Here's my Shuntky / Pumpkin Stereo Pair
All I can say is ABSOLUTELY STUNNING
The GREEN GROUND wire that you see at the top left was experimental during build, it was eventually tidied away but connected to the IEC socket instead of the screw hole used in the photo.
Zen-Mod is wonderful and very helpful, I had a few problems which were quickly and easilly resolved. That is the DIY spirit.
Incidentally the two transformers were not used, one for each channel. I just happened to have 2 x 50VA 20-0-20V Transformers which were perfect for 40-0-40V use.
All I can say is ABSOLUTELY STUNNING
The GREEN GROUND wire that you see at the top left was experimental during build, it was eventually tidied away but connected to the IEC socket instead of the screw hole used in the photo.
Zen-Mod is wonderful and very helpful, I had a few problems which were quickly and easilly resolved. That is the DIY spirit.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Incidentally the two transformers were not used, one for each channel. I just happened to have 2 x 50VA 20-0-20V Transformers which were perfect for 40-0-40V use.
Very nice build. Do you use an external attenuator or maybe source controlled?
I use an external Ladder Attenuator. As a purist I simply plug each source into the preamplifier as I need it. I only use two, the Arcam CD36 for CD and the Arcam AVR280 for FM radio.
My F4 isn't finished yet so Im currently using a DIYGENE A700 which is absolutely stunning. I'm sure the F4 will be better.
My F4 isn't finished yet so Im currently using a DIYGENE A700 which is absolutely stunning. I'm sure the F4 will be better.
Last edited:
I'm driving a pair of B&W DM683s
It's a long story. I had B&W DM14's which were very dated but stunning. I swapped the DM14s for DM602 S2's and then DM602 S3's. With the S3's I found that the mid-range was poor so I invested in the DM683s. These are absolutely stunning speakers sub £1000. The 683s use the Nautlus Drivers which are AMAZING. Driven by the Class A A700 the result is STUNNING.
It's a long story. I had B&W DM14's which were very dated but stunning. I swapped the DM14s for DM602 S2's and then DM602 S3's. With the S3's I found that the mid-range was poor so I invested in the DM683s. These are absolutely stunning speakers sub £1000. The 683s use the Nautlus Drivers which are AMAZING. Driven by the Class A A700 the result is STUNNING.
Last edited:
You might wonder what the grey wire around the heatsinks is ????
The holes in the PCBs were not big enough to take the screws that would be needed to secure the heatsinks. The heatsinks were therefore only held in place by the TO220 devices attached to them. This could have resulted in the device leads fracturing over time due to movement of the heatsinks.
The simple solution was to tie the heatsinks together with a piece of string. My piece of string happened to be a spare length of grey wire. It works and doesnt look too awful.
Zen-Mod, the holes for the heatsink screws need to be enlarged.
The holes in the PCBs were not big enough to take the screws that would be needed to secure the heatsinks. The heatsinks were therefore only held in place by the TO220 devices attached to them. This could have resulted in the device leads fracturing over time due to movement of the heatsinks.
The simple solution was to tie the heatsinks together with a piece of string. My piece of string happened to be a spare length of grey wire. It works and doesnt look too awful.
Zen-Mod, the holes for the heatsink screws need to be enlarged.
I would have assumed there were quite a few Pumpkin boards out there. And I would have also assumed the Shunty boards came from the same supplier.
Just surprising that you are the first to publicly indicate a problem with Pumpkin PCB.
Not having a go at you, just curious as to whether you might have been first from a new batch.
Maybe ZM can give some more info.
Just surprising that you are the first to publicly indicate a problem with Pumpkin PCB.
Not having a go at you, just curious as to whether you might have been first from a new batch.
Maybe ZM can give some more info.
I recall some board issues as well, I meant to mention to ZM I would gladly pay a few extra bucks on any future board purchases for better quality (in know whinny yank try breadboard if you don't like it). Also I had inquired about servo for offset some time ago as well and was wandering if you still plan on designing it?
Bill
Bill
One of my Shuntkys sparked alarmingly around the bridge rectifier diodes. Luckilly the arcing burnt away the offending copper and only fused the input resistors.
One of my Pumpkins had the strange symptom of only illuminating D1-D4. If I put a CCS across the diodes I could get D1-D4 and D6 to illuminate or D5 and D6. It turned out to be some stray copper between the track to Q9 base and the diode lands.
One of my Pumpkins had the strange symptom of only illuminating D1-D4. If I put a CCS across the diodes I could get D1-D4 and D6 to illuminate or D5 and D6. It turned out to be some stray copper between the track to Q9 base and the diode lands.
Unusual for BOTH Pumpkins to be faulty.
I know it sounds daft but just confirm that you have +35 and -35V correctly connected. With the Shuntky and Pumpkin together the + and - cross over, in haste you may have made the natural connection and got them the wrong way round.
Also check that Shuntkys are kicking out +/-35V when they are connected to the Pumpkins.
If you at my post #724 you can see the +/- crossing over between the boards.
I know it sounds daft but just confirm that you have +35 and -35V correctly connected. With the Shuntky and Pumpkin together the + and - cross over, in haste you may have made the natural connection and got them the wrong way round.
Also check that Shuntkys are kicking out +/-35V when they are connected to the Pumpkins.
If you at my post #724 you can see the +/- crossing over between the boards.