Yeah, somethings gone in the DAC or before, it so time to buy another although these 1002's are getting pretty rare.
Do you guy's reckon the 5502 will be OK?
It's the same DAC after all... well almost
I know several have mentioned this in the past but this is a VERY large thread now so it would be good to share your experiences with different models maybe?
Cheers guys
Lee
Do you guy's reckon the 5502 will be OK?
It's the same DAC after all... well almost
I know several have mentioned this in the past but this is a VERY large thread now so it would be good to share your experiences with different models maybe?
Cheers guys
Lee
Mick_F said:
Thanks Mick, what do you think is missing from the 5502's?
I must admit that last night I bypassed the dead PS1 and connected up my old kenwood CD....UgggggH!
Got to get a new one!
by the way, I strip my boards bare to fit it in my case... all connectors are desoldered from the back..you dont think this may be affecting anything do you? Missing ground jumper or something?
sigurd said:
Thanks, Siqurd.
I replaced with 22uF OSCON with very good results.
Between i bought completed kit from Experience electronics tube output stage for PS1 with 2 PSUs (for PS1 and tube PSU).
Tubes are used here arePCL86. It has feedback loop, 44uF capacitors on output.
I had just finished listening with important person for listening - wife.
We were comparing till 01:20AM PS1 with tube output and directly from DAC with 4,7uF cap and resistor to ground.
At the end both agree: less is better.
Tubes makes sound more round, fuller at the costs details. So i prefer more detailed sound.
I have plan now only to use HQ capacitor or maybe can go directly from DAC to SKApre preamplifier and then balanced for DC offset.
I will try also find schematic for good buffer. I have LM4562, OPA627, OPA637, OP275, LM6181.
regards, Bostjan
That's exactly what I noticed with my PS1. I liked it cleaner, directly to my class-d amps, however, I'm also looking at the option of putting a buffer in between, using Opa627 or even the ths4032 which they say sounds really really good if yer into micro details. I'm still lookin for schematics for these though. I'm working on one using +/-15v psu, but still having a bit of a problem on the values of the feedback resistors and the first resistor at the input side connected to ground. I'm doing a basic non-inverting design btw. Hope someone has a nice schematic for this application. Thanks
HI a 333bt,
I reniewed the capacitors C 406 and C 407 near the DAC., 10 µF.
That is important.
For the ouput I use 20µf PIO capacitors directly from the DAC pin 15 and 16 and a resistor 100kohms to ground.
iI use a VERY SIMPLE amplifier JFET 2N3819 for some amplification on a battery suply 20volt...After the amplification also PIO capacitors 20 µF.
It's very good: more deepness!!! more stereo-image, soundcolour the same, so ... good, VERY GOOD !!!
I dont want to work for so a simple ouput stage with tubes... power supply, renewed the tubes...
So I go for a good J-FET stage. AND it is good. If you hear the difference; i would give you a medaille!!!
with regards and i am modest.
Experience first; then knowingness.
I reniewed the capacitors C 406 and C 407 near the DAC., 10 µF.
That is important.
For the ouput I use 20µf PIO capacitors directly from the DAC pin 15 and 16 and a resistor 100kohms to ground.
iI use a VERY SIMPLE amplifier JFET 2N3819 for some amplification on a battery suply 20volt...After the amplification also PIO capacitors 20 µF.
It's very good: more deepness!!! more stereo-image, soundcolour the same, so ... good, VERY GOOD !!!
I dont want to work for so a simple ouput stage with tubes... power supply, renewed the tubes...
So I go for a good J-FET stage. AND it is good. If you hear the difference; i would give you a medaille!!!
with regards and i am modest.
Experience first; then knowingness.
sigurd said:
sigurd said:
Hi Siqurd,
do you maybe some fotos how did you manage to squeze 20uF PIO capacitor and ply-wood?
If you have schematic for J-FET stage, is wellcome also.
where did you get 20uF PIO?
I really like yours idea, i have same thinking (PIO, JFET).
gretings from Slovenia
hi all,
i just finished replacing the ps1 output stage as on micks site. i opted not to use blocking caps and it sounds good! being a newbie i have some (maybe stupid) questions:
-for the ground resistor, does the tolerance make a difference? i used 22k 1/2 watt 5% tolerance resistors. it looks like mick used a 1% tolerance.
-in recasing the psu. is there any tweaks or mods for improved sound/performance?
-anybody know the input impedance of a si super t-amp? i can see the input caps, but not sure about the resistors. i'm trying figure out my total setup impedance and cut off frequency. t-amp and ps1.
thanks, jess
i just finished replacing the ps1 output stage as on micks site. i opted not to use blocking caps and it sounds good! being a newbie i have some (maybe stupid) questions:
-for the ground resistor, does the tolerance make a difference? i used 22k 1/2 watt 5% tolerance resistors. it looks like mick used a 1% tolerance.
-in recasing the psu. is there any tweaks or mods for improved sound/performance?
-anybody know the input impedance of a si super t-amp? i can see the input caps, but not sure about the resistors. i'm trying figure out my total setup impedance and cut off frequency. t-amp and ps1.
thanks, jess
The tolerance of the resistors does not matter. You should match the channels, however.
As for the PSU, people have reported improvements by replacing single capacitors or diodes. However, the improvement by replacing the whole PSU by a good linear one (see my website) is so overwhelming that fiddling with parts exchanges seems not to make sense.
Mick
As for the PSU, people have reported improvements by replacing single capacitors or diodes. However, the improvement by replacing the whole PSU by a good linear one (see my website) is so overwhelming that fiddling with parts exchanges seems not to make sense.
Mick
RC Controller
Mick,
Excellent thread, great site....
I am looking at getting a PS1 and giving this a go. But before I do I'm trying to add up the cost and see if it's worth it or not.
I could possibly pick up a unit for about $20-30NZD. But I would want a remote for it as well. Where would I get one from and what would they cost.
And if this gets up to around $100, is it actually worth doing, as I'm sure you could buy a second hand CD player for that sort of money.
I managed to pick up a second Yamaha CDX-490 for $15 which sounds ok, not fantastic, but hey $15.
I mean, after you completed your mods, was the difference really that good, and where do you think the sound quality is at now, compared to other, 'run of the mill' CD players......?
sorry for the silly questions......
Just have to be sure, before I start down this road.
I like to tinker around, but if it's going to start to cost a bit. I would like to know if it's actually going to be worth it. Other wise the miss's will have my b........ls,
Mick,
Excellent thread, great site....
I am looking at getting a PS1 and giving this a go. But before I do I'm trying to add up the cost and see if it's worth it or not.
I could possibly pick up a unit for about $20-30NZD. But I would want a remote for it as well. Where would I get one from and what would they cost.
And if this gets up to around $100, is it actually worth doing, as I'm sure you could buy a second hand CD player for that sort of money.
I managed to pick up a second Yamaha CDX-490 for $15 which sounds ok, not fantastic, but hey $15.
I mean, after you completed your mods, was the difference really that good, and where do you think the sound quality is at now, compared to other, 'run of the mill' CD players......?
sorry for the silly questions......
Just have to be sure, before I start down this road.
I like to tinker around, but if it's going to start to cost a bit. I would like to know if it's actually going to be worth it. Other wise the miss's will have my b........ls,
Re: RC Controller
hi,
PS1 SCPH-1002 is really good player.
To my ears, more i listening, more i am amazed.
It is not "over warming" - to sweet, ... sound, but natural.
Nothing is missing, or disturbing, but still very detailed.
I thing is best player to money you can buy.
When i heared it, i quickly sell phono player (true i have not many LPs).
Now i listening - testing direct from DAC 22uF BG NX-HiQ and 100k Vishay-Dale resistor from Siqurd values sugestion. Maybe to better oil caps.
Still i need to change base for transport to wood.
Many thanks also to Mike_F sharing experiences on web pages.
regards, Bostjan
enzedone said:Mick,
Excellent thread, great site....
I am looking at getting a PS1 and giving this a go. But before I do I'm trying to add up the cost and see if it's worth it or not.
I could possibly pick up a unit for about $20-30NZD. But I would want a remote for it as well. Where would I get one from and what would they cost.
And if this gets up to around $100, is it actually worth doing, as I'm sure you could buy a second hand CD player for that sort of money.
I managed to pick up a second Yamaha CDX-490 for $15 which sounds ok, not fantastic, but hey $15.
I mean, after you completed your mods, was the difference really that good, and where do you think the sound quality is at now, compared to other, 'run of the mill' CD players......?
sorry for the silly questions......
Just have to be sure, before I start down this road.
I like to tinker around, but if it's going to start to cost a bit. I would like to know if it's actually going to be worth it. Other wise the miss's will have my b........ls,
hi,
PS1 SCPH-1002 is really good player.
To my ears, more i listening, more i am amazed.
It is not "over warming" - to sweet, ... sound, but natural.
Nothing is missing, or disturbing, but still very detailed.
I thing is best player to money you can buy.
When i heared it, i quickly sell phono player (true i have not many LPs).
Now i listening - testing direct from DAC 22uF BG NX-HiQ and 100k Vishay-Dale resistor from Siqurd values sugestion. Maybe to better oil caps.
Still i need to change base for transport to wood.
Many thanks also to Mike_F sharing experiences on web pages.
regards, Bostjan
You can change R5 but only within small limits. It regulates the current through the base of the transistor and depends on the latters beta. Changing R5 will not change the output voltage.
The problem you see is that zeners usually have quite a large tolerance and you need to test quite a lot to find one delivering the correct value. If you always have too low an output value you can put a voltage divider behind the zener.
Mick
The problem you see is that zeners usually have quite a large tolerance and you need to test quite a lot to find one delivering the correct value. If you always have too low an output value you can put a voltage divider behind the zener.
Mick
PSX
Thanks for answer me.
Yes, I understand. But I think that the voltage between the basis and the emitter must be 0,6 volt. It is 0,4 volt. The voltage on the zener is 4,4 volt. So minus 0,6 volt , the emittor must have 3,8 volt. I mesure
4,06volt. I don't understand it. Maybe a BD243c who is not ok?
Thanks for answer me.
Yes, I understand. But I think that the voltage between the basis and the emitter must be 0,6 volt. It is 0,4 volt. The voltage on the zener is 4,4 volt. So minus 0,6 volt , the emittor must have 3,8 volt. I mesure
4,06volt. I don't understand it. Maybe a BD243c who is not ok?