the only 24.9ohm resistor i can have from my supplier are military grade does it change something ?
Dale / Vishay
Resistor; Metal Film; Res 24.9 Ohms; Pwr-Rtg 0.25 W; Tol 1%; Axial; Military
if the military grade are not good... would it matter if instead i would take some 22.1 or 30.1 ohm standard resistors if i change THEM ALL so they match ?? is it only to protect the transistor or does it impact at another level??
im about to order.. unshure about this
Dale / Vishay
Resistor; Metal Film; Res 24.9 Ohms; Pwr-Rtg 0.25 W; Tol 1%; Axial; Military
if the military grade are not good... would it matter if instead i would take some 22.1 or 30.1 ohm standard resistors if i change THEM ALL so they match ?? is it only to protect the transistor or does it impact at another level??
im about to order.. unshure about this
the best i can get from my supplier is Aavid Thermalcote
Aavid Thermalloy - 249G - Chemicals - Chemicals & Adhesives - Allied Electronics
looks good enough .. non-curring, same temp specs and composition as yours ... dont know if its as good but it looks ok ...
is there some shitty stuff in this category ? (like when you said NTE parts sucked for amps)
Aavid Thermalloy - 249G - Chemicals - Chemicals & Adhesives - Allied Electronics
looks good enough .. non-curring, same temp specs and composition as yours ... dont know if its as good but it looks ok ...
is there some shitty stuff in this category ? (like when you said NTE parts sucked for amps)
allright i will try it out
seems like a good company
ok from your how to solder transistors to the heat sinks... im not english native and they are some words im not shure exactly what your talking about..
what exactly are the insulators ? (the heatsink ?)
when you say clamp a FET adjacent... you do this to keep track of the exact location of the FET to solder ?
If possible, clamp the 3 terminal jumper to the insulator. If you use too much heat, they can become desoldered.
what is a terminal jumper ?
seems like a good company
ok from your how to solder transistors to the heat sinks... im not english native and they are some words im not shure exactly what your talking about..
what exactly are the insulators ? (the heatsink ?)
when you say clamp a FET adjacent... you do this to keep track of the exact location of the FET to solder ?
If possible, clamp the 3 terminal jumper to the insulator. If you use too much heat, they can become desoldered.
what is a terminal jumper ?
what exactly are the insulators ? (the heatsink ?)
**** The aluminum strip that is between the transistor and the heatsink.
when you say clamp a FET adjacent... you do this to keep track of the exact location of the FET to solder ?
**** No. It's to keep the adjacent transistor from lifting when you're soldering down the next transistor.
If possible, clamp the 3 terminal jumper to the insulator. If you use too much heat, they can become desoldered.
what is a terminal jumper ?
**** This doesn't apply to this amp. The information was for a different amp but the same basic procedure is used.
**** The aluminum strip that is between the transistor and the heatsink.
when you say clamp a FET adjacent... you do this to keep track of the exact location of the FET to solder ?
**** No. It's to keep the adjacent transistor from lifting when you're soldering down the next transistor.
If possible, clamp the 3 terminal jumper to the insulator. If you use too much heat, they can become desoldered.
what is a terminal jumper ?
**** This doesn't apply to this amp. The information was for a different amp but the same basic procedure is used.
I am ready to order everything for this amp
I made another thread for the pioneer GMX-962 i have that also blown last year... from a lack of time i stopped playing with it but now would be the perfect time to check it out... before ordering my parts for the BD1500...
if you want to have an eye on it!! it should not be too hard since this one is 5 times simpler than the bd1500...
I made another thread for the pioneer GMX-962 i have that also blown last year... from a lack of time i stopped playing with it but now would be the perfect time to check it out... before ordering my parts for the BD1500...
if you want to have an eye on it!! it should not be too hard since this one is 5 times simpler than the bd1500...
Hi Perry
I finaly received my stuff and replaced all the FETs and their gate driver resistors and now the amp powers up fine the led lights up so i reassembled it in the case with thermal compound and tried it in the car at low volumes...
first thing i noticed is that when i turn the key on the speakers makes a big bang and also when turning of the key... it was not doing this before the onyl thing it was doing was winning from on of the transfo's so now this bing bang of speaker travel when turning the key on and off..
and after a few seconds the protect light came on and i noticed the transfo wich was blowned with the strand that touched the casing that i resolderd was REALLY i mean REALLY hot and the other one was cold... so i remember when you told me if you dont think the strand of the transfo is not repaired correctly leave it unconnected... so i cut it out from the soldering spot on the board and repowered it... now its warm but not super hot as it was before and the protect light did came of after 2 minutes... so i tried it with low volumes and it is producing sound...
so i raised up the volume and i find that it is not souding as before the bass is kind of less clear... its hard to explain ... a bit like if it was a cheap amp with poor quality output.. it plays but its not nice to my ears... so i raised up the volume to about 3/4 of what i used to listen to it to play with the crossover and nothing helps it is still sounding like **** its not that bad but definitely not as before... also i noticed even when playing for 5 minutes to about 3/4 the power.. ALL of the amp doesnt heat up except the transfo that failed and a few of the upwards transistors with the heatsinks on them... its the only thing getting warm to hot... all of the rails of FETs on each sides doesnt even change temperature it is the same temperature as the ambient air... i am asking myself... something must be wrong since its the parts that they put on the heatsink and on the case to cool them down ... they should get hot at some point .... and they are not so something must be wrong...
also i noticed when changing song when i was about 3/4 the volume...
the begining of the song is kind of long to kick in on the bass so i was waiting for it ... and then it came in... the 2 first bass notes where impeccable and loud ... something like it was before nice and clear and loud... and after that it detiorates real quick the bass sound shittier and less loud... kind of if some capacitors were charged when the song's bass was long to kick in and when it kicked the caps unloaded and then they were empty and not reloading... i am telling you what it fells to me to help you out understand what it does.. its probably not that but it is to give you an idea...
anyways
nothing like it was before... do you have a clue of what could be wrong ?
to sum it up
bass souding shittier and less loud than before after the 2 first hits
big bang when powering on and off the amp and the protect led coming on for 2-3 seconds when powering it on, then goes off and then the bang hits
nothing getting hot on the FETs rails... only the main transfo and the upwards transistors with the metal heatsink on them are getting hot..
I finaly received my stuff and replaced all the FETs and their gate driver resistors and now the amp powers up fine the led lights up so i reassembled it in the case with thermal compound and tried it in the car at low volumes...
first thing i noticed is that when i turn the key on the speakers makes a big bang and also when turning of the key... it was not doing this before the onyl thing it was doing was winning from on of the transfo's so now this bing bang of speaker travel when turning the key on and off..
and after a few seconds the protect light came on and i noticed the transfo wich was blowned with the strand that touched the casing that i resolderd was REALLY i mean REALLY hot and the other one was cold... so i remember when you told me if you dont think the strand of the transfo is not repaired correctly leave it unconnected... so i cut it out from the soldering spot on the board and repowered it... now its warm but not super hot as it was before and the protect light did came of after 2 minutes... so i tried it with low volumes and it is producing sound...
so i raised up the volume and i find that it is not souding as before the bass is kind of less clear... its hard to explain ... a bit like if it was a cheap amp with poor quality output.. it plays but its not nice to my ears... so i raised up the volume to about 3/4 of what i used to listen to it to play with the crossover and nothing helps it is still sounding like **** its not that bad but definitely not as before... also i noticed even when playing for 5 minutes to about 3/4 the power.. ALL of the amp doesnt heat up except the transfo that failed and a few of the upwards transistors with the heatsinks on them... its the only thing getting warm to hot... all of the rails of FETs on each sides doesnt even change temperature it is the same temperature as the ambient air... i am asking myself... something must be wrong since its the parts that they put on the heatsink and on the case to cool them down ... they should get hot at some point .... and they are not so something must be wrong...
also i noticed when changing song when i was about 3/4 the volume...
the begining of the song is kind of long to kick in on the bass so i was waiting for it ... and then it came in... the 2 first bass notes where impeccable and loud ... something like it was before nice and clear and loud... and after that it detiorates real quick the bass sound shittier and less loud... kind of if some capacitors were charged when the song's bass was long to kick in and when it kicked the caps unloaded and then they were empty and not reloading... i am telling you what it fells to me to help you out understand what it does.. its probably not that but it is to give you an idea...
anyways
nothing like it was before... do you have a clue of what could be wrong ?
to sum it up
bass souding shittier and less loud than before after the 2 first hits
big bang when powering on and off the amp and the protect led coming on for 2-3 seconds when powering it on, then goes off and then the bang hits
nothing getting hot on the FETs rails... only the main transfo and the upwards transistors with the metal heatsink on them are getting hot..
yes it does the same thing if i unplug the remote with the key in the on position... it does the sound when unpluging it and when plugging it...
for the dc voltage on the speaker terminals do i need the speaker and rca plugged in to check it out? cause right now i have the amp removed from the car cause i tought you would make me measure some things here and there...
I can put it in the car if i absolutely need to.. just let me know exactly .. thanks
for the dc voltage on the speaker terminals do i need the speaker and rca plugged in to check it out? cause right now i have the amp removed from the car cause i tought you would make me measure some things here and there...
I can put it in the car if i absolutely need to.. just let me know exactly .. thanks
there is a voltage surge when connecting remote to the amp and when removing it
depending on the refresh of the DMM
nothing plugged = 0V
remote plugged = fast voltage rising up to 115V then dropping to 0V (probably what makes my speakers pop...)
DMM reads ...
as soon as remote connected = 25V
after 0.5 second = 115V
after 1.0 second = 115V
after 1.5 second = 72V
after 2.0 second = 0V
then when unplugging the remote it reads 90V to start with then steadily dropping down to 0V in about 2 seconds
reads something like this on the DMM
90V
70V
50V
30V
16V
0V
and when powered on the speaker output is 0V for as long as i keep it powered ...
when powering up the amp it makes one bigger POP and when unpowering it, it kind of makes a twin or triple fast small pops
this would explain the big POP when powering .. the big 120V surge
and then the smaler pops when shutting it down
depending on the refresh of the DMM
nothing plugged = 0V
remote plugged = fast voltage rising up to 115V then dropping to 0V (probably what makes my speakers pop...)
DMM reads ...
as soon as remote connected = 25V
after 0.5 second = 115V
after 1.0 second = 115V
after 1.5 second = 72V
after 2.0 second = 0V
then when unplugging the remote it reads 90V to start with then steadily dropping down to 0V in about 2 seconds
reads something like this on the DMM
90V
70V
50V
30V
16V
0V
and when powered on the speaker output is 0V for as long as i keep it powered ...
when powering up the amp it makes one bigger POP and when unpowering it, it kind of makes a twin or triple fast small pops
this would explain the big POP when powering .. the big 120V surge
and then the smaler pops when shutting it down
U5 =
-150mV when the remote is not connected
8.22V when protect is on
8.22V when protect is off nothing different than when it is lit...
U7 =
-150mV when the remote is not connected
350mV when protect is on
270mV after protect is off
also the transfo with the broken strand is wining like a bitch...
-150mV when the remote is not connected
8.22V when protect is on
8.22V when protect is off nothing different than when it is lit...
U7 =
-150mV when the remote is not connected
350mV when protect is on
270mV after protect is off
also the transfo with the broken strand is wining like a bitch...
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