amp project and I had never soldered smd before. Sure, there's a learning curve, but watch some youtube how to videos and you will be much wiser. Practice on some spare parts first. Any magnifier that gets from 3x and up to at least 6x with built in lights will work. I got mine for $7 at amazon.
Good luck!
I said building amps not soldering I have soldered plenty of electronics before taking of and soldering on components although I will admit that I have never soldered anything smaller than a small resister about the size of a soggy grain of rice and only through hole soldering but im shore I can solder a smd component as long as I take it slow, and I have a few smd circuit boards with smd electronic components on them that I can practice on including ic chips from devices that use microcontrollers like printers led TV microwaves washing machines etc..
so Im not a complete noob just an experienced noob who has some idea about soldering and has never looked at an amps insides twice
I hope that clears some of the doubts away about my soldering
the amp that mguntrun made looks very professional for a diy almost looks shop bought.
im going to try and use smd resisters and compaciters if I can find them cheap
and if my idea works for making a pcb board I should be able to make it for free I have found an assorted box of smd resisters for $101 NEW SMD SMT 0603 1 144 Values Resistor KIT 144 X 100pc 14400 Filled IN BOX ALL | eBay
ifi can find compaciters in a similar bundle and I don't run out of pcb I should be able to build my first amp for $300 and every next one the same for a lot cheaper if I decide to
by the way could I use these inductors or are they to different 10 PCS CDRH127 LDNP 100MC Sumida 10 UH 6 7A SMD Shielded Power Inductors Rohs | eBay
Trex,
I guess you must be in Australia, I don't know where you normally order electronics parts from but you must have a company like Digikey. They have every part in stock and smd components are cheap, typically $0.10 to $0.20 a piece for caps and resistors. The bigger values like 0.68 uF or 1 uF are about $0.80 ea and the most expensive are the inductors which range from $0.80 to $2 ea depending on quality. If you make a pcb from Itead.com, you can get 10 for $10. If you buy in bulk, you can probably make 10 amps for $100 not including tools, solder, wires, terminals, etc. I am using the cheap $0.80 inductors and they work fine. I have shielded $2 ones and cannot hear the difference.
I guess you must be in Australia, I don't know where you normally order electronics parts from but you must have a company like Digikey. They have every part in stock and smd components are cheap, typically $0.10 to $0.20 a piece for caps and resistors. The bigger values like 0.68 uF or 1 uF are about $0.80 ea and the most expensive are the inductors which range from $0.80 to $2 ea depending on quality. If you make a pcb from Itead.com, you can get 10 for $10. If you buy in bulk, you can probably make 10 amps for $100 not including tools, solder, wires, terminals, etc. I am using the cheap $0.80 inductors and they work fine. I have shielded $2 ones and cannot hear the difference.
Yes I live in Australia and I think what you call Digikey we call jaycar and the nearest jaycar is about 1200km away and by the time that a simple smd resister gets here it would have been cheaper of eBay
in the middle of having some practice with smd components my soldering iron went pop and through out a heap of electrical sparks and no longer works but I wasn't to bothered but it shore made me jump through the roof when it happened
anyway I now need a new soldering iron I was thinking I might as well get a proper bench soldering station and I was looking at this one
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Professional-SMD-Soldering-station-rework-stations-solder-iron-YH-936-/230905701065?pt=AU_B_I_Electrical_Test_Equipment&hash=item35c30d62c9
or this one
SMD Soldering Equipment HOT Soldering Iron Rework Stations YH 939D | eBay
wich one would be better for smd soldering and through hole soldering
im also open for suggestions on better one's but I would prefer not to spend over $60
anyway I now need a new soldering iron I was thinking I might as well get a proper bench soldering station and I was looking at this one
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Professional-SMD-Soldering-station-rework-stations-solder-iron-YH-936-/230905701065?pt=AU_B_I_Electrical_Test_Equipment&hash=item35c30d62c9
or this one
SMD Soldering Equipment HOT Soldering Iron Rework Stations YH 939D | eBay
wich one would be better for smd soldering and through hole soldering
im also open for suggestions on better one's but I would prefer not to spend over $60
You don't need anything fancy. Just variable temp station with sponge, a tiny 0.015 in and 0.035 in chisel tip, 0.015 in dia rosin core solder, solder wick, and liquid flux. The tips can be pricey.
I use this $40 iron and it is very adequate. Weller WLC100 40-Watt Soldering Station - Amazon.com
I use this $40 iron and it is very adequate. Weller WLC100 40-Watt Soldering Station - Amazon.com
Look no farther than one of the Hakko soldering station models. You cannot go wrong with one of these. I've been using it for the past year and love it. All kind of sized tips too - from through hole to SMDs. They have analog or digital temp control models. Analog has been working fine for me. The FX-888 model.
Sorry this one is over $60USD.
Look no farther than one of the Hakko soldering station models. You cannot go wrong with one of these. I've been using it for the past year and love it. All kind of sized tips too - from through hole to SMDs. They have analog or digital temp control models. Analog has been working fine for me. The FX-888 model.
Sorry this one is over $60USD.
the hakko soldering iron looks good and sounds good but it is just that little bit two expensive for me $115 on amazon and $91 on eBay excluding postage is just that bit to much for my bank on top of the amplifiers increasing cost
I have estimated that this amplifier will cost me more or less than $300 and is going to take me at least 2 months to chase down all the parts and work out how to design my pcb
I am currently working out a way to get components really cheap without skimping on quality thinking of asking someone who repairs or builds audio systems as part of a business because they should be able to get a manufacturers discount or what ever they are calling it
NP. I certainly can appreciate the budget constraints you face. We all do in some capacitor with our hobby indulgences.
I had a small Weller soldering pencil I used for 30 years before it failed. I did a little research on the web (it's a wonderful thing), and the Hakko kept popping up as the best. I've been very happy with it, but I know it's on the pricier side. It looks funky but the build quality is solid.so what your saying is if I can find the different size tips for the soldering iron, it should be a good buy
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