I am still there and watching 
You are proceeding fastly and I find it difficult to keep pace.
Reading you posts, it came to my mind that you should take care that you are talking about the same version of PS1 when you go into detail of the circuitry. Back, didnt you say you have a 5XXXX? Your findings may not hold for the 1002 and vice versa.....
As for the RCs, I have not yet found a PS2 RC that does not fit. However, the position of the functioning buttons on the unit may be inconvenient, as it is the case e.g. for the original sony.
Mick
You are proceeding fastly and I find it difficult to keep pace. Reading you posts, it came to my mind that you should take care that you are talking about the same version of PS1 when you go into detail of the circuitry. Back, didnt you say you have a 5XXXX? Your findings may not hold for the 1002 and vice versa.....
As for the RCs, I have not yet found a PS2 RC that does not fit. However, the position of the functioning buttons on the unit may be inconvenient, as it is the case e.g. for the original sony.
Mick
a couple of questions...
ok maybe 1 , (I've been pretty quiet here for a long time )
for connecting RCA direct, rather than bypass all the caps, etc, why not wire connectors to pins 1-4 of the multiout jack? It seems to me that one need not be a great steady solder god...merely steady enough and you avoid all the electronics. If the same effect results, why not?
ok maybe 1 , (I've been pretty quiet here for a long time )
for connecting RCA direct, rather than bypass all the caps, etc, why not wire connectors to pins 1-4 of the multiout jack? It seems to me that one need not be a great steady solder god...merely steady enough and you avoid all the electronics. If the same effect results, why not?
Re: a couple of questions...
Hi Nanook, do you mean the AV connector ? That would still have C423 & C424 in series - no ?
I removed my jumpers and tried the player. Sounded fine but a bit slow, til I remembered Chet Bakers singing always sounded like that.
I think I'll try the AV out route since it bypasses 2 caps and the opamp, leaving only a single 10uF in series.
Nanook said:
Hi Nanook, do you mean the AV connector ? That would still have C423 & C424 in series - no ?
I removed my jumpers and tried the player. Sounded fine but a bit slow, til I remembered Chet Bakers singing always sounded like that.
I think I'll try the AV out route since it bypasses 2 caps and the opamp, leaving only a single 10uF in series.
Mick_F said:I am still there and watching
Reading you posts, it came to my mind that you should take care that you are talking about the same version of PS1 when you go into detail of the circuitry. Back, didnt you say you have a 5XXXX? Your findings may not hold for the 1002 and vice versa.....
Mick
mick i have a 5502 and it is exactly the same with with 1001-1002.
the only difference between them is the opamp and the rca output.
from the AV/OUT they are the same and the dac`s are the same
and the 67MHZ oscillator is the same but the 7xxx 9xxx and
ps one are different.
kmj said:
Am operatiing mine now with a remote that came this morning from ebay. Was £4.99 UK sterling and works fine. didn't seem to have to do anything beyond turn it on. Stop function doesn't appear to work though, but I recall Mick_F s website warned of this. Brand is ProPlay PP (made in china)
blue plastic, quite neat
Lostcause said:
Thanks - thats it. Works well. I've been listening all morning to the player and its sounds nice, kind of warm & bit bit hazy at the top end which is no bad thing. Not as good as my referrence but I could live with it.
So a true underground system would be PSone feeding T-amp, but what speakers to use ? Mick_F - what do you use with your Class D amp ?
jives11 said:
My speakers are Audio Physic Tempo IIIi.
See them here..... . Not particularly underground.
I have a class T amp (the Audiodigit sold by Autocostruire) and a copy of the Gaincard. I must say that I like the latter a little bit more.....
Mick
Jives, hat is your reference CD player actually?
There is one issue with the PS1 that has not been adequately mentioned in this thread: It is VERY important to provide an adequate damping system! Let me quote myself....
Try it, it makes a subtle but important difference. Let me try to explain what I mean.
During one of my first sessions with the PS1 I listened to some very busy Big Band music. I had the feeling that somehow everything was muddled toghether and it sounded like a rather undefined sound mush. My thought was that the PS1 is good but cannot account for such complex music. A little later I put a pillow under the PS1, just for testing purposes. I listended to some tracks and did not hear much of a difference. Without particular thoughts I put up the Big Band music again and was very suprised - suddenly the mess was gone, I could clearly find my way through the very busy music. Every instrument and note had its clearly definded place.
Please let me know if you can verify this finding.
Mick
Mick_F said:
Try it, it makes a subtle but important difference. Let me try to explain what I mean.
During one of my first sessions with the PS1 I listened to some very busy Big Band music. I had the feeling that somehow everything was muddled toghether and it sounded like a rather undefined sound mush. My thought was that the PS1 is good but cannot account for such complex music. A little later I put a pillow under the PS1, just for testing purposes. I listended to some tracks and did not hear much of a difference. Without particular thoughts I put up the Big Band music again and was very suprised - suddenly the mess was gone, I could clearly find my way through the very busy music. Every instrument and note had its clearly definded place.
Please let me know if you can verify this finding.
Mick
back.....what connections?
I think what others here have said is that you can bypass the AV caps (the middle pair, for improved performance). Is this correct or is the AV out preferable without jumping the capacitors ??
Dragonmaster, I knocked out every second "louvre" on the power supply side and drilled a few holes on top of the case , just to help keep it cool while experimenting. Eventually I will rebox it all, the power supply in it's own enclosure.
In my attachments (modded pictures from others), Red is for pairs #1 and #3 (RCA out?), Blue is for pair #2 (AV out?).
Errr.... after a slow start (did Kal start this in 2003?) this thread seems to be up and running ....
I think what others here have said is that you can bypass the AV caps (the middle pair, for improved performance). Is this correct or is the AV out preferable without jumping the capacitors ??
Dragonmaster, I knocked out every second "louvre" on the power supply side and drilled a few holes on top of the case , just to help keep it cool while experimenting. Eventually I will rebox it all, the power supply in it's own enclosure.
In my attachments (modded pictures from others), Red is for pairs #1 and #3 (RCA out?), Blue is for pair #2 (AV out?).
Errr.... after a slow start (did Kal start this in 2003?) this thread seems to be up and running ....
Attachments
Mick_F said:
My speakers are Audio Physic Tempo IIIi.
See them here..... . Not particularly underground.
I have a class T amp (the Audiodigit sold by Autocostruire) and a copy of the Gaincard. I must say that I like the latter a little bit more.....
Mick
Jives, hat is your reference CD player actually?
Well I have 2 CD players, 3 if you count a fairly basic sony DVD player. I need to get a new AUX board for my Quad 44 as I've used up all the line level inputs and could swap out the Moving coil module
My most modern CD player is a Cambridge DISCmagic/ISOmagic two box setup which does have a huge soundstage and a very nice top end. It uses the HDCD filter and some very exotic components internally (OSCONS etc)
However I also have a slightly modified Philips CD104 which also sounds good but in a different way. It's flatter and the top end is not so nice BUT it does sound very good. and has been in my family since 1985 and was second hand then !
Now I have to mind what I say because the designer of the Cambridge is JohnW who is very active in this forum and a very gracious contributor
However I would say the PSone sounds closer to the Cambridge than the CD104. It's not better, there is still some grittiness in the treble to my ears, and the sound stage is flatter but it shares a relaxed quality with the Cambridge.
Re: back.....what connections?
Thanks Nanook, your diagram really clarifies this topology. Because of the microscopic scale of SM technology and the tiny tracks it's not as easy to figure out.
However do the Cap polarities make sense to you ? Maybe I'm missing something but the AV cap appears the wrong way round ? It's fed from the same track as the +ve end of the 1st RCA cap ?
Nanook said:
Thanks Nanook, your diagram really clarifies this topology. Because of the microscopic scale of SM technology and the tiny tracks it's not as easy to figure out.
However do the Cap polarities make sense to you ? Maybe I'm missing something but the AV cap appears the wrong way round ? It's fed from the same track as the +ve end of the 1st RCA cap ?
Re: back.....what connections?
i took the ps1 out of it`s box and screwed it on a piece off heavy wood with four rubber inser rouns and a piece of ricofon under the wood i noticed the same thing.
i also read that if you put it in closed wooden box ot`s even better.
bypassing the AV caps gives a good improvement.
still couldn`t make the knew psu work.
i added two 2N3055`s and the 3.6v is stable now but the 7.6v isn.t
the LM317 can`t drive the 2N3055 i have to find an LM 338
Mick_F said:
i took the ps1 out of it`s box and screwed it on a piece off heavy wood with four rubber inser rouns and a piece of ricofon under the wood i noticed the same thing.
i also read that if you put it in closed wooden box ot`s even better.
Nanook said:
bypassing the AV caps gives a good improvement.
still couldn`t make the knew psu work.
i added two 2N3055`s and the 3.6v is stable now but the 7.6v isn.t
the LM317 can`t drive the 2N3055 i have to find an LM 338