I redesigned BOZ PCB to fit in same enclosure with DCB1 , kinda crowded in mine ...
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An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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DCB1 ready for gain stage LoL - [picture heavy]
Here is my build :
MODU all aluminum case with 10mm Faceplate, laser engraved - with oversized solid aluminum knobs and SS vandal switch wired to AMB LABS soft start ...
ELMA 2 position rotary switch for input selector, And KHOZMO Attenuator mounted on 5mm aluminum brackets and connected to SS extension rods with aluminum couplers ...
Antek Inc. transformer in Antek transformer cover - laser engraved ...
Yeah, some Z-Foils, Caddocs, Silmics etc, etc ...
Multicap capacitor on shunt ...
Oversized SS Screws ensure solid tight contacts with heatsinks ...
Input RCAs, on back plate, laser engraved
Khozmo attenuator 20kOhm, with custom PCB and Z-Foils soldered ...
External processor loop RCAs with switch - for equalizer or what ever ...
Miniature linear Ball Bearings mounted on front faceplate to ensure smooth and quiet 42 steps attenuator operation ...
Custom PCBS for RCAs and Swith on rear plate ...
Teflon silver plated copper wire soldered to input selector ...
... and waiting for Bride Of Zen Gain stage to be done ...
To Be Continued ...
Thnx for looking and sorry for heavy pics ....
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Here is my build :
MODU all aluminum case with 10mm Faceplate, laser engraved - with oversized solid aluminum knobs and SS vandal switch wired to AMB LABS soft start ...
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
ELMA 2 position rotary switch for input selector, And KHOZMO Attenuator mounted on 5mm aluminum brackets and connected to SS extension rods with aluminum couplers ...
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Antek Inc. transformer in Antek transformer cover - laser engraved ...
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Yeah, some Z-Foils, Caddocs, Silmics etc, etc ...
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Multicap capacitor on shunt ...
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Oversized SS Screws ensure solid tight contacts with heatsinks ...
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Input RCAs, on back plate, laser engraved
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Khozmo attenuator 20kOhm, with custom PCB and Z-Foils soldered ...
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
External processor loop RCAs with switch - for equalizer or what ever ...
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Miniature linear Ball Bearings mounted on front faceplate to ensure smooth and quiet 42 steps attenuator operation ...
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Custom PCBS for RCAs and Swith on rear plate ...
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Teflon silver plated copper wire soldered to input selector ...
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
... and waiting for Bride Of Zen Gain stage to be done ...
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
To Be Continued ...
Thnx for looking and sorry for heavy pics ....
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Hum, something like this :
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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Hmm.. I got 2mV on one channel, rock steady but on the other channel it's constantly changing between about 300 to 800mV. It seems to jump in stages to about 800mv then drops and starts rising again. I just measured it again and it went up to 1v and bounced around there for a while. After a few more measurements it seems to start around 100mV and then climbs gradually in up and down steps. It seems to stabilise at about 1v but it only climbs when I measure it.
On Vout I get +9.86 and -9.89. Vdrop across the two 10 Ohm CCS resistors is 1.63v and 1.73
Any ideas what the problem could be?
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That's very odd, never reported before. Check for cold joints, knock lightly on some semis with a screwdriver while on, rework with the iron. Especially for the signal JFETS on the weird channel. Make sure it never occurs again at any time, before attempting connection to an audio sysyem especially if there is a DC coupled power amp there.
Panic over I dabbed each solder pad and it's now still 2mV rock solid on one channel and jumping a little between 1.3 and 1.7mV on the other (never higher or lower).
Thanks for the support fellas, it's all looking good. Pictures to follow when I case it up. I found some good cheap heatsinks from Hong Kong that stayed at 40C throughout. I'll dig out the link for those as well.
I dabbed each solder pad and it's now still 2mV rock solid on one channel and jumping a little between 1.3 and 1.7mV on the other (never higher or lower).Thanks for the support fellas, it's all looking good. Pictures to follow when I case it up. I found some good cheap heatsinks from Hong Kong that stayed at 40C throughout. I'll dig out the link for those as well.
Hi,
I have been using dcb1 without problem. My regulator is in a separate panel, so I could use it for another project. But at the second board for some reason on the + side on the resistors 4V is dropping instead of 2V (like drops on the - side). The regulator works fine, other voltages are also fine, just that side is lot hotter, specially for the sinks I use. Can be that the first IRF was not working fine and only dropped 2V instead of about 4V? The whole regulator schematic is identical to the 4th post.
I wanted to measure the voltages between the legs of the IRF and as soon as I touched the multimeters pin to the legs, the 5 leds went dark on that side. No smoke, nothing, just went dark and turn off turn on doesn't help. The 3 leds are still glowig and the - side still works fine. Measured all resistors and they are fine, leds work, so more or less the IRFs remain. Or one of the 2sk170, but i don't know if it can cause to drop 4V instead of 2V on the resistors anyway. What components should I measure and how to figure out the cause of the problem?
Thanks.
I have been using dcb1 without problem. My regulator is in a separate panel, so I could use it for another project. But at the second board for some reason on the + side on the resistors 4V is dropping instead of 2V (like drops on the - side). The regulator works fine, other voltages are also fine, just that side is lot hotter, specially for the sinks I use. Can be that the first IRF was not working fine and only dropped 2V instead of about 4V? The whole regulator schematic is identical to the 4th post.
I wanted to measure the voltages between the legs of the IRF and as soon as I touched the multimeters pin to the legs, the 5 leds went dark on that side. No smoke, nothing, just went dark and turn off turn on doesn't help. The 3 leds are still glowig and the - side still works fine. Measured all resistors and they are fine, leds work, so more or less the IRFs remain. Or one of the 2sk170, but i don't know if it can cause to drop 4V instead of 2V on the resistors anyway. What components should I measure and how to figure out the cause of the problem?
Thanks.
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Wow, I love the design with that font and those knobs, it's very art-deco-y. Absolutely love it.
Is perfect match for my F5 build ...
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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Yeah, it's very pretty. I've always loved that 30s - 40s style, like the rocketeer or Bioshock the video game.
Fortunately it was a bad joint. One of the legs didn't get enough juice and when I tried to measure, completely broke it. Not it works fine.
Now one side measures 3.4, other 3.7Vgs, meaning a bit more amp on that side, but it is not that much.
Strangely the shunt worked just fine for weeks with that half dead joint.
