Salas hotrodded blue DCB1 build

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Without those 1 Ohm resistors or jumpers in their marked "1" places, the circuit will not be complete and it will not work.

For 600mA you would need about 2 Ohm 5W resistors where it's marked 10/5W. Keep their pins bit long so their bodies won't touch the board because air must move around them.
 
Hi there. Dcb1 almost finished and my input selector seems to be acting funny. I have 3 inputs wired and a 3 position stereo selector switch. With input 1 plugged in, I get sound with the switch selecting input 2 and also input 3 but NO sound with the switch selecting input 1. With input 2 plugged in, I get sound with the switch selecting input 1 and input 3 but NO sound with the switch selecting input 2. Lastly with input 3 plugged in, you guessed it... I get sound with the switch selecting input 1 and input 2 but NO sound when selecting input 3. I triple checked that my switch wiring is correct using my dmm. I triple checked for solder bridges. The relays I used are here:

http://www.mouser.com/Search/m_Prod...onics/G6S-2-DC12/&qs=QGk6feVlqMLN9Ouv0QsFzA==

This seems like a very consistent and unusual pattern. Any ideas what I am missing? The sound that does come out is incredible! Eager to get it buttoned up. Thanks.

Corey


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I don't remember those relays as previously recommended. Check your relays datasheet against NEC EA2-12NJ datasheet (non latched type) for possible pin order or connection logic differences. If there is no incompatibility there, remember that a stereo selector switch should utilize only its one side with each 1,2,3 pin closing the DC path through each respective relay coil to ground which is routed via the selector's output pin of the same side attached to the GND designated end of selector row PCB pad
 
I don't remember those relays as previously recommended. Check your relays datasheet against NEC EA2-12NJ datasheet (non latched type) for possible pin order or connection logic differences. If there is no incompatibility there, remember that a stereo selector switch should utilize only its one side with each 1,2,3 pin closing the DC path through each respective relay coil to ground which is routed via the selector's output pin of the same side attached to the GND designated end of selector row PCB pad

Salas- Thanks, please see attached photos of the NEC relay pin diagram (first) and my Omron (second). Seems pretty different. Oops. I will order the NEC relays you mention. Any tips on desoldering the original relays? There is space enough to cut the pins also and use a tool to poke through the hole while applying heat to push out the pin remnants. I just don't want to damage the board.

My mistake was not realizing the difference in some relays goes beyond just electrical characteristics and extends to actual pin layout differences as well.
 

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diyAudio Chief Moderator
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They look like designed for the same operation but the second row pins which we also connect in this circuit are skipped in yours when all pins are there and the last ones are not connected (NC) instead in the types we use as standard here. You named the attachments the other way around BTW.
You would normally need a vacuum desoldering station for cleanest removal. Have a look in this cheap substitute before you attempt cutting and poking though, search Amazon for "Velleman VTDESOL3U Vacuum Desoldering Pump With Heater 30W". Maybe helpful enough before it clogs up soon and needs cleaning and lubing or the low quality tip wears out.