I have a pair of Infinity Primus P163. They are great for TV, but for music I find the lower treble spike is fatiguing. You can find more info about the speaker here:
Infinity Primus P163 Review
I just went out and auditioned a bunch of speakers with the intention of buying one. I sort of planned to settle with a B&W 685 S2. However I feel it is a tad overpriced, it isn't as smooth as others in its price range (Wharfedale and Dali).
So I'm thinking if I should modify my existing speaker instead. It seems to have a decent box. I must stress I know next to nothing about speaker design. I thought about replacing some parts in the crossover or even the tweeter. Then I thought it may be easier to to remove the drivers and crossover and just plop in a suitably sized full range driver, like this:
Fostex FE168EZ 6.5" Full Range Sigma Series
I use these with a subwoofer so it doesn't have to go terribly low. My question is, will this be an improvement at all? My guess is an enclosure made for sealed tweeter might be a problem. Or am I better off buying a commercial speaker?
Infinity Primus P163 Review
I just went out and auditioned a bunch of speakers with the intention of buying one. I sort of planned to settle with a B&W 685 S2. However I feel it is a tad overpriced, it isn't as smooth as others in its price range (Wharfedale and Dali).
So I'm thinking if I should modify my existing speaker instead. It seems to have a decent box. I must stress I know next to nothing about speaker design. I thought about replacing some parts in the crossover or even the tweeter. Then I thought it may be easier to to remove the drivers and crossover and just plop in a suitably sized full range driver, like this:
Fostex FE168EZ 6.5" Full Range Sigma Series
I use these with a subwoofer so it doesn't have to go terribly low. My question is, will this be an improvement at all? My guess is an enclosure made for sealed tweeter might be a problem. Or am I better off buying a commercial speaker?
The reviewer of the Infinity Primus P163 criticises the quality of the drivers and crossover but says that the box is 'built like a tank'.
On the face of it, removing the current drivers and crossover would seem a good idea.
However, at over 200 dollars a pop, the Fostex drivers may be considered to be overkill and that's before we consider if they would suit the enclosure in the first place.
I shouldn't think they would, as the Fostex drivers are designed to be horn loaded.
On the face of it, removing the current drivers and crossover would seem a good idea.
However, at over 200 dollars a pop, the Fostex drivers may be considered to be overkill and that's before we consider if they would suit the enclosure in the first place.
I shouldn't think they would, as the Fostex drivers are designed to be horn loaded.
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By looking at the tweeter, it's a really cheap one attached to a waveguide.
Your idea of changing it it's not that bad.
Challenge is : what to chose from about 100+ tweeters
Moreover, will the crossover "fit" the new one ?
( as long as the new one has the same impedance, 8 Ω, it should...but...you'd better first separate the two paths and analyze better )
Your idea of changing it it's not that bad.
Challenge is : what to chose from about 100+ tweeters
Moreover, will the crossover "fit" the new one ?
( as long as the new one has the same impedance, 8 Ω, it should...but...you'd better first separate the two paths and analyze better )
Thanks for the input.
I wouldn't use the word "tank", but I think they are decent, no worse than the B&W that cost a lot more, but they do sound cheaper IMO.
I also don't mind full range open baffle. Or keep it 2 way with different driver and crossover. As long as they sound better and does not involve significant woodwork or design knowledge.
By looking at the tweeter, it's a really cheap one attached to a waveguide.
Your idea of changing it it's not that bad.
Challenge is : what to chose from about 100+ tweeters
Moreover, will the crossover "fit" the new one ?
( as long as the new one has the same impedance, 8 Ω, it should...but...you'd better first separate the two paths and analyze better )
I am also open to the idea of line level crossover and amplifying them separately. No harm ditching the crossover altogether.
Thanks for your input. You are right, replacing tweeter would be the simplest solution in improving sound quality.
My receiver has 2 unused channels. For a while I have been slowly amassing parts for a passive line level crossover. I have not go ahead because I am not so sure if it is a good idea. Either way this is another topic altogether.
My receiver has 2 unused channels. For a while I have been slowly amassing parts for a passive line level crossover. I have not go ahead because I am not so sure if it is a good idea. Either way this is another topic altogether.
While your idea of just replacing the drivers with a FR is akin to stuff i have done, but the FE168e∑ is not really a suitable driver… it really wants a horn.
1st question… what is the internal volume of the box? That would go a long way to helping choose a suitable FR driver.
Also, looking at the XO in this they haven’t even uses a poly cap on the tweeter. A cheap 1st pass experinent would be to see if replacing at least the tweeter caps with even modest poly caps. That would be valuable even if you flipped the speakers and started from scratch (which would give a lot more choice of drivers).
dave
1st question… what is the internal volume of the box? That would go a long way to helping choose a suitable FR driver.
Also, looking at the XO in this they haven’t even uses a poly cap on the tweeter. A cheap 1st pass experinent would be to see if replacing at least the tweeter caps with even modest poly caps. That would be valuable even if you flipped the speakers and started from scratch (which would give a lot more choice of drivers).
dave
External dimension is 375*208*280mm which worked out to be 21.84 liter.
Easiest for me would be to remove the woofer, replace it with a full range driver, and rewire accordingly.
If I were to keep it 2 way, I would replace both drivers. For the tweeter I suspect I won't be able to find to find one that fit, so I would have to put it on top of the speaker.
This woofer seem to physically fit in the hole and have suitable spec.
ScanSpeak Classic P17WJ00 6.5" Woofer
For tweeter, this won't fit, and sensitivity might be lower than it should, but might not be a bad thing.
ScanSpeak Classic D2008/8512 20 mm Dome Tweeter
If I were to go this path, I think I should also redo the crossover. But I am trying to understand the circuit and which parts belong to the tweeter.
Easiest for me would be to remove the woofer, replace it with a full range driver, and rewire accordingly.
If I were to keep it 2 way, I would replace both drivers. For the tweeter I suspect I won't be able to find to find one that fit, so I would have to put it on top of the speaker.
This woofer seem to physically fit in the hole and have suitable spec.
ScanSpeak Classic P17WJ00 6.5" Woofer
For tweeter, this won't fit, and sensitivity might be lower than it should, but might not be a bad thing.
ScanSpeak Classic D2008/8512 20 mm Dome Tweeter
If I were to go this path, I think I should also redo the crossover. But I am trying to understand the circuit and which parts belong to the tweeter.
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Outside is only useful if we know how thick the panels are. If we assume 18mm (could easily be 15 oe 16mm) we end up with just over 14 litres ignoring any bracing. Of the drivers i commonly deal with the Mark Audio Alpair 10p or Fostex FF165wk could be fitted. The A10p would need retrofitting the driver cut-out (ie it is too big) the FF165wk would be an exact drop-in (ignoring any rebate in the baffle). Neither need a tweeter.
dave
The outer frame of the Scanspeak is round with 170mm outer diameter, this will fit exactly. The Fostex is squarish, with "ear to ear" length of 174mm, so the frame won't fit into the recessed hole without a little filing. Not a big deal.
The only question is if I want to go the route of full range driver. I have not heard a full range hifi driver so I have no idea if I would like it. I am not allergic to coloration (distortion) but when I heard the Andrew Jones ELAC B6 (a 2-way) I do find it missing treble.
The only question is if I want to go the route of full range driver. I have not heard a full range hifi driver so I have no idea if I would like it. I am not allergic to coloration (distortion) but when I heard the Andrew Jones ELAC B6 (a 2-way) I do find it missing treble.
My room is about 3x5.5m. The listening area is much smaller, I am less than 2m from the speakers.
I listen to mostly vocals with few instruments, also some pop like stuffs with more full range sounds. Volume would be moderate, sometimes soft at night, never loud.
My sound preference is, a warm and fully fleshed midrange, as opposed to thin. No piercing or fatiguing treble, treble should be present but smooth and extended. I care more about what sounds good to me than what measures well, I don’t like speakers that sounds like studio monitors.
I listen to mostly vocals with few instruments, also some pop like stuffs with more full range sounds. Volume would be moderate, sometimes soft at night, never loud.
My sound preference is, a warm and fully fleshed midrange, as opposed to thin. No piercing or fatiguing treble, treble should be present but smooth and extended. I care more about what sounds good to me than what measures well, I don’t like speakers that sounds like studio monitors.
Bad news, I looked at the numbers wrong . I thought 174mm is the outer rim diameter, it turns out it is the screw to screw distance. The diagram is kinda tiny.
My current screw hole distance is 162. If I were to drill the ff165wk, this would be on the rubber insert. And I would have to cut off the ears almost entirely.
If I were to match the screw holes to the ff165wk, it is even more problematic. The screw would be touching the step, so the grip will be weak. There would be holes on the 4 sides of the driver. And I won't be able to install the tweeter, so more hole.
My current screw hole distance is 162. If I were to drill the ff165wk, this would be on the rubber insert. And I would have to cut off the ears almost entirely.
If I were to match the screw holes to the ff165wk, it is even more problematic. The screw would be touching the step, so the grip will be weak. There would be holes on the 4 sides of the driver. And I won't be able to install the tweeter, so more hole.
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