Mick_F said:Well, currently I consider to put the caps simply into the cable.
Of course, putting the caps into the amp is the most obvious solution, but in mine there is also no space for these biggies. The ones I have are 65mm long and 35mm in diameter!
Mick
Just like the obbligato's in my combi amp-CD.
Keep the signal path short and use quality components....pitty I had to put two sets in there to stop that wierd DC offset thing, but the sound doesn't change that much with two sets... as long as they are all quality caps!
They take up more room than the T-amp!!
hey about the diferent version of ps1:
where i live there is one place where the 5501 is avaliable. how does the 5501 compare to the 1001?. should i wait until i can find a 1001 or just get the 5501?. im not much of a modder so it would be nice to get a good sounding one without having to mod it.. i will probably be making an adaptor for the multi out but thats probably all i can do.
where i live there is one place where the 5501 is avaliable. how does the 5501 compare to the 1001?. should i wait until i can find a 1001 or just get the 5501?. im not much of a modder so it would be nice to get a good sounding one without having to mod it.. i will probably be making an adaptor for the multi out but thats probably all i can do.
in comparrison.
Hi Coppa:
Intially, I used Model SCPH-5501 with a Sony-brand upgraded AV cable with gold plated RCA and AV Multi Out connectors and OFC wire (Sony P.N. SCPH-10500). I had this connected to my Melody SP3 vacuum tube integrated amplifier. This actually provided very nice results. Then, I happened to browse through a local used video game store and they had a Model SCPH-1001 for under $25 USD. I brought it back home and hooked it up to my Naim Nait integrated amplifier using a Chord Chrysalis RCA-DIN interconnect cable. IMO, there was a significant improvement in sound. Is Model SCPH-1001 that much better than SCPH-5501? I am not sure as I do not have a Sony Multi Out connector to DIN interconnect cable to connect Model SCPH-5501 to my Nait for direct comparison. I do believe there is some synergy between the Playstation (either model) and the Nait amp. I connected the same Model SCPH-1001 to the Melody amp using my Onix Blue RCA interconnects, and it was good, but nothing like the pairing with the Nait. I also tried using the Sony AV cable with the Model SCPH-1001's AV Multi Out connector to connect it to my Melody tube amp. I hardly heard any difference, but then I was using two different cables (Onix vs. Sony). Any advantage with the AV Multi Out may have been degraded with the cheaper Sony cable.
I am planning on making a DIY cable using a Chord Chrysalis DIN interconnect cable and soldering on a Sony Multi Out connector. This will require taking the Sony AV cable, stripping off the existing cable and carefully cutting open the Multi Out connector to do this, but I am confident I can reconstruct the connector. Alternatively, I could purchase a Monster GameLink 200 PS2 AV cable or Impact Acoustics PS2 AV cable and replace the RCA connectors with a 5-pin DIN connector. Both the Monster and Impact Acoustic cables are shielded twisted pair cables with some decent specifications. I believe it's easier to solder on a DIN connector than re-working a Sony Multi Out connector. Why would I go through all this for my Model SCPH-5501? Because I believe that equal, if not better performance can be obtained, if a good AV interconnect could be made. After all, Model SCPH-5501 has a slightly cooler running SMPS, a repositioned laser drive unit, a cast metal laser lense housing, and an auto-biasing laser for hassle-free use. Anyway, once I have the cable(s) made, I should be able to make a final judgment which Playstation model is the one to keep.
I also purchased a PS Audio xStream Power Punch C7 power cord with the polarized IEC C7 connector on the component end. I know that some people including Mick don't think an aftermarket power cord can make a difference, but to my ears I hear more detail and better frequency extension. BTW, I do value Mick's input. The system sounded more transparent. Call it psychoacoustics if you will, but I like the results. I would have prefered making my own 12 AWG DIY power cord, but I couldn't find an IEC C7 connector. There is a German company that offers a non-polarized IEC C7 (i.e., "Figure 8") connector for DIY cables, but I could get the PS Audio cable cheaper in the U.S. than paying for a little connector from Europe.
For now, I have no desire to modify the output circuitry. I am quite satisfied with the stock unit. If you can find Model SCPH-1001 on eBay or at some used game store for a reasonable price, buy it. I think the RCA jacks do offer an advantage to using good cables without having to mess with connectors. This will at least give you an idea of whether you want to pursue developing the Playstation 1 as a digital source.
Rich
Intially, I used Model SCPH-5501 with a Sony-brand upgraded AV cable with gold plated RCA and AV Multi Out connectors and OFC wire (Sony P.N. SCPH-10500). I had this connected to my Melody SP3 vacuum tube integrated amplifier. This actually provided very nice results. Then, I happened to browse through a local used video game store and they had a Model SCPH-1001 for under $25 USD. I brought it back home and hooked it up to my Naim Nait integrated amplifier using a Chord Chrysalis RCA-DIN interconnect cable. IMO, there was a significant improvement in sound. Is Model SCPH-1001 that much better than SCPH-5501? I am not sure as I do not have a Sony Multi Out connector to DIN interconnect cable to connect Model SCPH-5501 to my Nait for direct comparison. I do believe there is some synergy between the Playstation (either model) and the Nait amp. I connected the same Model SCPH-1001 to the Melody amp using my Onix Blue RCA interconnects, and it was good, but nothing like the pairing with the Nait. I also tried using the Sony AV cable with the Model SCPH-1001's AV Multi Out connector to connect it to my Melody tube amp. I hardly heard any difference, but then I was using two different cables (Onix vs. Sony). Any advantage with the AV Multi Out may have been degraded with the cheaper Sony cable.
I am planning on making a DIY cable using a Chord Chrysalis DIN interconnect cable and soldering on a Sony Multi Out connector. This will require taking the Sony AV cable, stripping off the existing cable and carefully cutting open the Multi Out connector to do this, but I am confident I can reconstruct the connector. Alternatively, I could purchase a Monster GameLink 200 PS2 AV cable or Impact Acoustics PS2 AV cable and replace the RCA connectors with a 5-pin DIN connector. Both the Monster and Impact Acoustic cables are shielded twisted pair cables with some decent specifications. I believe it's easier to solder on a DIN connector than re-working a Sony Multi Out connector. Why would I go through all this for my Model SCPH-5501? Because I believe that equal, if not better performance can be obtained, if a good AV interconnect could be made. After all, Model SCPH-5501 has a slightly cooler running SMPS, a repositioned laser drive unit, a cast metal laser lense housing, and an auto-biasing laser for hassle-free use. Anyway, once I have the cable(s) made, I should be able to make a final judgment which Playstation model is the one to keep.
I also purchased a PS Audio xStream Power Punch C7 power cord with the polarized IEC C7 connector on the component end. I know that some people including Mick don't think an aftermarket power cord can make a difference, but to my ears I hear more detail and better frequency extension. BTW, I do value Mick's input. The system sounded more transparent. Call it psychoacoustics if you will, but I like the results. I would have prefered making my own 12 AWG DIY power cord, but I couldn't find an IEC C7 connector. There is a German company that offers a non-polarized IEC C7 (i.e., "Figure 8") connector for DIY cables, but I could get the PS Audio cable cheaper in the U.S. than paying for a little connector from Europe.
For now, I have no desire to modify the output circuitry. I am quite satisfied with the stock unit. If you can find Model SCPH-1001 on eBay or at some used game store for a reasonable price, buy it. I think the RCA jacks do offer an advantage to using good cables without having to mess with connectors. This will at least give you an idea of whether you want to pursue developing the Playstation 1 as a digital source.
Rich
risperdal said:
I will order the RFX with my next Schuro order and try it. Thanks for the idea. The Mundorf supreme types, in particular those involving silver and gold are really expensive, if not overpriced.
rhing said:
That's the decisive point. If it sounds better to you, it serves its purpose.
Mick
While I believe that one cable is much the same as another in pure ohms law terms, it is quite likely that the Switched Mode Power supply in the PS is creating all sorts of radio frequency interference, and 'broadcasting it' back down that mains cable. This may in turn have an effect on other components which share the same mains spur. I know some mains cables have a twisted or braided configuration which it is claimed attenuates EMI/RFI.
I don't go that far, but I do use an interference suppressing mains distribution block and I also clamp a couple of snap-in ferrite cores around my standard PS1 mains lead.
I don't go that far, but I do use an interference suppressing mains distribution block and I also clamp a couple of snap-in ferrite cores around my standard PS1 mains lead.
I have just obtained a 1002 PS, £25. I tried it before modifications and thought....... mm, it plays CD's whats all the fuss about. Carried out the mods by removing the DC blocking caps and muting transistors. Well, what a change. I put it back together to check that it still worked. Might now carry out the mod to the output stage. Has everyone done all of MickF's mods, or jusrt some. Are some more effective than others ?
Are there any other mods in addition to MickF's ?
Are there any other mods in addition to MickF's ?
Hi, all the modifications are nessessary. The PSU of Mick F. gives a big difference.
The output stage is also important, I use paper in oil capacitors.
I place the laser-unit on a wooden construction instead of the metal plate in the psx. All mechanics in the laser unit must be handled with
(white ) grase.
The output stage is also important, I use paper in oil capacitors.
I place the laser-unit on a wooden construction instead of the metal plate in the psx. All mechanics in the laser unit must be handled with
(white ) grase.
Hi guys, im in need of a little help!
I've just completed the linear psu as per micks site.
Put a dummy high wattage resistor on the output of the 7.6v reg so I could ajust the voltage to of the reg 7.6V whilst under load.
The second reg board however came out at somewhere over 10V (not the 8.3V stated) but this seemed to be taken care of by the next stage bringing it down to around 3.4~3.6V. (checked it was still around this figure when under load)
But, when connected to the Playstation, the 7.6V drops to around 4v and the 3.6 to around 2 and absolutly nothing happens (tried this on 2 of my PS's, both still work when switch mode psu is plugged back in.
(checked its simply not the disk tray open switch too!)
If it makes any difference I have yet to attach heat sinks to regs (I would at least thought they would do somthing before over heating though!)
All advice welcomed!
I've just completed the linear psu as per micks site.
Put a dummy high wattage resistor on the output of the 7.6v reg so I could ajust the voltage to of the reg 7.6V whilst under load.
The second reg board however came out at somewhere over 10V (not the 8.3V stated) but this seemed to be taken care of by the next stage bringing it down to around 3.4~3.6V. (checked it was still around this figure when under load)
But, when connected to the Playstation, the 7.6V drops to around 4v and the 3.6 to around 2 and absolutly nothing happens (tried this on 2 of my PS's, both still work when switch mode psu is plugged back in.
(checked its simply not the disk tray open switch too!)
If it makes any difference I have yet to attach heat sinks to regs (I would at least thought they would do somthing before over heating though!)
All advice welcomed!
Hi this is kinda semi related, but i read on another forum that the dreamcast sounds pretty good as a cd player as well. If anybody here owns both can you try it against your 1001 and see how they compare.
I dont have a 1001 but to me my dreamcast sounds better than my sony walkman which has been my only sourse until now.
I dont have a 1001 but to me my dreamcast sounds better than my sony walkman
which has been my only sourse until now.Hi Coppa
I must say the Dreamcast inside looks
a bit like the GreyStation but more compact.
The power supply looks like son of PS1! The
sound quality in the PS1 100x and 550x was a lucky
choice of Dacs combined with a creative choice
of crystal oscillator that gave the machines
low jitter. Later Sony "fixed" it in the redesigned
750x and 900x series and even the PS2 sound was
pretty indifferent. I wonder if the Yamaha AICA sound
chip in the Dreamcast has any merit and perhaps
Sega was trying to out do PS1s in sound performance
as well as all other features. So go down your local
weekend market or visit Ebay for your 1001, put those
spiked feet on the Dreamscast and 1001 and make an
isolation platform like the one Mike F has on his site
and then tell us how they compare!
Regards
AnthonyPT
I must say the Dreamcast inside looks
a bit like the GreyStation but more compact.
The power supply looks like son of PS1! The
sound quality in the PS1 100x and 550x was a lucky
choice of Dacs combined with a creative choice
of crystal oscillator that gave the machines
low jitter. Later Sony "fixed" it in the redesigned
750x and 900x series and even the PS2 sound was
pretty indifferent. I wonder if the Yamaha AICA sound
chip in the Dreamcast has any merit and perhaps
Sega was trying to out do PS1s in sound performance
as well as all other features. So go down your local
weekend market or visit Ebay for your 1001, put those
spiked feet on the Dreamscast and 1001 and make an
isolation platform like the one Mike F has on his site
and then tell us how they compare!
Regards
AnthonyPT
I posted yesterday to say that I had sourced a 1002 and had carried out some mods. I then found (in my son's bedroom and A/V lead to use the A/V out as suggested by MickF. After having butchered the moulded case and soruced the links to pins 1-4 I connected up some phono sockets and plugged it in. Nothing !
Spoke to my son who said that he had an old PS in his bedroom ! (How am I supposed to remember what gadgets he has had over the years !) Turns out it is a 5552, so I try the A/V out. Bingo !
The sound (running for about 30 mins) is as good (to me)as the modded 1002.
What I would liek to know is, is it worth carrying out the DC blocking and muting transistors mods to the 5552 ? I am assuming that the boards are the same as I have not had the lid off.
Spoke to my son who said that he had an old PS in his bedroom ! (How am I supposed to remember what gadgets he has had over the years !) Turns out it is a 5552, so I try the A/V out. Bingo !
The sound (running for about 30 mins) is as good (to me)as the modded 1002.
What I would liek to know is, is it worth carrying out the DC blocking and muting transistors mods to the 5552 ? I am assuming that the boards are the same as I have not had the lid off.
Puffin said:
I understand that Model 5552 only has the AV Multi Out port for audio. I am planning on taking a Chord Chrysalis DIN terminated interconnect cable and adding a Sony AV Multi Out port connector. I'll have to cut it open, but I am sure I can reconstruct it cleanly. This cable would allow me to compare the RCA output to the AV Multi Out output. Also, I could compare Models SCPH-1001 and SCPH-5501 using the AV Multi Out port only.
I have an extra Model SCPH-1001 on hand for future modding, so I'll keep one stock and mod the other.
jives11. Thanks for the link. I used that article to carry out the mods. There seems to be a difference of opinion as to the value to use. Someome suggested as little as 4.7uf would be sufficient. I see that 100uf has been used.
Incidentally can anyone confirm that the reason I got no output from A/V input was because I removed the DC blocking caps. Will I have to bridge this or add better quality caps ?
Incidentally can anyone confirm that the reason I got no output from A/V input was because I removed the DC blocking caps. Will I have to bridge this or add better quality caps ?