Measure them all carefully to see where they hover for IDSS. Non matched below 10mA you can use around in the shunt regulators. They should work there too.
Transformer coupling does NOT block DC.
The transformer primary passes all the DC applied to it from the Source.
That DC can permanently damage the performance of the coupling transformer.
use the continuity function of your DMM.
Check across NO contacts and then across NC contacts to be sure they are actually switching. A high resistance when closed would indicate corrosion due to no use or to damage from overheating.
Repeated ON/OFF cycling will gradually "wipe" away storage corrosion.
Check across NO contacts and then across NC contacts to be sure they are actually switching. A high resistance when closed would indicate corrosion due to no use or to damage from overheating.
Repeated ON/OFF cycling will gradually "wipe" away storage corrosion.
Not now, there will be some late guys complementary general sooner or later. But looking for input selection also, makes you a Mezmerize version guy I guess. And that one is on the DIYA store. Just keep in mind that if you got an insensitive power amp and insensitive speakers its better you look for a line stage with 10-15dB of gain. For a phono source, you will need it. If you must obtain the power amp's full wattage at times I mean.
My plan is to build a chipamp ala my-ref kinda box, shouldn't be insensitive. Mainly I'm looking for the selector stuff and probably a way to set the input sensitivity of the channels to get the same volume when I switch between inputs so the preamp might or might not be an issue. Of course it should be invisible except for the knob chooser
The rest is my old Linn Kans telling me if the choise was right in a very congested studio - my shed well dampened with bits and pieces resonating on all walls Now I'm using an old pioneer integrated A303, a bit modified. Works very well - just missing the schematics to do more on this one. A chipamp will be easier to modify to ones liking as the people behind it probably are here in one corner or another.Regards
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Set the chipamp at 30dB gain if possible and it will be rather OK with a buffer for nearfield monitoring in a small space although the Linn Kans won't be really dynamic its better you don't pound them with power either. An old friend had Kans on Quad II's and they were sweet and rather fulsome when set very near the front wall as I remember them.
Quite so Salas
These have been battered and repaired in many ways during the last 25 years with many different setups. As my studios - I couln´t be without them. Never.But, how would your dream of a selector look like? Think of this as I only wanted to improve line in on your everyday receiver
Regards
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Quite so Salas
But, how would your dream of a selector look like? Think of this as I only wanted to improve line in on your everyday receiver
Regards
The Mezmerize has 6 places for best quality signal relays like NAIS or NEC integrated with short paths to the DCB1 on same board, so I guess they will be alright for your switching. A member in Spain has done comparisons in a professional studio once, he had also provided some dedicated Tektronix audio analyzer measurements and he was very happy with it.
A DMM when no power is applied shows all relays are made -- 2-3-4 all made and 9-8-7.
I could test that the output rca pin and sleeve are independent when power is applied (they are not when no power is applied) but I am concerned that it won't click on... can that damage anything (eg output transistors) if they remain shorted?
Also, can I use a BC547 in place of the BC550 beside the BC517?
I have acquired all parts except for that single BC550 at this point. There is casework to do, but I really want to hear it!!!!
Thanks! Of course, I could just take the relay out and jumper the NO contacts....
When wiring the inputs to the potentiometer, do you connect the RCA sleeve to the ground on the pot and then the pot to the ground on the board or do you run a separate line from each rca sleeve and pot to the ground on the buffer board? ie star ground for sleeves and pot. The board ground would be the center pin of the input connector.
When wiring the inputs to the potentiometer, do you connect the RCA sleeve to the ground on the pot and then the pot to the ground on the board or do you run a separate line from each rca sleeve and pot to the ground on the buffer board? ie star ground for sleeves and pot. The board ground would be the center pin of the input connector.
OK, so I got the unit powered up, but one half of the relay failed to switch. Now, just to get another relay. The casework nearly enables use, but it's not completed yet....
The voltages are +/- 10.30 volts *Exactly* on both sides.
The potentiometer is a TKD and claims to be 10K, but measuring shows it to be just 8.3K ohms.
Is this potentially a problem? It will have an op27 opamp playing into it....
The voltages are +/- 10.30 volts *Exactly* on both sides.
The potentiometer is a TKD and claims to be 10K, but measuring shows it to be just 8.3K ohms.
Is this potentially a problem? It will have an op27 opamp playing into it....