Output of PS1
Hi,
I used a 3.3 uF cap in series and a 22K resistor in parallel. I thought the cap would just affect the lf cutoff. I have not experimented with other values and I doubt if I could, easily, as the space is so small. I could build a larger external cap value in the future though
George
Hi,
I used a 3.3 uF cap in series and a 22K resistor in parallel. I thought the cap would just affect the lf cutoff. I have not experimented with other values and I doubt if I could, easily, as the space is so small. I could build a larger external cap value in the future though
George
Tolu, that's what I was trying to say: as you changed the sound of the cinch out, now you can't hear anymore the type of sound you were hearing before from the multi-av, because our hearing works very much searching for relative comparisons, that means, you really have to get another PS1 and compare multi-av outs between the two, with all other conditions exact the same (that means, also the PS has to be exactly the same model), and I bet you won't hear a difference then (because it makes no sense that the sound of the multi-av would be affected by modding the cinch out...).
Regarding the values of resistors and caps, in my opinion you're wasting your time (as long as you keep values in ranges were they don't get audible (like setting low cut off too high, or resistor value too big). But fine, the time is yours, so, good luck
Just be careful with that resistor to GND, don't set it too low, as you'll put too much load on the outputs of the DAC...
If you say you liked more the sound of the multi-av, compared to your modded cinch (direct, only HPF), then I'd say: change that Cap...
Ah, and please check that really nothing else is connected to the cinchs anymore... because in the original circuit, there are some other components connected to it, and it's not enough to take the smd blocking caps out...
Anyway, my 5 cents...
George,
if you build a new, solid housing for your PS1, and install the power supply more far away from the board, you'll have less heat, and less exposed / or plastic parts. And as long as you are always careful when inserting or taking out the CD, your playstation should be "living" as long as the laser unit works (and that should be quite a few years, unless you keep it working 24h a day reading a CD LOL...).
And now, a quick update about my PS1 project:
I changed the output stage for a new and special circuit: a low-level Sandman (or Technics class AA design, if you prefer). It brought me a subtle, but definitely worth improvement in sound stage, the music sounds more alive, more 3D now
Check out the working thread on diyhifi, I'll put a schematic there soon.
And an important correction:
the buffer I had before (the schematic is there aswell) was inverted. And that was wrong, I discovered finally... I did the mistake of assuming: datasheet says, DAC has inverted out, so I have to invert again, but I didn't imagine that the sony people could have implemented inversion of data at the digital domain...
So, important for all wanting to build a buffer for the PS1:
go for a non-inverting design!! [\B]
Regarding the values of resistors and caps, in my opinion you're wasting your time (as long as you keep values in ranges were they don't get audible (like setting low cut off too high, or resistor value too big). But fine, the time is yours, so, good luck
Just be careful with that resistor to GND, don't set it too low, as you'll put too much load on the outputs of the DAC...
If you say you liked more the sound of the multi-av, compared to your modded cinch (direct, only HPF), then I'd say: change that Cap...
Ah, and please check that really nothing else is connected to the cinchs anymore... because in the original circuit, there are some other components connected to it, and it's not enough to take the smd blocking caps out...
Anyway, my 5 cents...
George,
if you build a new, solid housing for your PS1, and install the power supply more far away from the board, you'll have less heat, and less exposed / or plastic parts. And as long as you are always careful when inserting or taking out the CD, your playstation should be "living" as long as the laser unit works (and that should be quite a few years, unless you keep it working 24h a day reading a CD LOL...).
And now, a quick update about my PS1 project:
I changed the output stage for a new and special circuit: a low-level Sandman (or Technics class AA design, if you prefer). It brought me a subtle, but definitely worth improvement in sound stage, the music sounds more alive, more 3D now
Check out the working thread on diyhifi, I'll put a schematic there soon.
And an important correction:
the buffer I had before (the schematic is there aswell) was inverted. And that was wrong, I discovered finally... I did the mistake of assuming: datasheet says, DAC has inverted out, so I have to invert again, but I didn't imagine that the sony people could have implemented inversion of data at the digital domain...
So, important for all wanting to build a buffer for the PS1:
go for a non-inverting design!! [\B]
Just found this tweak which may help get that extra nth percent of performance from the PS1 for a small outlay:
http://www.audioasylum.com/audio/tweaks/messages/11/110291.html
Anyone tried this yet? Must admit my PS1 has been gathering dust since I discovered the Shigaclone thread, but I'll try this tweak myself soon and compare the two.
Cheers,
- John
http://www.audioasylum.com/audio/tweaks/messages/11/110291.html
Anyone tried this yet? Must admit my PS1 has been gathering dust since I discovered the Shigaclone thread, but I'll try this tweak myself soon and compare the two.
Cheers,
- John
John,
don't worry about clean AC, at least not as long as you keep the SMPS as power supply... the noise it generates is far more then what might be left from the AC...
Now, if you change it for a linear supply, like I did, that tweak might eventually make some sense. Though I'd rather invest in a little bigger filter caps after rectification, will be more efficient and less dangerous (remember there are countries were you are not allowed to put a cap across mains! must be some reason for that, no?
)
don't worry about clean AC, at least not as long as you keep the SMPS as power supply... the noise it generates is far more then what might be left from the AC...
Now, if you change it for a linear supply, like I did, that tweak might eventually make some sense. Though I'd rather invest in a little bigger filter caps after rectification, will be more efficient and less dangerous (remember there are countries were you are not allowed to put a cap across mains! must be some reason for that, no?
)Always be careful at mains voltages
It will still work because AC filter works the opposite way around too, ie keeping the SMPS hash out of powersupplies to other pieces of your equipment ie your amp.
But what they recommended on that from is dangerously unclear.
Is it in parallel with the neutral line, which would be in a dc blocking capacity, but should be coupled with a diode, going the opposite way(they're using polar caps right?)
Or is it across the neutral and phase, which a bipolar cap should most definitely be used, and one that is mains rated with regenerative capabilities.
If I remember correctly the PS1 SMPS already has some AC filtering anyway(haven't got my PS1 with me), no DC blocking though(very little equipment ever does, safety issues)
Be very careful of any mains caps. They can remained charged for quite a while after disconnecting power.
joydivision said:
It will still work because AC filter works the opposite way around too, ie keeping the SMPS hash out of powersupplies to other pieces of your equipment ie your amp.
But what they recommended on that from is dangerously unclear.
Is it in parallel with the neutral line, which would be in a dc blocking capacity, but should be coupled with a diode, going the opposite way(they're using polar caps right?)
Or is it across the neutral and phase, which a bipolar cap should most definitely be used, and one that is mains rated with regenerative capabilities.
If I remember correctly the PS1 SMPS already has some AC filtering anyway(haven't got my PS1 with me), no DC blocking though(very little equipment ever does, safety issues)
Be very careful of any mains caps. They can remained charged for quite a while after disconnecting power.
Scratchy sound
I just bought an SCPH-1001 on eBay, but it has a problem. It sounds fine at first, but after about 10-15 seconds, it starts to make a scratchy sound like a scratchy record. The scratchy sound gradually gets louder until it gets even louder than music signal itself after about 30 seconds.
Another strange thing is that this problem doesn't happen at all with some CDs. Those CDs sound crystal clear. But I don't know of any difference between the CDs that sound good and those that don't. They're all clean, unscratched, and work fine on a regular CD player.
Has anyone experienced this before with these PS1 machines? Any ideas on how to fix it?
Thanks,
Mike
I just bought an SCPH-1001 on eBay, but it has a problem. It sounds fine at first, but after about 10-15 seconds, it starts to make a scratchy sound like a scratchy record. The scratchy sound gradually gets louder until it gets even louder than music signal itself after about 30 seconds.
Another strange thing is that this problem doesn't happen at all with some CDs. Those CDs sound crystal clear. But I don't know of any difference between the CDs that sound good and those that don't. They're all clean, unscratched, and work fine on a regular CD player.
Has anyone experienced this before with these PS1 machines? Any ideas on how to fix it?
Thanks,
Mike
My MickF linear power supply lives!
First impressions are very good, I'm noticing "new bits" on well known songs and nothings caught fire so far. It worked first time but after trying 15 zenner diodes I couldn't get the 3.6V stage any nearer than 3.7V but it seems happy at that. It's only been playing for maybe one hour, I'm just coming to the end of Songs From The Wood by Jethro Tull and it's DubSide Of The Moon by the Easy Star All Stars next.
All told I'm very happy with the whole playstation experience, in fact make that the whole DIY audio experience.
John
First impressions are very good, I'm noticing "new bits" on well known songs and nothings caught fire so far. It worked first time but after trying 15 zenner diodes I couldn't get the 3.6V stage any nearer than 3.7V but it seems happy at that. It's only been playing for maybe one hour, I'm just coming to the end of Songs From The Wood by Jethro Tull and it's DubSide Of The Moon by the Easy Star All Stars next.
All told I'm very happy with the whole playstation experience, in fact make that the whole DIY audio experience.
John
Re: Scratchy sound
You may have to reset the bias and intensity of your laser unit. Just go to Mick Feuerbacher's Web site and follow the instructions on alignment of the laser (http://www.dogbreath.de/PS1/LaserAlignment/Laser.html).
You may also want to dis-assemble the Playstation and make sure that there are no loose wires, excessive dirt and dust and that the laser lens is clean. I have three PS1's and two of the units required a thorough cleaning. I think one of them even had drops of pizza sauce inside. Anyway, you just never know the history of abuse that these game consoles go through. Once properly maintained, you can get a lot of musical enjoyment from them.
I know some people have no choice but to purchase their PS1's through eBay, but I only go through local video game shops where I can at least examine them myself and test them out before buying them.
mluckow said:
You may have to reset the bias and intensity of your laser unit. Just go to Mick Feuerbacher's Web site and follow the instructions on alignment of the laser (http://www.dogbreath.de/PS1/LaserAlignment/Laser.html).
You may also want to dis-assemble the Playstation and make sure that there are no loose wires, excessive dirt and dust and that the laser lens is clean. I have three PS1's and two of the units required a thorough cleaning. I think one of them even had drops of pizza sauce inside. Anyway, you just never know the history of abuse that these game consoles go through. Once properly maintained, you can get a lot of musical enjoyment from them.
I know some people have no choice but to purchase their PS1's through eBay, but I only go through local video game shops where I can at least examine them myself and test them out before buying them.
Rich,
Thanks very much for the advice. According to that site, bad laser alignment might be the source of the problem, so I'll give those instructions a try tomorrow and will let you know what the results are.
While I have it apart, I'll see if it needs to be cleaned. Do you remove that large gray metal panel and clean the PC board underneath, too? It doesn't look like it's very difficult to remove it and replace it.
I tried to buy a PS1 locally but none of the game shops here in Boulder or Denver had an SCPH-1001, so that's why I bought one on eBay. The guy I bought it from is ethical and gave me a full refund for it (and told me just to keep it instead of shipping it back to him), but I'll pay him for it again if I can fix it.
Thanks again,
Mike
Thanks very much for the advice. According to that site, bad laser alignment might be the source of the problem, so I'll give those instructions a try tomorrow and will let you know what the results are.
While I have it apart, I'll see if it needs to be cleaned. Do you remove that large gray metal panel and clean the PC board underneath, too? It doesn't look like it's very difficult to remove it and replace it.
I tried to buy a PS1 locally but none of the game shops here in Boulder or Denver had an SCPH-1001, so that's why I bought one on eBay. The guy I bought it from is ethical and gave me a full refund for it (and told me just to keep it instead of shipping it back to him), but I'll pay him for it again if I can fix it.
Thanks again,
Mike
boy is aligning the laser assembly hard. even when using a mini-cd to access the pot. its nearly impossible to get right!
im on the 3'rd day of trying to improve it. i still cant get it to read mildy scratched cds decently, cd's that work in other cd players.
its taking a lot of patience.
anyone got any tips/tricks?
im on the 3'rd day of trying to improve it. i still cant get it to read mildy scratched cds decently, cd's that work in other cd players.
its taking a lot of patience.
anyone got any tips/tricks?
mrskinny,
that's not really true. Some later laserunits won't work in the first version, or vice-versa, because of the cable length/position...
Check first on this site (has all models listed with photos, etc):
http://playfidelity.com/
that's not really true. Some later laserunits won't work in the first version, or vice-versa, because of the cable length/position...
Check first on this site (has all models listed with photos, etc):
http://playfidelity.com/
mluckow said:
Always make sure that you first unplug the unit before removing the PS1's chassis cover. Excercise caution around the power supply caps too. The large gray metal panel is what covers the motherboard and supports the laser/drive assembly. Just remove the controller ports first, unscrew all the fasteners and gently lift the panel out of the way. Normally, only dust builds up underneath this panel, but it's a good idea to familiarize yourself with the motherboard layout and use a computer compressed air blaster to blow out any dust and debris. You can also lift the motherboard and insure that it's clean underneath. I use those alcohol wipes made for cleaning computer monitors. You can use pure IPA and a lint-free cloth to clean the chassis. Just don't get the motherboard or any other electrical components wet.
Hi joydivision- The later model transports will work with the 1001, the transport in mine is from a 9001. If you go back to page 69, starting at post 1707 there are some instructions to show how to do it. The cable on the later units is longer, but all you have to do is fold the cable into a U shape, then it will plug into the board. I've used the 9001 transport in mine for over a year now and have had no problems.
Rich,
Thanks for the advice, but it would be impossible to do the laser alignment procedures with the unit unplugged since voltages need to be measured. Or were you just referring to the cleaning process?
By the way, I'm about to build a SimpleSE amp, and George at Tubelab (the guy who designed the amp) has a great page on electrical safety while testing and troubleshooting the amp. Here's the site:
http://www.tubelab.com/Safety.htm
I found that very useful.
By the way, I wasn't able to get the alignment done today, but I did get everything set up and ready to do it tomorrow. When I inspected the inside of my SCPH-1001, I noticed one small difference between it and the SCPH-1002 shown in the photos on Mick Feuerbacher's website. In his photo of the yellow cable and the trimmer that adjusts laser intensity, you can see the round measuring point directly above the trimmer.
However, in my unit, that point isn't round; it's more like a little blob of solder that seems to be touching the trimmer itself, so I'm not sure if it's really the measuring point or not. Do you happen to know if that's really the measuring point?
Even if it is, it looks like it will be very difficult to reach that point with my multimeter probe if I have a CD on the transport. Do you know where I might be able to get a mini-CD? I used to have one years ago but I couldn't find it today when I looked everywhere.
I wonder if it would be possible to take a regular CD-R and cut the outer two-thirds away to make my own mini-CD? Seems like that might work, but do happen to know?
I'm looking forward to trying this procedure tomorrow.
Thanks again for all your help!
Mike
Thanks for the advice, but it would be impossible to do the laser alignment procedures with the unit unplugged since voltages need to be measured. Or were you just referring to the cleaning process?
By the way, I'm about to build a SimpleSE amp, and George at Tubelab (the guy who designed the amp) has a great page on electrical safety while testing and troubleshooting the amp. Here's the site:
http://www.tubelab.com/Safety.htm
I found that very useful.
By the way, I wasn't able to get the alignment done today, but I did get everything set up and ready to do it tomorrow. When I inspected the inside of my SCPH-1001, I noticed one small difference between it and the SCPH-1002 shown in the photos on Mick Feuerbacher's website. In his photo of the yellow cable and the trimmer that adjusts laser intensity, you can see the round measuring point directly above the trimmer.
However, in my unit, that point isn't round; it's more like a little blob of solder that seems to be touching the trimmer itself, so I'm not sure if it's really the measuring point or not. Do you happen to know if that's really the measuring point?
Even if it is, it looks like it will be very difficult to reach that point with my multimeter probe if I have a CD on the transport. Do you know where I might be able to get a mini-CD? I used to have one years ago but I couldn't find it today when I looked everywhere.
I wonder if it would be possible to take a regular CD-R and cut the outer two-thirds away to make my own mini-CD? Seems like that might work, but do happen to know?
I'm looking forward to trying this procedure tomorrow.
Thanks again for all your help!
Mike