Uff... Finally finished! 
I will change the knob for sure, anyway....
As usual, I've put a remote control board to regulate the supply to a Uriah's Lightspeed... I don't want to stand up from sofa...
For a really HOTRODDED look, I really wanted the lights from Knight Rider!
But I am poor, so I've put two leds in two adhesive doorstops, so the "cheap karaoke" look is achieved!
Perfect for giving you headache in the dark:
Thank you very much guys for this wonderful project!
I will change the knob for sure, anyway....
As usual, I've put a remote control board to regulate the supply to a Uriah's Lightspeed... I don't want to stand up from sofa...
For a really HOTRODDED look, I really wanted the lights from Knight Rider!
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
But I am poor, so I've put two leds in two adhesive doorstops, so the "cheap karaoke" look is achieved!
Perfect for giving you headache in the dark:
Thank you very much guys for this wonderful project!
Looks good. How did you fit/connect the lightspeed to the DCB1 - any links or instructions?
Thanks
Thanks
Uff... Finally finished!
I will change the knob for sure, anyway....
As usual, I've put a remote control board to regulate the supply to a Uriah's Lightspeed... I don't want to stand up from sofa...
For a really HOTRODDED look, I really wanted the lights from Knight Rider!
But I am poor, so I've put two leds in two adhesive doorstops, so the "cheap karaoke" look is achieved!
Perfect for giving you headache in the dark:
Thank you very much guys for this wonderful project!
Uff... Finally finished!
Thank you very much guys for this wonderful project!
Far out lights
Uff... Finally finished!
Thank you very much guys for this wonderful project!
Lovely build - your lights are even more 'out there' than the normal build of something with Salas' regs... Well done!
bk
Hi Marcus!
Nothing difficult here: a kit from Uriah, powered by a simple 7805 reg. (followed by a JLH ripple eater) and a cheap remote control board from Ebay, like this for example:
eBay Italia - Aste online e shopping a prezzo fisso
The Lightspeed uses a dual 100k log pot for augmenting/decreasing the 5v supply to optocouplers, so I used the remote controlled pot for doing this instead of a normal one! No problem and works well...
Here you can see better in the old battery powered B1 I used before:
It turned out that the one signal wire has not been firmly inserted into the connector. After fixing it, it has been quiet.
And I am sold to the DCB1's sound. The transparent and yet very engaging sound with ample bass gasped me now. I surely will enjoy it even at this form. Not to mention the possibility of up the current and tweaking the resistor.
Thank you all for such an excellent piece of work!
Different static on both channels
Hey all,
Looking for some help with my newly cases up DCB1. I got through the initial checks fine and got LEDs up and everything. But I wired up my 20K alps pot today and got some strange behavior through my F5.
Left channel: At no volume, dead quiet. But with increasing volume, I get increasing music with increasing static. Very obvious, not subtle in any way.
Right channel: At no volume, dead quiet. With increasing volume, first thing I get is static. Then music comes on but much more softly than the left channel. Both music and static increase with volume, but like I said, the music is much quieter than in the left channel.
I can't help but think that I messed up the pot wiring, but I double checked and it looks fine. It's not like it's that complicated anyway. I verfied the input grounds are connected. Checked the same for the output grounds.
It's not hum so I don't think it's a ground issue. It's static.
Any ideas?
Hey all,
Looking for some help with my newly cases up DCB1. I got through the initial checks fine and got LEDs up and everything. But I wired up my 20K alps pot today and got some strange behavior through my F5.
Left channel: At no volume, dead quiet. But with increasing volume, I get increasing music with increasing static. Very obvious, not subtle in any way.
Right channel: At no volume, dead quiet. With increasing volume, first thing I get is static. Then music comes on but much more softly than the left channel. Both music and static increase with volume, but like I said, the music is much quieter than in the left channel.
I can't help but think that I messed up the pot wiring, but I double checked and it looks fine. It's not like it's that complicated anyway. I verfied the input grounds are connected. Checked the same for the output grounds.
It's not hum so I don't think it's a ground issue. It's static.
Any ideas?
Hi, Skylab!
In this DCB1 I have no input selection, because only one input...
In the remote control kit I linked before there's anyway a selection board with 5 relais for 5 inputs, anyway, quite easy to use...
The only volume indicator I have is the spot on the volume knob...
Are you sure you mean static or just noise as you turn the pot ?
Don't forget this is the DC B1 so you may have DC across the pot which will cause noise as you turn it.
To iron this one out simply try connecting 1uF caps to the wipers and the inputs of the pot.
This will not give you the DC connection that you are looking for but it will point you in the right direction as to where to look for the source of the noise.
You don't need to be choosy about the caps at this stage - Polydrops will do just fine.
Don't forget this is the DC B1 so you may have DC across the pot which will cause noise as you turn it.
To iron this one out simply try connecting 1uF caps to the wipers and the inputs of the pot.
This will not give you the DC connection that you are looking for but it will point you in the right direction as to where to look for the source of the noise.
You don't need to be choosy about the caps at this stage - Polydrops will do just fine.
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I had something similar to static in a decent project, during turn on for a minute.
Turned out to be a bad solder joint, trying to solder in a small wire into a big hole
I would measure the usual places - where the power supply section stops for voltages there - and across the 2SK's, and then the output as well for DC offset, AND AC.
If you got a scope that would help
Turned out to be a bad solder joint, trying to solder in a small wire into a big hole
I would measure the usual places - where the power supply section stops for voltages there - and across the 2SK's, and then the output as well for DC offset, AND AC.
If you got a scope that would help
back
Hello, all. My DCB1 is back and kicking with gorgeous sound. I've resoldered all my rca-to-pot-to-board-to-rca connections and changed wiring a bit. Now I've got 2 separate L-R grounding wires running to the pot's ground lugs and then 2 wires to PCB. They join only at PCB input. Then, 2 ground wires run from PCB output to L-R RCAs separately.
This was not the case before. Previously, I had L-R rca grounds connected with a short bus wire and ran one wire to all following connections from it.
I still have first steps of my stepped attenuator not working properly. Crackling and huming when touched. Again, on first two, three steps only. But it all can be due to dust as it's not a sealed one. It was on a shelf for some time. I'll report after cleaning.
Revising soldering, I think, helped a lot in this case. Watching these very helpful lessons (all asociated recommended):
Basic soldering lesssons revealed major mistakes I was into.
Wiring rethinking and soldering lessons spotting credit goes to Salas.
Thanks, again!
Now I would like to rethink my transistor mounting.
The sinks are running around 45 degrees celsius. DCB1 is hot-rodded with 5R current resistors, around 400mA.
Here's the link to my sinks. 75mm ones. So 3,6 °C/W.
How high I could run my bias with these remains a question for me. But first I would be glad to read or watch proper mounting instructions.
Thank you all for your help.
Hello, all. My DCB1 is back and kicking with gorgeous sound. I've resoldered all my rca-to-pot-to-board-to-rca connections and changed wiring a bit. Now I've got 2 separate L-R grounding wires running to the pot's ground lugs and then 2 wires to PCB. They join only at PCB input. Then, 2 ground wires run from PCB output to L-R RCAs separately.
This was not the case before. Previously, I had L-R rca grounds connected with a short bus wire and ran one wire to all following connections from it.
I still have first steps of my stepped attenuator not working properly. Crackling and huming when touched. Again, on first two, three steps only. But it all can be due to dust as it's not a sealed one. It was on a shelf for some time. I'll report after cleaning.
Revising soldering, I think, helped a lot in this case. Watching these very helpful lessons (all asociated recommended):
Basic soldering lesssons revealed major mistakes I was into.
Wiring rethinking and soldering lessons spotting credit goes to Salas.
Thanks, again!
Now I would like to rethink my transistor mounting.
The sinks are running around 45 degrees celsius. DCB1 is hot-rodded with 5R current resistors, around 400mA.
Here's the link to my sinks. 75mm ones. So 3,6 °C/W.
How high I could run my bias with these remains a question for me. But first I would be glad to read or watch proper mounting instructions.
Thank you all for your help.
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Try it and see. I found that the heat started to RAMP-UP considerably above a certain point.
At 600mA I had to throttle back a bit. I opted for 120mA, I could probably have gone for 300mA but I was fed up with changing resistors for no audible gain IMO.
See Post #1795 I seem to recall that my Maplin 2E heatsinks were about 3.6 Deg C/Watt but I only have the two of them.
At 600mA I had to throttle back a bit. I opted for 120mA, I could probably have gone for 300mA but I was fed up with changing resistors for no audible gain IMO.
See Post #1795 I seem to recall that my Maplin 2E heatsinks were about 3.6 Deg C/Watt but I only have the two of them.
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Ground the pot's body. There must be some handy metallic point on it to run a wire from.
It's grounded to a case via stand off bracket which holds it near to keep wires short. A screw connects the bracket to the bottom of the case.
I will eventually try increasing bias. Salas, you nicely put the advantages in post #378.
But first would like to know what's the safe bet with these sinks.