Requirements for the motor run cap.........big and round.....
......and in my case less than 2" in diameter since that is my largest endmill......You could use an oval/oblong shaped one since you are CNC-ing top plate, but you will need to find a proper clamp for it. There are loads of clamps on ebay for these; round clamps are pretty easy to source.
You can also buy these from your local HVAC supply house, clamps too. They are typically used on HVAC equip.
The more uF the better; they are rated in VAC, usually 370VAC or 440VAC. They will handle 1.41 x VAC rating for DC so over 500VDC for either 370 or 440. If you look on Ebay some have multiple values, ie more than one cap in a single can, just find a single uF one 50-100uf or so and a clamp to mount it.
There are some that are encased in plastic, these will work too although I've only used the metal canned ones. In the old days the oil in these was pretty toxic, new ones use much safer oil for the electrolyte. If you shake one you can hear the oil sloshing inside usually.
I bead-blast the metal can ones (as well as the top plate and other AL chassis parts. You can also paint them or whatever you want. They typically have 1/4" male faston connectors on them; you can either solder to them or crimp 1/4" female fastons on wires.
......and in my case less than 2" in diameter since that is my largest endmill......You could use an oval/oblong shaped one since you are CNC-ing top plate, but you will need to find a proper clamp for it. There are loads of clamps on ebay for these; round clamps are pretty easy to source.
You can also buy these from your local HVAC supply house, clamps too. They are typically used on HVAC equip.
The more uF the better; they are rated in VAC, usually 370VAC or 440VAC. They will handle 1.41 x VAC rating for DC so over 500VDC for either 370 or 440. If you look on Ebay some have multiple values, ie more than one cap in a single can, just find a single uF one 50-100uf or so and a clamp to mount it.
There are some that are encased in plastic, these will work too although I've only used the metal canned ones. In the old days the oil in these was pretty toxic, new ones use much safer oil for the electrolyte. If you shake one you can hear the oil sloshing inside usually.
I bead-blast the metal can ones (as well as the top plate and other AL chassis parts. You can also paint them or whatever you want. They typically have 1/4" male faston connectors on them; you can either solder to them or crimp 1/4" female fastons on wires.
True! I haven’t decided where I’m going to put that thing yet. I’m starting to lean towards a bigger box and hiding the choke and the cap underneath.
My personal preference for the power switch is a round one that has a large nut on the back.....the ones you have spec'ed are snap in, those require a specific hole size and panel thickness, and are typically designed for thin sheet metal cases.......the spec will tell you max panel thickness. The square one requires an accurate square hole as well.
The Volume pot needs to be audio (log) taper not linear.......
The motor run cap is good and will certainly work but it's only 10uf or 7.5uf depending on whether you read the description or the label on the cap.......consider finding a bit more uf's.
The Volume pot needs to be audio (log) taper not linear.......
The motor run cap is good and will certainly work but it's only 10uf or 7.5uf depending on whether you read the description or the label on the cap.......consider finding a bit more uf's.
Last edited:
Here's a typical round switch with a nut/threaded body..
https://www.digikey.com/en/products...8Wqu5EzMEpYZbgHowriYXgC2RPHCHF7YAO5hSAAWLBJAA
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/nte-electronics-inc/54-500/11653125
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/e-switch/RR3130ABLKBLKES/1767491
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/cw-industries/GRB130A05BB2/2235523 this one has universal on/off marking
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/nte-electronics-inc/54-507/11653641 square face but takes a round hole and has a nut
https://www.digikey.com/en/products...8Wqu5EzMEpYZbgHowriYXgC2RPHCHF7YAO5hSAAWLBJAA
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/nte-electronics-inc/54-500/11653125
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/e-switch/RR3130ABLKBLKES/1767491
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/cw-industries/GRB130A05BB2/2235523 this one has universal on/off marking
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/nte-electronics-inc/54-507/11653641 square face but takes a round hole and has a nut
Switchcraft stuff is high quality, I've found the cheap ebay RCA's to work really well also; they have big hexes on them and come with nice insulators.
There are loads on ebay but here is one example.
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr...cat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_odkw=rca+jack&_osacat=0
These are all the same..come out of the same factory I'd bet.
For the switchcraft ones, you have one white and one black in the cart......can you get a red one? black/red more typical....not really a big deal though.
There are loads on ebay but here is one example.
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr...cat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_odkw=rca+jack&_osacat=0
These are all the same..come out of the same factory I'd bet.
For the switchcraft ones, you have one white and one black in the cart......can you get a red one? black/red more typical....not really a big deal though.
https://temcoindustrial.com/ac-electric-motor-run-capacitor-rc0096-100-uf-mfd-440-vac-round-hvac/
This is the one I use. 100uF
Available from the usual sources. You'll need a 60mm hole if your'e going through-top.
This is the one I use. 100uF
Available from the usual sources. You'll need a 60mm hole if your'e going through-top.
If you are using a modern rocker switch I think it is worth considering one with a light, then you will clearly see the unit is powered up. Lots of people say 'oh, I just look at the tubes', but I'm sure I read somewhere that it is a safety requirement as well. I like the look of the old style toggle switches, so I make sure there is an LED as well. (Probably ought to be a neon on the primary of the transformer to be really safe.)
You've likely already figured this out.........speaker binding posts come with either short threaded studs (for metal panel mounting) or long studs (for going though typical 3/4" wood speaker cabinets)......so if you are doing a wood back panel buy accordingly. The long ones will work fine in metal panels they just are long.
Got the motor run cap specd above! And some 20, 22 and 24g ga wire.
A bunch of other stuff too. Still waiting on a few more critical pieces (my book too!)
Still messing around and trying to figure out how to organize everything under the hood- that motor run cap is a beast!
Anyway, thanks for all the guidance! I’d be lost without you guys and this forum. (I still am in the weeds a bit but starting to wrap my head around all this now that I have many of the parts
)
Work was very busy this week but I’m going to find time in the very near future to knock together a quick plywood box to figure out my top plate and box size and do some testing to see if I can make this thing work!
A bunch of other stuff too. Still waiting on a few more critical pieces (my book too!)
Still messing around and trying to figure out how to organize everything under the hood- that motor run cap is a beast!
Anyway, thanks for all the guidance! I’d be lost without you guys and this forum. (I still am in the weeds a bit but starting to wrap my head around all this now that I have many of the parts
)Work was very busy this week but I’m going to find time in the very near future to knock together a quick plywood box to figure out my top plate and box size and do some testing to see if I can make this thing work!
Ahhh yes. I thought I ordered some but of course the item I picked out is on back order. I’ll make sure to get some. Will I need 600v wire anywhere else besides the motor run cap?
Don't say you weren't warned :-D
I actually think it looks pretty cool, up top,
In a monolith kinda way.