But you still have the muting transistors.
What I've just done is that I've removed the 6 caps and put two jumper wires.
One thing I can say : Wow!
I just disconnected the A/V out circuit because it would have just made some new muting transistors.
I have a problem with DC (The volume control scratches) but I think that I should put two high quality caps instead of the cheap ones coming with it.
Maybe we should put a custom output stage because even with the caps, opamp and muting transistors bypassed, there are still resistors. Anyways, I don't feel maniac at this point.
To remove the caps, use a soldering iron and pliers. You heat one side and lift it and do the same thing with the other.
the right one?
It looks like a Greystation. It is at least the correct type. When you receive it, look at the bootom, see the Sony sticker. Model No. 1001, is the good one in North America...
Dragonmaster...you removed all of the six caps and connected the "out " ( to opamp) and the "in" (from opamp) together? Is this correct?
It looks like a Greystation. It is at least the correct type. When you receive it, look at the bootom, see the Sony sticker. Model No. 1001, is the good one in North America...
Dragonmaster...you removed all of the six caps and connected the "out " ( to opamp) and the "in" (from opamp) together? Is this correct?
1002 is good I think
Mine is a 1002 and has RCA sockets in the back. I *think* in Europe this is considered the one to get. A very good "observers guide to playstations" is here :
http://www.playfidelity.com/Seiten/navi_modelle.htm
This site has got lots of good stuff which I missed the first time because the links are quite subtle, most descriptions are links.
That said, mine does not exactly fit the combination of PSU and MOBO described as I have a Nichicon PSU in a SPCH 1002. I guess over their total lifetime sony produced these in the millions and various combinations emerged.
kmj said:
Thanks, now i just have to solve how to fit the 65mm Transformer inside a 51mm box.
mpmarino
Send an Email?
I saw a PSX on Ebay a day ago or so but I thisk it was an 1002 so no good, but i'll post if I should stumble across something.
Mine is a 1002 and has RCA sockets in the back. I *think* in Europe this is considered the one to get. A very good "observers guide to playstations" is here :
http://www.playfidelity.com/Seiten/navi_modelle.htm
This site has got lots of good stuff which I missed the first time because the links are quite subtle, most descriptions are links.
That said, mine does not exactly fit the combination of PSU and MOBO described as I have a Nichicon PSU in a SPCH 1002. I guess over their total lifetime sony produced these in the millions and various combinations emerged.
DragonMaster said:
Great, you are going where noone has gone before
I replaced all the DC blockers in my Quad44 a few years back. At that time it was considered good practice to use BlackGates Bipolars but these cost $$$$$$$. I found some threads that indicated a humble Nitai brand bipolar was very good and had performed well in test in one of the electronic magazines. These cost very little and have small form factor and large values (i.e 100uF in a 8mm dia package). I swapped these in and the sound difference was very noticeably better. I think the bass will be compromised with just 10uF in line ? One of these per channel would probably fit easily in one of the vacant cap positions ?
Having read all this my favourite way to proceed would be this:
Make an extra board with an output stage consisting of a filter stage only. Take the output of pin 15 and 16 and go into a 10uF cap (+ towards the chips pins as in the schematic) after the caps a serial direct connection to the RCA jacks and a 10k resistor to ground. Cutoff will be at 1.6 Hz.
This is essentially the first part of the output schematic shown above and it will bypass the opamp and mute transistors and avoid all low quality parts.
What do you think?
Mick
Make an extra board with an output stage consisting of a filter stage only. Take the output of pin 15 and 16 and go into a 10uF cap (+ towards the chips pins as in the schematic) after the caps a serial direct connection to the RCA jacks and a 10k resistor to ground. Cutoff will be at 1.6 Hz.
This is essentially the first part of the output schematic shown above and it will bypass the opamp and mute transistors and avoid all low quality parts.
What do you think?
Mick
No.
I connected a jumper from the pad connecting to pins 15/16 of the DAC to the pad connecting to the RCA jacks.
Look at the PDF. It's what you see when you remove the caps and connect the jumpers.
The muting transistors are also under. They are small boxes with 2 pins on one side and 1 on the other.
Doing what I've done bypasses all of this and includes a 18k resistor between the RCA jack and DAC. In fact, the jumper wire I used should be replaced by a 10µF capacitor and it should do the job.
Doh! jives11, I was writing when you posted.
Oops, I just looked at my scheme and forgot that they were after the third pair! So, yes, that's what you tell.
Since there are still some transistors, you will have to either remove the transistors or lift the pin on the signal side.
So, in fact, the resistance between the DAC and output would be 1.1k and not 18k like I stated. I was not looking at my scheme.
It might have something to do with the fact that it is amplified but not the other but I doubt of this.
Oops, I just looked at my scheme and forgot that they were after the third pair! So, yes, that's what you tell.
Since there are still some transistors, you will have to either remove the transistors or lift the pin on the signal side.
So, in fact, the resistance between the DAC and output would be 1.1k and not 18k like I stated. I was not looking at my scheme.
It might have something to do with the fact that it is amplified but not the other but I doubt of this.
DragonMaster said:
...but your solution is beautifully simple. It's much easier having removed the caps to them solder onto the pads. I like it , I'll try this and put one of my 100uF Nitais as the link. I think some kind of mute is probably a good idea unless your preamp is bomb proof. It's interesting that my old Philips CD104 uses relays rather than a transistor, which I guess is the best solution.
So how would you describe the sound afterward ? Still everything you liked before ?
It's for the sound! I've removed the muting transistors to several CD player and the only difference is a not too loud pop when powering on and off the CDP. A lot of people other people do this too.
Well I didn't A/B but I should compare it to my SCPH-101 first. Because when they are stock, they sound the same.
I don't have the PlayStation where I am so I can't test much. I don't have a lot of well recorded CDs too.