Rythmik Sub Kit

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Ray Collins said:
darien87,
Looks like a good job!!! I don't think you used enough screws?!:bigeyes:

I don't have any experience with vinyl covering. If you aren't married just paint it Black and go with the Industrial Look?;)

Ray
LOL, I know. I ended up running out of screws and had to go back and buy more. I think there is about 150 screws in there. Cut me some slack, it was my first box.

Unfortunately I am married. But I wanted to try and match it to my furniture anyway. We'll see how it goes.
 
EricH said:
The PE vinyl is very easy to work with. Just allow for a little extra vinyl overlap, and use a veneer edge trimmer to get a nice clean cut.
Thanks Eric. I bought the vinyl and the Band-it edge trimmer. We'll see how it goes. Unfortunately, some of the edges aren't completely flush with each other. I may have to sand some of the edges down.
 
Ray Collins said:
darien87,
I assume that you have a router since the driver hole turned out so well; if so, use a flush trim/laminate bit to trim the edges. It has a bearing on the tip of the bit to guide it...very easy to use and produces Excellent Results.

Ray
Thanks Ray. But nope, no router. I just drew the circles with a compass and cut them by hand with a jigssaw.
 
This Rythmik sub F'in rocks!!! A friend came over yesterday to check it out and brought a test tone CD. The sub was hitting 16hz, and probably would go lower, but that was the lowest tone on the CD!!! This is definitely an awesome sub for the money. All together, it cost me about $550 in electronics and materials. I would recommend this sub to ANYONE. Even if you have the money to spend 2 or 3 grand on a sub, why?!?! I guess if you're the type of person that has to buy expensive things just for bragging rights, then this sub isn't for you. But if you like to get a great deal, and enjoy the satisfaction you get from building things yourself, you can't go wrong with a Rythmik sub.
 
Raoul said:
You might want to pull the driver and paint the rebated area black before you install the vinyl for a finished look. Glad to hear you like the sound.
Forgive my ignorance guys, but what do you mean by "rebated area"? Is that the recess on the bottom where the sub sits? If so, I'm just going to leave that alone. It's a bottom-firing sub, so no one's going to see the bottom anyway.
 
Recently I also set up a Rythmik DS12" sealed kit, with another one coming. I can certainly recommend them. The first thing I noticed is the absence of all the extra distortion with other subs. The bass is very clean, and this is also true with acoustic double bass which can often show up a sub as a poor reproducer or music. I don't think many subs out there are suitable for music, despite rave reviews to the contrary.

Regarding SPL, if you compare the Rythmik kits to other options, you are hitting the law of diminishing returns to get more. It's a 12" or 15" sub with 18mm xmax which only needs 350w. You can get more output by a vented design. You can also get more output with more power and higher xmax. Considering the compromises involved, I think it makes more sense to use more subs. To get more output with just one sub means compromises to SQ and extra expense.

I believe subs like SVS use drivers with slightly higher xmax (more like 23mm) and put them in large vented boxes to get higher output. You can do the same with a Rythmik sub. If you put two 15" kits in a big vented box you will get very similar SPL, and the extra 10mm of xmax will make little difference. Probably 3db which isn't much.

In the past I could hear when my subs were on. The bass was less defined but more powerful when compared to my TL mains. Now I have the extra oomph but it's not obvious that they are on. A surprise was that they are more dynamic. There is a little more punch.

One of the main weaknesses of many subs these days is that they are designed to survive large excursions. When playing music at modest levels, the demands are low, but the sound is dominated by the linearity of the suspension which has been designed for large excursion. This is where the servo makes a big difference. You can hear the character of the original - the subtle nuances. It reminds me of the sound of Focal audiom drivers which just for the driver costs more than this kit, yet without being up to the task of movies, and without an amp.

I've heard comments that this kit is every bit as good as some of the most musical commercial servo subs - Velodyne, Paradigm and Martin Logan. I've also heard comments that the Rythmik is more musical than Avalanche, Tumult and SVS subs. I find it hard to believe that any sub could in fact be more accurate than the Rythmik kits.
 
For servo subs there are only really two options:

1. Rythmik Direct Servo - driver and amp together
2. Buy a commercial version like Paradigm, Martin Logan or Velodyne for a LOT more money

The driver and amp must be designed to work together and can't be separated. The driver needs to have a mechanism built in to generate a feedback signal and the amp has to have the means to process that signal and correct it.
 
All right, here's the finished product.

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


I'm not very happy with how the vinyl laminate came out. Unfortunately, this one from Parts Express was the closest color I could find to my dark brown furniture. I think it looks like the little fridge I had in my dorm room in college.:dead:

About halfway through the vinyl process, the wife goes, "Why didn't you just paint it black?" :mad: Maybe I'll just do that.
 
I think it's better to have an obvious difference or a very close match. The "closest thing" can often be the worst thing! Have you considered veneer matched to the other furniture with stain? I'd go with either that or black paint. Or you could do a black laminate.

jwt, you could post a new thread and see if anyone in your area will build it for you.
 
veener match

Darien,

When finishing speaker boxes I always use nice plywood. I stain it as paulspencer suggested, and then varnish/laquer it. Looks really good and is much easier to match with other furniture as there are quite many stains to choose from.

cheers,
 
Re: veener match

janusz said:
Darien,

When finishing speaker boxes I always use nice plywood. I stain it as paulspencer suggested, and then varnish/laquer it. Looks really good and is much easier to match with other furniture as there are quite many stains to choose from.

cheers,
Thanks Janus,

I don't know if you'd be able to help me, being in the land of Oz and all, but do you have any suggestions on where to get the plywood? I did see sheets of wood at Home Depot, but they were about 1/4" thick and I wasn't sure what to do with the edges, (you could totally tell that it was a piece of plywood from the side).

By the way, my favorite kicker of all time for the San Diego Chargers, Darren Bennett, was from Perth. Great kicker and a great guy.
 
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