Hi, yes you can with an RB300 because the yoke only has one side, but if you are starting with an arm that's wired you simply use one of the existing wires to pull through the new ones, so there's no need to take the arm apart. Unless I really had to I wouldn't disturb the factory setup of the bearings.
regard, jeff
regard, jeff
Hi, if you have a little bench grinder, invest in a polishing kit - 6-inch graded mops that replace one of the grinding wheels. A good quallity set will cost about 45 Euro on ebay and you'll wonder how you ever managed without it. Arm comes up real shiney in just a few minutes, like:
Attachments
Hi, it's just very hard to do all that stuff to an arm tube without scratching it, hence stripping the paint off!
I guess polishing is just vanity, and painting it again afterwards might be a better idea! I give mine a light coat of clear varnish, but that's just to keep them shiny.
Drilling holes is a very important part of the mods, both for resonance control and to reduce effective mass, Michell and OL have both recently started doing this to their Rega arms. i don't know if there's a best pattern for holes, but any reasonable shape seems to make a big difference.
Jeff
I guess polishing is just vanity, and painting it again afterwards might be a better idea! I give mine a light coat of clear varnish, but that's just to keep them shiny.
Drilling holes is a very important part of the mods, both for resonance control and to reduce effective mass, Michell and OL have both recently started doing this to their Rega arms. i don't know if there's a best pattern for holes, but any reasonable shape seems to make a big difference.
Jeff
I rewired my RB300 in just 1 hour, without disassembling anything. Mine came from audiogon without wires in it, so I had to re-run a small wire first to pull the new wires.
I used a small wirewrap wire that I ran first into the arm going from the bottom of the toenarm pilar, then through the small hole under the tube (between the axis, the touchy part), then up to the exit at the headshell end.
The new wires were soldered together, then I solder it to the pull wire.
Then I simply pull all the wires back from the pilar entry up to the end of the tonearm tube.
It was easy. Bearing removal is certainly not recommended since you don't have the proper tool to readjust the bearing, etc...
Bye.
I used a small wirewrap wire that I ran first into the arm going from the bottom of the toenarm pilar, then through the small hole under the tube (between the axis, the touchy part), then up to the exit at the headshell end.
The new wires were soldered together, then I solder it to the pull wire.
Then I simply pull all the wires back from the pilar entry up to the end of the tonearm tube.
It was easy. Bearing removal is certainly not recommended since you don't have the proper tool to readjust the bearing, etc...
Bye.
Hi, it's said to be an aluminium/magnesium alloy.
Carr's do solders that will work with aluminium:
http://www.chronos.ltd.uk
What I have done is to drill a 0.9 - 1mm hole underneath the arm and tightly press in a small piece of copper wire. You can then easily solder the ground wire to that, running it into the arm through another hole nearby.
The ground wire is really important, as I found when one broke - there was a very noticable
hum!
regards, Jeff
Carr's do solders that will work with aluminium:
http://www.chronos.ltd.uk
What I have done is to drill a 0.9 - 1mm hole underneath the arm and tightly press in a small piece of copper wire. You can then easily solder the ground wire to that, running it into the arm through another hole nearby.
The ground wire is really important, as I found when one broke - there was a very noticable
hum!
regards, Jeff
. Anyone know how else to contact him?
.Hi, sorry,
I've been away for the last couple of weeks, and I think there has been a problem with the "william-reed.net" email address - I don't have any emails in the "in" box, but I think it's working now. If not, try "jeff.spall@william-reed.co.uk" instead - I know that's OK.
The kits are progressing slowly, I'm working through a set of ten and so far have the materials, the bearings and a set of arm yokes and I'm gradually building jigs to make the parts. It actually takes far longer to make jigs than to make the parts, but when you're making more than one of anything, it has to be repeatable.
I had just realised that, although I've been using Rega arm tubes, my bearing assembly would work with any home-grown arm tube.
Well done with the drilling Pascal, you mst be more careful at this stuff that I am! I've not filled an arm with foam, although I'd always intended to. The main reason is because I'm still experimenting and once an arm is foam filled, you can't get the wiring out again!
regards, Jeff
I've been away for the last couple of weeks, and I think there has been a problem with the "william-reed.net" email address - I don't have any emails in the "in" box, but I think it's working now. If not, try "jeff.spall@william-reed.co.uk" instead - I know that's OK.
The kits are progressing slowly, I'm working through a set of ten and so far have the materials, the bearings and a set of arm yokes and I'm gradually building jigs to make the parts. It actually takes far longer to make jigs than to make the parts, but when you're making more than one of anything, it has to be repeatable.
I had just realised that, although I've been using Rega arm tubes, my bearing assembly would work with any home-grown arm tube.
Well done with the drilling Pascal, you mst be more careful at this stuff that I am! I've not filled an arm with foam, although I'd always intended to. The main reason is because I'm still experimenting and once an arm is foam filled, you can't get the wiring out again!
regards, Jeff
jeff spall said:
The tip is to use first a fine drill then to use the hole as a guide for the final drilling
Concerning the foam, I intended to do something "à la Michell". But the problem is that I have already rewired the arm... So unless I can manage to insert some foam into the holes, I fear it's too late...
Please let me know about your offer concerning the bearings. I may be interested.
All the best
Pascal
Attachments
jeff spall said:
This is of great interest to me. I only resorted to modifying the Rega when my home-brewed arm failed to perfom through lack of proper bearings. I reckon your kit would be just the job.
I'd be grateful if you could let me know when you have the kits ready to sell. I've sent you another email as well, just in case.
Regards,
Mike
hi jeff,
long time no see (u replied to an email of mine about bearings a couple of years ago), i checked ur site recently and didnt find these new pics. you're replacing everything but the armtube (on the rega 250) it seems. i would have thought a nice ebony armtube would finish this baby off nicely.
certainly i would be interested in your kits, except i only found this site today (late to the party as usual, but normally with the best p....), and i'm already deep into the "air bearing" arm thread and the copy shroder thread (which Frank (shroder) himself has posted on... he doesn't mind diy copies at all!) . i may just have to build all three i guess. it sure would be interesting to organise a "sound off" between the best arms on this site.
steve
long time no see (u replied to an email of mine about bearings a couple of years ago), i checked ur site recently and didnt find these new pics. you're replacing everything but the armtube (on the rega 250) it seems. i would have thought a nice ebony armtube would finish this baby off nicely.
certainly i would be interested in your kits, except i only found this site today (late to the party as usual, but normally with the best p....), and i'm already deep into the "air bearing" arm thread and the copy shroder thread (which Frank (shroder) himself has posted on... he doesn't mind diy copies at all!) . i may just have to build all three i guess. it sure would be interesting to organise a "sound off" between the best arms on this site.
steve
rewiring regas
as far as rewiring a rega, or any arm goes, i dont understand why anyone would lay out 70-100 on a wiring kit, when u can buy buy enough silver litz wire on a roll to do the job for 20 quid.... and copper litz (silver plated), which might sound better(less sharp )....for even less.
just run it down the arm and plait the wires from the arm to the amp, and finish off with a couple of bullet plugs.... 40 quid all in and better quality....
just an idea.
as far as rewiring a rega, or any arm goes, i dont understand why anyone would lay out 70-100 on a wiring kit, when u can buy buy enough silver litz wire on a roll to do the job for 20 quid.... and copper litz (silver plated), which might sound better(less sharp )....for even less.
just run it down the arm and plait the wires from the arm to the amp, and finish off with a couple of bullet plugs.... 40 quid all in and better quality....
just an idea.
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.