I didn't find anything else wrong with it. All the mosfets tested as one would expect as did the gate and source(?) resistors, RCAs tested good to board, etc., voltage looked good at idle, rail voltage was good(+/-30v at 12.5v), and it plays better. No this is just a hobby at this point, but seeing that did not give me a warm fuzzy about surface mounting fets. I have to find the connectors I made for it, then I will run a sub on it and see. It is really too small for subs, but would be nice for anything else.
This amp makes no heat compared to that alpine that was running at 2 ohms. I had it on for 15min on the bench and could not feel any heat in the sinks. In the car when it seemed to work ok it would get a little warm but never hot.
This amp makes no heat compared to that alpine that was running at 2 ohms. I had it on for 15min on the bench and could not feel any heat in the sinks. In the car when it seemed to work ok it would get a little warm but never hot.
I've never seen any ppi that didn't get at least warm. On the subject of the rca jacks... they suck. I replace the rca jacks on every ppi I get. The original ones have a smaller outer diameter and tend to let the cables work loose causing issues. After that, all you have is super clean sound. 
It might be different, I was told it was PPI 2075 but now that I look it is different. It is this amp: http://ampguts.realmofexcursion.com/Sansui_SM-1500/
Not sure about 300wrms from that little thing either, maybe 150x1rms. I ran a rubicon 302 and it went way louder, though I think the ppi was messed up then. It was a nice little SQ system with a 3518 alpine. Now went bigger but it is not right, going to tear most of it out when time permits.
Not sure about 300wrms from that little thing either, maybe 150x1rms. I ran a rubicon 302 and it went way louder, though I think the ppi was messed up then. It was a nice little SQ system with a 3518 alpine. Now went bigger but it is not right, going to tear most of it out when time permits.
Where did you come up with that? That one has the extra stuff mine does not, the two extra fets and what is that black square thing by the gain? Nearly identical otherwise. I had a black pyramid long ago but never looked at the board, it worked pretty well. I tend to like alpines, just got a 1002 I posted about to fix. Need to get parts and see if that is all that is wrong. I might have enough parts in junk amps to fix it actually, just to test it.
I won it brand new on ebay, never been hooked up in original box. You should ask around on here about adding the two extra fets, it would be easy and I'm sure someone here would be able to help you decide if it would be worth it. Oh yeah, and the din jack.. it is underneath the cover. There's no hole in the amp's end cover to be able to use it! :lol:
Its weird:
pyramid - eight outputs, six power fets, thin transfomer wire
ppi - eight outputs, six power fets, normal transformer wire
sansui - eight outputs, four power fets, normal transfomer wire
Almost seems like ppi made the sansui and pyramids borderline reliable so it wouldn't help sansui and pyramid's rep too much, haha.
Its weird:
pyramid - eight outputs, six power fets, thin transfomer wire
ppi - eight outputs, six power fets, normal transformer wire
sansui - eight outputs, four power fets, normal transfomer wire
Almost seems like ppi made the sansui and pyramids borderline reliable so it wouldn't help sansui and pyramid's rep too much, haha.
Nice find! Yeah they fudged it around so they were not the same. I wondered why mine has only 4 power fets, wonder what all I would have to add besides the transistors.
DIN jack under the cover, that is funny. I see the rectifier must be on other side of the board too. That terminal, that is what I need to buy for my speaker outs.
There are deals to be found on there but sure takes a lot of looking. Little while back I scored an alpine m301, kind of small at 350wrms @2ohms but need to run some subs IB anyway. It has all this programmable stuff on it like crossover, slope, parametric eq, shows temp, voltage, its pretty cool and class d and was only $30tmd.
DIN jack under the cover, that is funny. I see the rectifier must be on other side of the board too. That terminal, that is what I need to buy for my speaker outs.
There are deals to be found on there but sure takes a lot of looking. Little while back I scored an alpine m301, kind of small at 350wrms @2ohms but need to run some subs IB anyway. It has all this programmable stuff on it like crossover, slope, parametric eq, shows temp, voltage, its pretty cool and class d and was only $30tmd.
jol50 said:
yeah i got one of those alpine M301's for cheap too. the seller said it didn't work but it did. i think they didn't know how to set it up with all the digital programming! i was thinking about using it for an IB 12" install too. it should be perfect to fine tune the bass in a free-air application and make it sound as good or better than a boxed sub, and keep the trunk space too!
Lol, we think the same. What I like is I get my 30Hz no problem and no box...no big amp needed on top of that. My only rule is to use as many subs as possible, that ups the db. That is why I put 4 12s in this car, used to run 4 10s. Now I want to try 2 15s and 8s in the front, with all that sub I have no midbass. Also have a g190 alpine, works great for tuning subs if you don't have a parametric, or one in your HU.shagone said:
It says 350wrms @2ohm and 175 @4ohm. Is pretty small though. http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?i=500MRDM301&tp=115&tab=features_and_specs
I saw one but could not afford it. Also wanted to get a class d sub amp for power reasons, and a better one so it had some quality. The kicker I have is D on the subs and that part works good. I can get rid of some stuff and free up funds once things are swapped over, so if it works nice I might keep an eye out for the M500.
In reality I like to run my stuff full tilt, I want to see the subs near xmax and the amp ready to distort just higher than max volume....when I feel the need to blow the carbon out
Having more weight or power draw than needed is pointless in this little car....and a well put together system can be more than the sum of its parts. It just might take 3 years to get right as I can't work on it that often.
They must have added a few watts, or marketing did, for the 301.
In reality I like to run my stuff full tilt, I want to see the subs near xmax and the amp ready to distort just higher than max volume....when I feel the need to blow the carbon out
Having more weight or power draw than needed is pointless in this little car....and a well put together system can be more than the sum of its parts. It just might take 3 years to get right as I can't work on it that often.They must have added a few watts, or marketing did, for the 301.
I don't think you will notice any difference changing that horizontal cap.
Have you found any advice from the other members about adding the fets yet? If I was doing it, I'd actually remove the stock ones and then buy all of them with matched date codes to replace, of course the same part number as well. You would need to also add two of the same exact resistors for the gates with the same tolerance.
Have you found any advice from the other members about adding the fets yet? If I was doing it, I'd actually remove the stock ones and then buy all of them with matched date codes to replace, of course the same part number as well. You would need to also add two of the same exact resistors for the gates with the same tolerance.
I didn't ask yet. Was going to look at the board and see how far back stuff goes until I hit. I had thought a lot of stuff was missing but now I see the DIN goes there and don't need that. As long as the driver circuits/etc are there...not going to rebuild the amp I'm not that far along yet. Had to set it aside and get some others done and out of here, getting parts for the rest now but might look it over again before they show up. And lost my solder, doh, just about out and can't find the roll. Have some but don't know what it is, it is Fry brand and small. Was just thinking I'd order a cap too if it made a difference, but odds are I would never use it for subs again anyway. I had just tossed that system in to get it going, now have 4 12s in there. It might run some mid bass 8s well though....hmmm.
shagone said:
jol50 said:I saw one but could not afford it. Also wanted to get a class d sub amp for power reasons, and a better one so it had some quality. The kicker I have is D on the subs and that part works good. I can get rid of some stuff and free up funds once things are swapped over, so if it works nice I might keep an eye out for the M500.
In reality I like to run my stuff full tilt, I want to see the subs near xmax and the amp ready to distort just higher than max volume....when I feel the need to blow the carbon out
They must have added a few watts, or marketing did, for the 301.
Try this one out
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ALPI...019QQitemZ290186229849QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
Or get this one and repair it
http://cgi.ebay.com/ALPINE-MRD-M100...ryZ64570QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Lol, I saw this one go: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=300174773083&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=020
No coin I have stuff selling now. That bigger one will go high I bet, I been seeing broke amps going really high lately if they have some wattage. No point fixing stuff for free, don't know what they are doing with them. I watched a special edition 275 amp go for $20 one day, the next week I found out PPI made them!
The 301 might be enough for the IB subs anyway, I will try it before I get too wound over a 500. Parts get here and maybe that mrv1002 will be working....bet that would dim the lights. Thought it might work on 8" mid bass...you think?
No coin I have stuff selling now. That bigger one will go high I bet, I been seeing broke amps going really high lately if they have some wattage. No point fixing stuff for free, don't know what they are doing with them. I watched a special edition 275 amp go for $20 one day, the next week I found out PPI made them!
The 301 might be enough for the IB subs anyway, I will try it before I get too wound over a 500. Parts get here and maybe that mrv1002 will be working....bet that would dim the lights. Thought it might work on 8" mid bass...you think?followup
There you go, I don't get it....that blown M500 went for $53 (beat and missing front wire cover), and the other one I posted that worked was all there and was not ripped apart went for $77. So is it worth fixing that beater for $25? You certainly can't resell it and make anything if you have to ship it. If it is blown you always run the risk it could be fubar and not fixable, or not easily fixable. I figure if I buy broke stuff I should be able to make out on it even if I keep it, unless I am just that broke I can't come up with a couple bucks more.
There you go, I don't get it....that blown M500 went for $53 (beat and missing front wire cover), and the other one I posted that worked was all there and was not ripped apart went for $77. So is it worth fixing that beater for $25? You certainly can't resell it and make anything if you have to ship it. If it is blown you always run the risk it could be fubar and not fixable, or not easily fixable. I figure if I buy broke stuff I should be able to make out on it even if I keep it, unless I am just that broke I can't come up with a couple bucks more.
Sucks sometimes. I recently bought a broken orion cobalt 2100 for $40. (400 real american made watts) Then I repaired it. Put it up on ebay with a low $25 reserve, and what do I get? That's right, it sold for $39 frickin dollars. I paid 40, bought parts and repaired it, and it sold for less than I originall paid for it BROKEN. I think I'll just start selling the broken amps I get, probably make more money.
Someone got a good deal, heck I could have used it for that. I bought one but the blown bjt (new term for me lol) is listed at $24, yes just about the same as I paid for the amp 
Guess I have to go shopping and see if I can find something else or I'll really be stuck on that one and its just a maxxonics. I saw a bunch of sub amps go really high lately, some were $75 for 1kw and they were selling working for 100 at the same time.
Guess I have to go shopping and see if I can find something else or I'll really be stuck on that one and its just a maxxonics. I saw a bunch of sub amps go really high lately, some were $75 for 1kw and they were selling working for 100 at the same time.- Status
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