Making my own PRNW2 module out of discrete parts didnt help. The amp still turns on in protection mode.
Ive been studying the scematics you gave to me and I have a question about two Capacitors; C8 and C9. The schematics match what is on the board - 47uF 16v NP electrolytic. I pulled them off the board and what I found was stenciled on the board a polorized sign. Should these caps be polorized or non? Unfortunately I dont have replacements or I would have just given replacing them a try. They were removed before me also.
Ive been studying the scematics you gave to me and I have a question about two Capacitors; C8 and C9. The schematics match what is on the board - 47uF 16v NP electrolytic. I pulled them off the board and what I found was stenciled on the board a polorized sign. Should these caps be polorized or non? Unfortunately I dont have replacements or I would have just given replacing them a try. They were removed before me also.
They need to be NP caps. They are not the problem (if the schematic matches your amp).
With Q1 out, the amp doesn't go into protect so that would seem to indicate that something driving Q1 is the problem. You removed Q2/3 and the amp still goes into protect mode. That eliminates everything connected to Q2/3. You broke the connection to the diode in the PRNW2 module, that would break the connection to everything in the over-current circuit. You replaced the components in the module and checked the capacitor on Q1. There isn't any component left to check as far as I can see. Were any of the capacitors you removed leaking electrolyte?
Do any of the traces for that part of the circuit pass under any large electrolytic capacitors?
With Q1 out, the amp doesn't go into protect so that would seem to indicate that something driving Q1 is the problem. You removed Q2/3 and the amp still goes into protect mode. That eliminates everything connected to Q2/3. You broke the connection to the diode in the PRNW2 module, that would break the connection to everything in the over-current circuit. You replaced the components in the module and checked the capacitor on Q1. There isn't any component left to check as far as I can see. Were any of the capacitors you removed leaking electrolyte?
Do any of the traces for that part of the circuit pass under any large electrolytic capacitors?
Perry,
Do you have a diagram for the PRNW1 / NW4 near the LM358? The module itself has PRNW19350 and is 10 pins with three pins offset on the right.
I've pulled this module and am testing it internally against the schematic you emailed me. So far I think I may have found a problem with one of it's two internal diodes but I just need to make more than an aligation about it; the diodes in the middle seem to be a little inconclusive. I tried mapping out this part myself.
-Correction to the diagram. The two 12k are actually measuring 13k.
Do you have a diagram for the PRNW1 / NW4 near the LM358? The module itself has PRNW19350 and is 10 pins with three pins offset on the right.
I've pulled this module and am testing it internally against the schematic you emailed me. So far I think I may have found a problem with one of it's two internal diodes but I just need to make more than an aligation about it; the diodes in the middle seem to be a little inconclusive. I tried mapping out this part myself.
-Correction to the diagram. The two 12k are actually measuring 13k.
Attachments
I've also pulled several large and small caps in and around the PCB near Q1 thru Q6. All are measuring good. I also pulled off the 5W resistors and they are good too.
No traces have sign of disconnection from what my eyes can tell.
What about Therm TH1? In the schematic it shows TH1/100K. I pulled one leg off the board and its measuring ~93K. It must change with temperature.
No traces have sign of disconnection from what my eyes can tell.
What about Therm TH1? In the schematic it shows TH1/100K. I pulled one leg off the board and its measuring ~93K. It must change with temperature.
Thanks for that but it didnt help. Amp still goes into protection mode with the 3906 2-3 swap. With Q1 off the board the amp powers up fine. I'm almost tempted to leave it like that.
This amp is going to a collector; who has lots and lots of amps rare and the like. This one will likely never be installed in a car. The collector is already happy enough that the amp runs w/o protection circuitry. Next up from his arsenol is a Memphis Belle which he says is huge. He has about 75 amps al of which are mainly rare, expensive, and old, like that Orion Beast 2250 I fixed 2 weeks back.
Should I give this amp back to him with Q1 uninstalled?
BTW most of these amps I've been reparing have been for fun and I'm generally only charging people for parts. Some stuff I sell but its nothing. I've turned this into a hobby and not a business for profit.
This amp is going to a collector; who has lots and lots of amps rare and the like. This one will likely never be installed in a car. The collector is already happy enough that the amp runs w/o protection circuitry. Next up from his arsenol is a Memphis Belle which he says is huge. He has about 75 amps al of which are mainly rare, expensive, and old, like that Orion Beast 2250 I fixed 2 weeks back.
Should I give this amp back to him with Q1 uninstalled?
BTW most of these amps I've been reparing have been for fun and I'm generally only charging people for parts. Some stuff I sell but its nothing. I've turned this into a hobby and not a business for profit.
You'll have to ask him what to do. If you return it to him with the protection circuit disabled, you should put a note on the amp that it shouldn't be used unless he's willing to risk significant damage to the amp and/or speakers if something fails.
Did you try contacting Steve to see if he could supply the schematic diagram?
Did you try contacting Steve to see if he could supply the schematic diagram?
Hello from Germany.
This is a very good forum.
Sorry but my English is only school-English.
I think 0.3V at the outputs are to much.
Did you already checked the networks ANW6?
If you check the networks for leak DC you have to use a special voltmeter.
I use a Part for checking the isolation of wires.
The voltage for testing is more than 100 Volts.
This is a very good forum.
Sorry but my English is only school-English.
I think 0.3V at the outputs are to much.
Did you already checked the networks ANW6?
If you check the networks for leak DC you have to use a special voltmeter.
I use a Part for checking the isolation of wires.
The voltage for testing is more than 100 Volts.
Unfortunately i returned this amp to the owner/collector. He has a lot of amps in his collection, several ZED amps including Hifonics Zeus, Mars, Planet Audio... and thats just his ZED amps. He has been told not to use this Rodek except for demonstrations and testing as the entire protection system is disabled. The amp plays fine on the bench and he was OK with that. I can get the amp back from him for more trobleshooting if I get some definatives.
I sent Steve Mantz a PM for the schematic however I have not heard back from him on that or the question of module availability.
Wondering though... I thought we disabled the DC offset protection circuit and the amp still wouldnt not power out of protection mode.
I sent Steve Mantz a PM for the schematic however I have not heard back from him on that or the question of module availability.
Wondering though... I thought we disabled the DC offset protection circuit and the amp still wouldnt not power out of protection mode.
It's a meter to test insulation. They commonly apply up to 1000v DC to check for resistance. Compared to a multimeter that applies no more than about 3v DC.
Fluke 1587/1577 Insulation Multimeters, Insulation Testers - Fluke
Fluke 1587/1577 Insulation Multimeters, Insulation Testers - Fluke
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