Scottmoose and planet10, this is for us - the Calhoun.

[planet10]

While waiting for someone to answer, and it is too dark to make sawdust, I decided to look for a pair of driver to put into the shadow that would give it a bit more oomph...

We do know that the CSS SD12 works in Shadow with the simple expedient of increasing the internal width to 10".

Vas on the Dayton is quite a bit different, so it probably would need a few changes.

dave

 

[Scottmoose]

They should go into Shadow fairly well. I reckon the CSS version and driver will have the edge though, good as Daytons usually are.

Another alternative is the 15in HiVi M12 magnesium unit mentioned before in this thread. One of those will again drop straight into Shadow, or if you boost internal width, you get this: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1156612#post1156612

 

[aceinc]

Thanks for the reply, the reason I chose the Dayton was because the VAS is similar to the Extremis 6.8, which is 1.16 vs 1.2 cubic feet for the Dayton. Using WinIsd it model's well with the enclosure size and port geometry in the Shadow.

Since it appears a little deep for the cabinet, but the other parameters look good , including the volume, I thought you could build out the sides with either round (donuts) or rectangular baffle extenders. If you made them stepped, like the horn, it would add character to the enclosure as well.

Regarding my project, I have cut most of the pieces, and have started putting the cabinet together, the one piece I haven't done yet is the piece that makes up the port.

I do not have a garage, just a shed to keep my tools in so I need to work outside, and it has been raining off & on yesterday & today. so progress is slow.

Paul

 

[CLS]

This statement conjures up a question: what if you made a stacked array of horizontal curved chang cabinets?

This is quoted from page4, and inspires me into a big bass module.

I have 2 pairs of Eminence 18 inchers. Would it be too exaggerated to build a pair of such boxes:

The overall frontal area will be slightly larger than 1 sq.meter, I think.

Will it sound good? Or just a massive one note boom box?

And, how large is the difference between this and a vented box placed near a corner? (with vents on the back, of course)


ps. I don't intend to divorce, though.

 

[CLS]

I'm sorry I should have posted my reply here, instead of:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1314052#post1314052

Could any moderator help moving it here?

 

[pinkmouse]

Could any moderator help moving it here?

Sorted.

 

[Cal Weldon]

Question for Scott, Dave or anyone else who wishes to chime in here:

I am wondering if the Shadow is tuned too low. While the depth is nice it seems to lack a bit of warmth. Almost as if the Q is too low or...?

The box is lightly stuffed and there is no stuffing in the throat.

http://www.frugal-horn.com/spawn-plans.html

Can I shorten the length of the throat and what effect might that have? If I can, may I drill holes on the inside piece of the throat instead of actually shortening it? I am guessing I would start near the top and slowly work my way down until I was happy but is there something I should be aware of here?

Is it better to add volume to the box?

Thanks in advance.

 

[tinitus]

If I may guess on too low SPL(85db?)

BTW..what happens if its laid down on its back with port facing upwards

 

[Cal Weldon]

If I may guess on too low SPL(85db?)

I'm not surprised someone suggested that in light of my other gear. It's actually more of a too cold or dry sound. Needs some warmth.

BTW..what happens if its laid down on its back with port facing upwards [/B]

That is how I use it for my portable movie theater. For music I have to face the horn into a corner.

 

[Scottmoose]

Hi Cal,

Sorry I didn't reply before -been racing about a bit today.

I can certainly understand that -the original is close to an aperiodic TL style of loading, so in balance it won't be the warmest.

With the existing box, you can shorten the throat down to 3in -this becomes more a BVR than a TL, but you'll get considerably more gain, with a faster roll-off -basically flat to 40Hz with an F10 of ~25Hz, before room-gain. In room, you should get a richer sound & the flared vent / horn / waveguide should prevent any boom etc. You should be able to drill out holes to effectively shorten the thing. Need quite a few of them of course...

We should be able to go lower (with similar gain levels), though it'd need a larger cabinet.

Scott

 

[Cal Weldon]

Thank you Scott, I'll get at 'er when the weather breaks and will report results.

 

[Cal Weldon]

Scott,

Dave had a chance to listen to the Calhoun's for the first time.

 

[planet10]

I did. And they were very good... i tried to convince him he should move everything else out and use them... Alas they weren't black

dave

 

[Scottmoose]

Great! Sorry I've been absent on the forums for a few days guys -came down with what I thought was the dreaded lurgy at the weekend, which has turned out to be bronchitis. Great fun.

Anyways, glad that you're still liking them Cal & Dave liked what they do as well. That's perked me up a bit.

 

[planet10]

Dave liked what they do as well.

I'm thinking that if the 7 litre resistive port box doesn't do it for you, you might as well go all the way to here.... do you think a single FR and half versions are doable as well?

dave

 

[Scottmoose]

Should be easy enough. I'll get onto it in the morning.

 

[fff0]

Hi guys/gals,

I read this thread with great interest especially on the Moose BVR... I was wondering if any one has any suggestions to the construction & dimension to mount a fairly large drive like a coral beta 10?

Anybody compared their BLH against this type of BVR?
Thanks in advance.

 

[Scottmoose]

No, because I don't know of any measured specs for it, and there are so few out there, a dedicated DIY design will only benefit a handful of people.

 

[edgebc]

Sachiko

Question for Scottmoose:

I tore up my giant BiB set with the Fostex 206e.
I want to build the Sachikos but I need the driver-height to be a foot higher & make the whole speaker taller. I was wondering, if this upper horn length is based on the quarter wave-length of the fs of the 206e, then could I build the bottom horn-length longer to not only raise the driver placement but also reach a complimentory harmonic soas to keep the sound "bubble" correct. The natural assumption would be to go to 1/2 wavelength. Has anyone tried this and IYHO, is it worth a shot. What are those lengths, BTW.
Thanks again.

 

[Bill Fuss]

Hi All,
I,ve read the entire thread with great interest, and I'm wondering if this cab style would be perfect for the Olson- Ariel/ME2 driver package. The published Vas for the Vifas is quite a bit higher than the WRs, being 10L, but the baffle width would need to be expanded anyway. I built the ME2s years ago and the mids are outstanding but they are much too lean. Do you think these cabs would be worth experimenting with to get an extra octave or so? Any thoughts or comments would be appreciated.

Bill