Not sure where those springs came from, but it looks like something someone improvised at some point. The rubber mushrooms as far as I know were the only option provided by the factory. (Edit: I would have to look it up in my book, but now for some reason upon looking at those springs again I think they might have been available on special order to address some particular issue.)
I own two of these tables, the mushrooms on mine had turned hard as rock. Both are mounted on slate plinths and I don't use the mushrooms to isolate the chassis from the plinth. On that vintage plinth I would use the mushrooms. There are several good sources on eBay.
What else have you done to the table? Can you post some pictures?
I own two of these tables, the mushrooms on mine had turned hard as rock. Both are mounted on slate plinths and I don't use the mushrooms to isolate the chassis from the plinth. On that vintage plinth I would use the mushrooms. There are several good sources on eBay.
What else have you done to the table? Can you post some pictures?
The springs are mention in the manual on page 5. As yet I have not found anyone who uses them. The pointed end down with the sleeve inserted and the treaded shaft passed trough. As yet I have not tried them. I have done some basic maintenance on it. I've ordered the brass shaft bottom and o-ring idler from audiosilence, I should have got belts from him, too. So far I'm still getting some low level rumble. I plan to have the motor re-built next month as funds come available. Running the Ortofon arm with a Acutex 315 III STR. Sounds very nice, Good punch and not a lot of sibilance.
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JD, which version of the table do you have? The original or the MKII?
You should be able to rebuild the motor yourself, it is not very difficult.
Given the uncertainty over the quality and suitability of currently available motor bushings I don't recommend replacing them at this time. Note that if your motor has not been serviced running it without proper lubrication can do a lot of damage and quickly.
Main bearing - if you have an earlier table with the nylon bushed main bearing it is only a matter of time before it seizes.
You should be able to rebuild the motor yourself, it is not very difficult.
Given the uncertainty over the quality and suitability of currently available motor bushings I don't recommend replacing them at this time. Note that if your motor has not been serviced running it without proper lubrication can do a lot of damage and quickly.
Main bearing - if you have an earlier table with the nylon bushed main bearing it is only a matter of time before it seizes.
It is a MK II. I did add some 20 wt oil through the hole in the motor bottom case. A belt I had ordered was 12.1" and way to tight, I'm still running the belt that was on it. Speed seems stable and I hear no noise coming from the table it self, although I can feel some vibration when I touch the running motor.
What kit would you recommend? Audiosilence has a kit that replaces the original rivets with new ones, not nut and bolts.
I'd just clean and re-impregnate the original bushings with 20 SAE weight oil unless you have some definite reason to believe they are bad.
http://homepage2.nifty.com/pantone/thorens/overhaul_1.htm
http://www.theanalogdept.com/e50_assy.htm
It is not necessary to unsolder all of the motor wires from the voltage selector assembly, and I don't recommend it. Just unsolder the 33K resistor and a couple of other wires to the switch and mains.
http://homepage2.nifty.com/pantone/thorens/overhaul_1.htm
http://www.theanalogdept.com/e50_assy.htm
It is not necessary to unsolder all of the motor wires from the voltage selector assembly, and I don't recommend it. Just unsolder the 33K resistor and a couple of other wires to the switch and mains.
Thorens TD-124 II Motor Question
Hi,
I just acquired a very nice Thorens TD-124 II. I have refurbished many turntables in the past and couldn't wait to tackle the Thorens. Everything seems to be going fine but I have one question.
Upon disassembling the motor I noticed that the rotor had a thin film of old reddish grease on it which seemed to be very firm and caused the rotor to drag. Should I clean this off and relube the rotor? If so, what do I use, the 20wt oil I have, a special grease etc? Or do I leave it dry?
Regards,
Joe
Hi,
I just acquired a very nice Thorens TD-124 II. I have refurbished many turntables in the past and couldn't wait to tackle the Thorens. Everything seems to be going fine but I have one question.
Upon disassembling the motor I noticed that the rotor had a thin film of old reddish grease on it which seemed to be very firm and caused the rotor to drag. Should I clean this off and relube the rotor? If so, what do I use, the 20wt oil I have, a special grease etc? Or do I leave it dry?
Regards,
Joe
The rotor should not touch the stator.
It does not need lubrication.
Clean off whatever is on it, but check in case there is an insulation coating.
All rotors I have seen are plain metal, with no insulation.
The air gap between the rotor and the stator is an essential cooling mechanism. Filling this gap could cause overheating. Slowing the rotor down by friction of the coating touching the stationary parts will draw excess current. This will cause further overheating. The thermal insulation of the coating will cause overheating.
The rotor and the stator must be clean.
I can't recall seeing it, but is there a mechanism to promote a cooling air flow between the rotor and the stator?
It does not need lubrication.
Clean off whatever is on it, but check in case there is an insulation coating.
All rotors I have seen are plain metal, with no insulation.
The air gap between the rotor and the stator is an essential cooling mechanism. Filling this gap could cause overheating. Slowing the rotor down by friction of the coating touching the stationary parts will draw excess current. This will cause further overheating. The thermal insulation of the coating will cause overheating.
The rotor and the stator must be clean.
I can't recall seeing it, but is there a mechanism to promote a cooling air flow between the rotor and the stator?
Thorens TD-124 II Motor Question
Andrew,
Thank you for the quick reply. From what I can see there is no insulation and I do not know if there is a mechanism for cooling. The tolerance is very small but the rotor spins freely and effortlessly with the grease removed. I used alcohol initially, should I use a different solvent?
I will reassemble and give it a test run.
Regards,
Joe
Andrew,
Thank you for the quick reply. From what I can see there is no insulation and I do not know if there is a mechanism for cooling. The tolerance is very small but the rotor spins freely and effortlessly with the grease removed. I used alcohol initially, should I use a different solvent?
I will reassemble and give it a test run.
Regards,
Joe
Thorens TD-124 II Ball Bearings
Again, I thank everyone for the great information. Does anyone know the exact size of the tiny ball bearing on the bottom shaft of the motor?
I got everything back together and it was spinning nicely. I couldn't leave well enough alone and decided to rotate the bottom plate 180 degrees because the oil port was on the wrong side. I slowly backed the plate off, rotated it and back together again. It didn't feel the same, carefully took a look and the ball bearing was gone!
I have torn apart my work bench, the surrounding area, my clothes etc to no avail. Looked on the bottom of the idler wheel, shafts, down in between the windings and housing, etc thinking that with oil it would stick and not bounce. No such luck.
If I can find a replacement I might as well replace the main shaft ball bearing. Is that one 6mm and anyone using ceramic ball bearings for these two applications?
Joe
Again, I thank everyone for the great information. Does anyone know the exact size of the tiny ball bearing on the bottom shaft of the motor?
I got everything back together and it was spinning nicely. I couldn't leave well enough alone and decided to rotate the bottom plate 180 degrees because the oil port was on the wrong side. I slowly backed the plate off, rotated it and back together again. It didn't feel the same, carefully took a look and the ball bearing was gone!
I have torn apart my work bench, the surrounding area, my clothes etc to no avail. Looked on the bottom of the idler wheel, shafts, down in between the windings and housing, etc thinking that with oil it would stick and not bounce. No such luck.
If I can find a replacement I might as well replace the main shaft ball bearing. Is that one 6mm and anyone using ceramic ball bearings for these two applications?
Joe
Thorens TD-124 II Ball Bearings
Thank you for the measurements. After a great deal of detective work, I found the lower shaft ball bearing. It fell off when putting the motor back together and found its way under the bronze bearing in the motor.
Evidently there is just enough clearance in there for the bearing to roll under if it comes out of the shaft.
I put a dab of grease to hold in in, reassembled and got her up and running. It is comes up to speed almost immediately and holding proper speed nicely.
The motor does seems much warmer than other turntables that I have. Is this normal for a Thorens TD-124? I will probably do a complete tear down of the motor soon with new bearings, felt washers etc.
Joe
Thank you for the measurements. After a great deal of detective work, I found the lower shaft ball bearing. It fell off when putting the motor back together and found its way under the bronze bearing in the motor.
Evidently there is just enough clearance in there for the bearing to roll under if it comes out of the shaft.
I put a dab of grease to hold in in, reassembled and got her up and running. It is comes up to speed almost immediately and holding proper speed nicely.
The motor does seems much warmer than other turntables that I have. Is this normal for a Thorens TD-124? I will probably do a complete tear down of the motor soon with new bearings, felt washers etc.
Joe