Pardon the post spam, I managed to cancel the order. The ff165wk isn’t impossible to mount I think, but I need to do quite a bit of trimming. If I fail I will end of with an unmountable driver. It’s hard enough to sell a pristine driver here locally, let alone a mangled one.
Now I am looking at the Alpair 10p. This is a tad small at 164mm OD. My screw holes are 162mm apart. I will need to drill or file 4 screw notches at the rim. The outer rim is also very thick. This is far from ideal but may be easier to to execute.
The Scanspeak woofer looks like it will fit exactly down to the screw holes. But I will have to worry about crossover and tweeter.
Now I am looking at the Alpair 10p. This is a tad small at 164mm OD. My screw holes are 162mm apart. I will need to drill or file 4 screw notches at the rim. The outer rim is also very thick. This is far from ideal but may be easier to to execute.
The Scanspeak woofer looks like it will fit exactly down to the screw holes. But I will have to worry about crossover and tweeter.
Trying to modify the driver frame would ruin it. A lot easier to route the extra space from the driver rebate.
A10p uses a 134mm hole. A too large a hole will mean you will not have a seal. The easiest way to fix is to do a separate supraBaffle, but the driver needs to be flush with the baffle so this will be a lot harder than tweaking the rebate to fit the FF165. I personally prefer the A10p but not everyone. I could live with either.
You are going to have to figure out how to do some woodwork.
dave
How do you suggest I carve out the rebate to fit the FF165WK?
I am equally not thrilled at the prospect of constructing a supra baffle, or anything that requires this degree of aesthetic. But this I sort of know to do with my limited tools and the absence of a workshop.
This is making me want to go the Scanspeak woofer route.
I am equally not thrilled at the prospect of constructing a supra baffle, or anything that requires this degree of aesthetic. But this I sort of know to do with my limited tools and the absence of a workshop.
This is making me want to go the Scanspeak woofer route.
If you're willing to invest in a dremel you could probably make it fit with that and some patience. I think the chances that you will be able to successfully design and implement a good 2-way in any reasonable amount of time and money are quite low. If you want to get into the hobby then go for it, otherwise if you can't get a full range to fit, then I'd just buy a commercial speaker or look for a kit that you could use with your cabs if I were you.
I think I would get some of those bits or a dremel.
Another issue is, the screw location would be very close in proximity of 2 existing screw holes( right in the middle it seems). I worry that the mm or 2 of mdf on both sides might give way.
I think the screw holes on the driver cannot be used. Is it advisable to drill new ones on the frame? I might be able to rotate the driver but it’s hard to tell how much I can rotate without the driver with me.
Another issue is, the screw location would be very close in proximity of 2 existing screw holes( right in the middle it seems). I worry that the mm or 2 of mdf on both sides might give way.
I think the screw holes on the driver cannot be used. Is it advisable to drill new ones on the frame? I might be able to rotate the driver but it’s hard to tell how much I can rotate without the driver with me.
If I use those 2 screw holes to hold the wood, the speaker screw would have to go in between those 2 screws. I don't know if the screw 3 screw heads will fit together. This is in some way better than no screw shafts supporting the screw holes on both sides I guess. I can also drill 2 holes far away from the cluster of screw holes for attaching the wood.
Compared to gluing this would make the wood removable. I also only have 1 F clamp, gluing 8 of them one by one would be a pain.
Either way I would have to make irreversible changes to the speaker cabinet somehow. I wonder if I should sell the speaker instead. Especially considering the B&W I was eyeing went on sale yesterday, if I can overlook the loose bass and the unnatural but intriguing sizzle.
Also the new Andrew Jones Elac Debut 2.0 B6.2 is already available on Amazon, which seems to have addressed the overwhelming bass and the rolled off highs of the original B6.
But if I don't do this, I don't see how I could try out full range speaker in the foreseeable future. I can build something easy like open baffle of reasonable size, but the baffle size calculation is beyond me. If someone can help me, this is an option too.
Several reviews complain about the tweeter.
Adding a resistance across drivers improves driver damping, and will reduce/cure driver harshness/spitiness/sizzle.
Simply wire a 1W Carbon Film across the tweeter, preferably directly at the tweeter terminals but across the crossover pcb output terminals will work.
While you are at it raise the crossover pcb on standoffs and add 0.1uf Polypropylene caps across each of the pcb mounted electrolytics.
The tweeter shunt resistor value is select on test....start with say 82 ohms and keep going down until you get the sound you want (down to 15 oms or so will be ok).
Doing the same across the woofer will also improve woofer harshness/breakup.
You can experiment with different resistor types, ie Wirewound, Metal Film, Carbon Film etc....they all sound different, with carbon film causing a relaxedness in the sound not present with WW or MF.
1W rated resistor across the tweeter is fine, maybe paralleled pairs across the woofer.
This is a low cost and easy solution that may get you the sound that you can live with.....or like.
Dan.
Thanks, this would be interesting to experiment. I do have some resistors lying around.
While not exactly a sanctioned technical term, this forum is called full range, which apparently refers to speakers constructed with a single full range driver without crossover.
I stuck a 68ohm 5W Kiwame across the tweeter terminal, it did tame down the "ssssss" noticeably! I think I will leave it there at least for now.
I am wondering if the Fostex FX120 would suit me better?
Fostex FX120, 5" Full Range
It seems to me mounting would be easier. I just have to dremel a ring shaped wood to fit the much smaller driver. No driver or speaker cabinet mangling.
Apart from that, it appears to be a higher end driver than the FF165WK. The build is nicer. The factory frequency response chart, if it is to be believed, looks much flatter.
The downside is the lower power handling and SPL. I wonder if this would significantly impact sound quality in practice? I would also lose bass, but I will be using it with a subwoofer.
How does the FX120 sound compared to the FF165WK?
Fostex FX120, 5" Full Range
It seems to me mounting would be easier. I just have to dremel a ring shaped wood to fit the much smaller driver. No driver or speaker cabinet mangling.
Apart from that, it appears to be a higher end driver than the FF165WK. The build is nicer. The factory frequency response chart, if it is to be believed, looks much flatter.
The downside is the lower power handling and SPL. I wonder if this would significantly impact sound quality in practice? I would also lose bass, but I will be using it with a subwoofer.
How does the FX120 sound compared to the FF165WK?
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