PRV 5MR450-NDY for FAST/WAW applications

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From post 1 - here is what I measured - not bad at all:
434944d1408971865-prv-5mr450-ndy-fast-applications-tractrix-cld-new-eq.png
 
I spent a bit of time listening to the setup with the 7.5khz filter in place - it sounds more natural now and doesn't stand out in any songs as being sibilant. Very refined :D

I've included an in room measurement 1.5m from the PRV, in room. There are a lot of issues with this room, but the whole setup sounds great all things considered. Actively crossed over at 360hz, 12db/oct and same levels for low/high

Next is to work out an enclosure and then a passive crossover
 

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That does look better. Thanks for sharing.

If you don't toe them in so much, it should level that little rise at the end, still giving you air.

Too bad your room is not suitable for OB.

As for the enclosure, make it a "dagger" style, not very wide, but a long "tail". Stuff the tail and it should sound very good.
 
Just wonder what the effect of having electronics in the pathway would do to the dynamics of this driver. If it strangles all the bounce, sparkle and vitality out of the unit I would not find it so enjoyable.

As XRK has pointed out, this driver goes LOUD quick!

In the past, I have run more subdued drivers (think Hawthorne) and become bored with them after a few months. I have had mine for 3 years now and love them to bits......however, there could be system/room or personal preference factors.
 
Same sensitivity, but 25W vs 225? Come on......

There is really no problem with the PRV. There is no peak in XRK's measurements, nor in mine. If you are getting sibilance with this unit, look at the rest of your system.

People really need to use their ears and not their eyes.... and also listen to what other people that use this driver are saying....
 
With these levels of sensitivity, power rating is rather irrelevant and has no correlation with actual sound quality. Assuming we're still talking about home audio here.

Apologies...I responded to your post from the point of view of my requirements where I sometimes like to listen to rock music a realistic levels.

I have had experience with low watt speakers which just fall apart at volume, where as the PRV remains coherent.

I did actually look at the Audax a while back as it has a smooth curve on paper and great sensitivity. The watts just put me off (there is always a compromise)

I suspect if will probably sound great at normal levels, but I can find no reviews of it online.

Other possible contenders:



Loudspeaker Database
 
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it does invoke one question for me.
there's got to be a mass/weight difference between a coil that will take 225 watt and one that is rated for 25 watts...

This can be of the design and materials to used, the thermal dynamics of the design, or a big thick heavy wire.
The sustainability of power will be more determined by how well the driver wicks heat away.
 
Progress report...
I was able to shoe horn the drivers apart and out of My old cabinet.
Calibrated My DATS V2 driver tester, I think My rebuilder didn’t reinstall the mass rings as requested and used lighter cones than oem.
Free air is 27hz ish rather than the 20 they are supposed to be.
These have been My daily drivers in isobaric, however, I ran them at 10hz for about 1/2 hr just to make sure they were moving freely, recalibrated, retested with identical results.
I’m torn on what to do.
Add mass?
Tune higher and support with subwoofer?
Send through the front window of the rebuilders shop with note full of profanities?
I’m currently kicking Myself for not doing the job Myself, the drivers were so important to Me I wanted the job done by a professional.
I’ll never hire another person to rebuild My drivers!
I’ll be calling the company I hired in the morning.
My enclosures are coming along AWESOME, they may get something other than My JBL2235h???
Undecided build...
 
Thanks XRK!

27 and 20 is not a big difference in my book. Anything 30 and below is great for a sub. You can add mass by cementing a ring of copper wire at the dustcap and cone interface. Use blue tack to hold in place before gluing. Change wire gauge and number turns.

This sets My mind at ease, I was in the process of loosing My cool with the rebuilder.
Having the test equipment will make adjustments easy and precise, I suppose this is just common practice having something rebuilt, sometimes it just needs a little tuning afterwards :)
I’m thankful I didn’t cut the dust so off to drive My point home!
You’ve saved Me a lot of headache 👍🏻
 
Progress report...
I was able to shoe horn the drivers apart and out of My old cabinet.
Calibrated My DATS V2 driver tester, I think My rebuilder didn’t reinstall the mass rings as requested and used lighter cones than oem.
Free air is 27hz ish rather than the 20 they are supposed to be.
These have been My daily drivers in isobaric, however, I ran them at 10hz for about 1/2 hr just to make sure they were moving freely, recalibrated, retested with identical results.
I’m torn on what to do.
Add mass?
Tune higher and support with subwoofer?
Send through the front window of the rebuilders shop with note full of profanities?
I’m currently kicking Myself for not doing the job Myself, the drivers were so important to Me I wanted the job done by a professional.
I’ll never hire another person to rebuild My drivers!
I’ll be calling the company I hired in the morning.
My enclosures are coming along AWESOME, they may get something other than My JBL2235h???
Undecided build...

Forgive me i can be wrong here but looking up the living room in post 381 it looks woofers get two very close boundery's and ploting such numbers in a dirty quick room simulation show you need about a 2nd order -3dB point roll off at 100Hz to arrive a final 2nd order system 20Hz roll off (speaker+room). Black trace below is 20Hz target as most track material is referenced to when mastered then divided by blue room curve result in orange target curve for JBL's : ) and a guess is your planned low end roll off is much too hot to sound any natural in room situation at post 381, but as said i could be wrong what is the real situation : )

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