Ok thanks all again
let's assume here that my problem resides in the fact that those POS are seriously unefficient
since they are working if i put everything to the max
Now onto real stuff
how can i modify those massize woofers so that they will become alot easier to drive ??
what determines efficiency in a drivers like that?
i don't care if i have to put the scalpel through it,
i think that this massize magnet structure deserves something better than this stupid setup
tell me what to do, and i'll try and work it out!!
let's assume here that my problem resides in the fact that those POS are seriously unefficient
since they are working if i put everything to the max
Now onto real stuff
how can i modify those massize woofers so that they will become alot easier to drive ??
what determines efficiency in a drivers like that?
i don't care if i have to put the scalpel through it,
i think that this massize magnet structure deserves something better than this stupid setup
tell me what to do, and i'll try and work it out!!
Full blame goes to the suspension.....
I once modified the spider of a driver I considered to be too stiff. I cut sections out of the spider until I ended up with what looked like a wheel with 5 spokes.
The drivers I did this to had a fairly soft surrounds though. Your at the disadvantage that the surround is probably just as stiff as the spider.
I once modified the spider of a driver I considered to be too stiff. I cut sections out of the spider until I ended up with what looked like a wheel with 5 spokes.
The drivers I did this to had a fairly soft surrounds though. Your at the disadvantage that the surround is probably just as stiff as the spider.
From what I've heard and seen about the specs on this driver, it realy only has one use and that is for SPL car audio comps. I'm a formmer DB Drag world finalist in 2004, and have seen many drivers similar to this one.
This sub Idealy would be used in a small ported box, tuned high-50-65 hz in a small hatch back car ( Honda CRX is one of the perfered vehicles.) The goal is nothing other than coupling the tuning of the box with the Fs of the car. Now that you have mated frequencys, the idea is to give as much possible power now say 3000-5000 watts depending on how much 12V power you can supply.
Basicaly you have a one note wonder! The suspension is stiff to deal with the amount power and have some cone control in a box that has noth to do with the T/S parameters but the acoustics of the Car used. Hope I'have shown a little light on the subject.
This sub Idealy would be used in a small ported box, tuned high-50-65 hz in a small hatch back car ( Honda CRX is one of the perfered vehicles.) The goal is nothing other than coupling the tuning of the box with the Fs of the car. Now that you have mated frequencys, the idea is to give as much possible power now say 3000-5000 watts depending on how much 12V power you can supply.
Basicaly you have a one note wonder! The suspension is stiff to deal with the amount power and have some cone control in a box that has noth to do with the T/S parameters but the acoustics of the Car used. Hope I'have shown a little light on the subject.
this may apply to your typical thick boy racers, but not for me
when i get a car i want to design a nice bass horn for it, then cruse up next to the boy racers and drown out their crappy 3000w(yer rite) low efficiency setups.
am not entirely sure how bass horns perform in cars though, from what i hear about cabin gain im not sure there necessary
theres your answer, insert the speaker into a bass horn, that will boast its efficiency the odd 10db+, and is sure to work better than mutalating it
i think there are designs available if you have the determination to actually get that thing hearable
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not how i would design it, but you get the idea..
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2387835/1
i think there are designs available if you have the determination to actually get that thing hearable
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not how i would design it, but you get the idea..
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2387835/1
There are always people who will design for enjoyment and fidelity. That is a lasting system. then there is all the stuff designed to separate people from their cash.
It was pretty cool selling, installing and servicing audio when it was breaking. We all learned a lot. Then it all seemed to go down the tubes.
I have a Nak TD1200 somewhere and my TD700. Those were the days. I think I even still have my Concord HPL-200. $550.00 (I think) new for an AM/FM cassette (sendust head).
Those speakers would best be sold possibly to some bright eyed youth. Good drivers can be had for less money. Getting an 8" into a car in a B4 box is a challenge. It's worth it though. Look for good home audio drivers. The earlier Vifa woofers used to freeze when it got cold. I didn't believe it either - 'till it happened to me!
Getting a 10 " into a car with a B4 alignment will be next to impossible. I'd rather run 4 8" drivers in that case anyway.
-Chris
It was pretty cool selling, installing and servicing audio when it was breaking. We all learned a lot. Then it all seemed to go down the tubes.
I have a Nak TD1200 somewhere and my TD700. Those were the days. I think I even still have my Concord HPL-200. $550.00 (I think) new for an AM/FM cassette (sendust head).
Those speakers would best be sold possibly to some bright eyed youth. Good drivers can be had for less money. Getting an 8" into a car in a B4 box is a challenge. It's worth it though. Look for good home audio drivers. The earlier Vifa woofers used to freeze when it got cold. I didn't believe it either - 'till it happened to me!
Getting a 10 " into a car with a B4 alignment will be next to impossible. I'd rather run 4 8" drivers in that case anyway.
-Chris
From my experence bass horns don't really work in cars very well because the size of them usally effects the natural resonation of the vehicle. In all reality they really are not needed beacuse of the amount of cabin gain you get in a vehicle.
Also, for shere SPL you don't need an efficient driver because the vehicle itself is so efficient at a certain frequency.
For example In a Honda CRX "As mentioned before" will be louder with two 10" drivers in small ported boxes then 4 15" Drivers with the same amount of power. I know it sounds wierd but do some research on the loudest street drivable vehicles "www.termpro.com" and all the lower "street classes" are dominated by setups like these.
What is also interesting is that a small car with 2 10" drivers and 5000 watts will do around 160 db and larger vehicles with 2-3 18" drivers and 20-30000 watts will only be 3-4 db louder on average.
I'm not trying to defend the kid's running around ratteling windows, that is alot different than competive car audio. I'm just trying to say there is a purpose for all different kinds of drivers.
Also, for shere SPL you don't need an efficient driver because the vehicle itself is so efficient at a certain frequency.
For example In a Honda CRX "As mentioned before" will be louder with two 10" drivers in small ported boxes then 4 15" Drivers with the same amount of power. I know it sounds wierd but do some research on the loudest street drivable vehicles "www.termpro.com" and all the lower "street classes" are dominated by setups like these.
What is also interesting is that a small car with 2 10" drivers and 5000 watts will do around 160 db and larger vehicles with 2-3 18" drivers and 20-30000 watts will only be 3-4 db louder on average.
I'm not trying to defend the kid's running around ratteling windows, that is alot different than competive car audio. I'm just trying to say there is a purpose for all different kinds of drivers.
This also the reason why it is so hard to get a car to sound good and have flat frequency response. Then throw in the reflective surfaces (Windows, Windshield) into the mix and things get real crazy.
Near flat low frequency response in a car, is usally done with heavy EQ and Low tuned, Low FS drivers. Similar to a nice home driver, Not the SPL machine you have.
One last issue is the size of the vehicle, if you have an SUV 30hz response is attainable and strong, in a small car 40hz might be the low end, say a 12/db rolloff, even if the box in open air has an F3 of 28 or 30.
Peerless makes an XLS mobile audio sub that is fantastic.
Near flat low frequency response in a car, is usally done with heavy EQ and Low tuned, Low FS drivers. Similar to a nice home driver, Not the SPL machine you have.
One last issue is the size of the vehicle, if you have an SUV 30hz response is attainable and strong, in a small car 40hz might be the low end, say a 12/db rolloff, even if the box in open air has an F3 of 28 or 30.
Peerless makes an XLS mobile audio sub that is fantastic.
Just google Steve Meade Designs for some Crazy SPL stuff...
Otherwise if i wanted to buy a clean tight "sub" from the automotive enviroment that it would deffinatelly be JL W7's or Memphis MOJO series
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