Ok good to hear it works there are no new NOS Thorens TD124 magnets .As you can see in my previous post the spreading can be big .Maybe I can help you but then I must measure your magnet first !
But if it works now inyou from the music !
I think that proves the most simple thing. Measure all that you can. When I design for the USA I use 130 V as a sensible maximum. For Japan it can be 90 V minimum. I try very hard to use the same circuits for Japan/USA. I then apply this as a 230 V standard of 180 to 260 V when I can ( it is the 180 V that is the problem often ). I also test at 150/300 V if possible. Fire dept advice in the USA says treat the USA as 240 V. This is when there is a neutral failiure outside the house in a storm as the USA is a 240 V system split into circa 117- 0 -117 V ( often now said to be 115V ) . For this reason where possible consider the USA to be 240 V. This is mostly concerning VDR's. The better advice on VDR's is install them on your cooker circuit at 240 V and use certificated devices for the incomming supply. That way you tick all of the boxes.
One way to drop voltage from Garrard engineering notes was to use a light bulb in the live feed ( or neutral ). I am not sure what would be best in the USA. 100 W type should work. Use a standard lamp holder and a 117 V bulb ( or 230 if you have them, if in 230 V region you must ). This will at low cost reduce the voltage. I have a hunch it is better than a resistor and much safer.
One way to drop voltage from Garrard engineering notes was to use a light bulb in the live feed ( or neutral ). I am not sure what would be best in the USA. 100 W type should work. Use a standard lamp holder and a 117 V bulb ( or 230 if you have them, if in 230 V region you must ). This will at low cost reduce the voltage. I have a hunch it is better than a resistor and much safer.
Depends on the variac in question, some sold here assume a nominal mains voltage of 120V and provide an adjustment range of 0-132V (0 - 110%) rather than listing % of output. To confuse matters further I have several which can be wired for 0 - 100% of mains, or 0 - 110% (or even 120%).. I'm probably not helping.. LOL My favorite is an old 1kVa Genrad unit with various taps and a range of 0 - 132V again assuming nominal mains of 120V. (Works quite well because my mains generally hover around 120V within a couple of % worst case)
Meters when provided are not generally terribly accurate.
The key here is it allowed Erocka to reduce the voltage by the 5% or so required to put the motor torque in the range that the eddy current brake can handle efficiently.
The fellow asking the question can't build his own hardware, a variac is a much better choice than the alternative of selling the table which was what he proposed to do. It was the best compromise under the circumstances. I have several variacs, one is very quiet, and the other is not.
I use buck transformers or one of my AC drives to power my tables in order to keep the mechanical noise to a minimum.
I use buck transformers or one of my AC drives to power my tables in order to keep the mechanical noise to a minimum.
How a variac works is the non linear resistance usually bridges perhaps 3 windings. This gives a much nicer voltage change than if one winding. It also prevents over heating at the contact which could weld the windings ( would ). A single metal contact would spark and weld to the coils. The chunk of carbon type material would be about 10 ohms when measured off of the variac. When in contact it is in the case of my 10 amp version about 1.5 ohms due to paralell connection to the coils and resistor. This will raise if the load becomes critical. This won't protect against short circuits. It will help when surge loading. The carbon tip is more sophisticated than it looks.
A 2 amp version would be good for a turntable. I don't think noise is an issue if a new deice used with care. If used with a class AB or D ( G, H ) amplifer the ultimate transient power and grunt of the amplifer might be reduced. Abused variacs may become noisy. Valve / Tube amps should be fine. 130 V is very very bad news for valves.
That's a bit dangerous for most people. You are 100% right. The light bulb ( 1950's style ) and lamp holder is as safe as it can be. How you would wire up a workshop is all it needs. Try 25/40/60/100 watt bulbs ( lamps as I am told by a friend ). If you need to boost what is said is correct.
One way to boost is to use a EL 84 HT transformer ( 2 valves type ). This usually gives slightly more than the input if 230 V and more than double when 117 V. If using in the USA use the 220/240 option. I run a Linn Valhalla on one. It is a 6 dB improvement in ripple beating due to floating. This one is by Danbury as their cheapest design. Call it 30 VA to be sure. Mine looks to be 50 VA from the core size.
One way to boost is to use a EL 84 HT transformer ( 2 valves type ). This usually gives slightly more than the input if 230 V and more than double when 117 V. If using in the USA use the 220/240 option. I run a Linn Valhalla on one. It is a 6 dB improvement in ripple beating due to floating. This one is by Danbury as their cheapest design. Call it 30 VA to be sure. Mine looks to be 50 VA from the core size.
Mushrooms under TT
Hello,
This is my first post, I've read almost all the pages of this thread.
And I did found info on the Gel Silicon Mushrooms for the motor.
Vibration Mounts eStore Cylindrical Rubber Anti Vibration Mounts Rubber Neoprene Urethane Sorbothane Silicone Gel Ring Mounts
And I've read that V10Z61MA2 is the correct reference for motor.
But what about the mushrooms under the turntable ?
Should I go for V10Z61MB2 or V10Z61MB1 ?
Thanks for your help.
Hello,
This is my first post, I've read almost all the pages of this thread.
And I did found info on the Gel Silicon Mushrooms for the motor.
Vibration Mounts eStore Cylindrical Rubber Anti Vibration Mounts Rubber Neoprene Urethane Sorbothane Silicone Gel Ring Mounts
And I've read that V10Z61MA2 is the correct reference for motor.
But what about the mushrooms under the turntable ?
Should I go for V10Z61MB2 or V10Z61MB1 ?
Thanks for your help.
Hello everyone,
I was the first person to work on Eric's turntable. I thought I would add a few thoughts. The table operated fine at my home, 119V-121V. I did however experience the same stylus drag problem that Eric experienced at his home. No matter what I tried, I could not correct this issue. I even installed the new motor coils from Italy. I could stack two heavy platters on top one another and they would come up to speed in less than one revolution. To this day I have not been able to come up with anything else to try. I have a question for the masterminds in this group. Eric stated that the platter ran fast at the 45RPM setting when voltage was set at the 100V-120V setting. He also said he could adjust for 33 but could not for 45. When he switched to the 125V-150V setting he was able to lock both speeds. Not having a great deal of knowledge about motors could someone explain why the motor behaved this way and why, when Eric used a variac, he was able to establish correct speeds at the 100V-120V setting. I am always trying to learn more and greatly appreciate all those who contribute to this forum.
Best,
Jim
I was the first person to work on Eric's turntable. I thought I would add a few thoughts. The table operated fine at my home, 119V-121V. I did however experience the same stylus drag problem that Eric experienced at his home. No matter what I tried, I could not correct this issue. I even installed the new motor coils from Italy. I could stack two heavy platters on top one another and they would come up to speed in less than one revolution. To this day I have not been able to come up with anything else to try. I have a question for the masterminds in this group. Eric stated that the platter ran fast at the 45RPM setting when voltage was set at the 100V-120V setting. He also said he could adjust for 33 but could not for 45. When he switched to the 125V-150V setting he was able to lock both speeds. Not having a great deal of knowledge about motors could someone explain why the motor behaved this way and why, when Eric used a variac, he was able to establish correct speeds at the 100V-120V setting. I am always trying to learn more and greatly appreciate all those who contribute to this forum.
Best,
Jim
I am not mastermind, infact quite opposite of that.
But one reason I can guess regarding the stylus drag is after servicing the turntable it presents very low load compared to the non serviced turntable. So the load a stylus presents is seen. I read somewhere that EMT turntable uses felt washers to put artificial load on motor so minor varying load of stylus is overridden. I also read serviced Garrards also have high speed problems. By the way if it is of any help I did a torture stylus drag test on my Technics direct drive turntable by putting counterweight on the headshell and a dummy triangular nylon stylus. Here is the video. Highly not recommended. But speed was mostly stable. Best regards.