Pioneer 8" BOFU BIB

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Re: dayton tweeter

giantstairs said:
any chance this tweeter would work with the 8" hemps? i noticed there are also two other similar models with a bit more effiency:

rear mount tweeter

3/4" tweeter

You know, somehow I suspect "Pano" and I may be talking about two different tweats, now that I go back and reread the thread. The ones I have are the second one on your list, the 275-030s.

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


I chose them because I could see the response graph. But most importantly, they would work best on a coaxial arrangement, if I was able to do that. I've got this sneaky suspicion that the three are basically the same dome tweater, with slightly different housing and perhaps a little tweaking here and there.

Panomaniac, which of the three were you talking about?
 
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People had mentioned another of the three very similar tweeters as being good, but I chose this one because its efficiency seemed about the same as the BOFU. Well, mainly because Mr. Chang said it worked , but the efficiency gave me confidence in it. It is actually a bit horn loaded...

I also figure that the tweeters are all quite similar, and the efficiency is what drives which you need. Of course for the Coax BOFU, as Dave says, this tiny one that goes in from the front is the obvious choice

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=275-025&CFID=9638189&CFTOKEN=34028700


Shown below....
 

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The 3/4" is listed as more efficient, so would be worth trying if you wanted more treble balance, and at the price, why not try them all!!
but the 5/8" seems to match the efficiency of the BOFU and being smaller diameter seems more appropriate for a tweeter that just does the highest frequencies. The fact that it is also perfect for the coax is even better!

It seems to me that the optimal thing to do would be to have a phase plug extending out from the center to about the average area of the BOFU, to make the tweeter in phase with it. Also getting it away from the dustcap area should help cut down on the resonances that most coax's seem to have.. . The tweeter is so small that the plug can even taper a bit before the tweeter..
 
Variac said:
The 3/4" is listed as more efficient, so would be worth trying if you wanted more treble balance, and at the price, why not try them all!!
but the 5/8" seems to match the efficiency of the BOFU and being smaller diameter seems more appropriate for a tweeter that just does the highest frequencies. The fact that it is also perfect for the coax is even better!


You could be right there. However, there was no response graph for that particular tweat, and I can always add an L-Pad to turn it down a bit if need be, can't I?

Here was my other point in choosing the slightly wider one, in that it has a shield of an extra 1/4" in it's radius, which would hide any wiring or extension to the coax. such as the plug. Would the addition of that slight width actually make a big difference to the coaxial arrangement?

It seems to me that the optimal thing to do would be to have a phase plug extending out from the center to about the average area of the BOFU, to make the tweeter in phase with it. Also getting it away from the dustcap area should help cut down on the resonances that most coax's seem to have.. . The tweeter is so small that the plug can even taper a bit before the tweeter..

The only thing that would worry me woud be the fact that the BOFU does not have a vented pole piece. with one you could route the wire straight out the vent, but in this case you must go through the spider, or the cone, OR attach the tweater to a cross brace and route the wiring under the brace.

Granted the brace may be the most practical, but will certainly not be the best in appearance. So, if we are stuck with running the wire through the speaker, which would work best; going through the cone, or the spider(sealing the hole of course).
 
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Variac said:
The tweeter is so small that the plug can even taper a bit before the tweeter..

My initial scheme has a chunk of 1 1/4" dowel, onto which you glue the tweeter. Then a piece of 1 1/2" heat shrink should give just enuff more to create the right diameter of plug, as well as further secure the tweeter and make it look tidy.

dave
 
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I think that a twisted pair of magnet wire wends its way through the atmosphere. I don't think that it is gong to be noticable soundwise, in front of the cone. An alternative would be to run it throught the dowel, have it come out near the cone as a piece of tinsel salvaged from another driver, and then through the cone. OK, I have never tried attaching tinsel to a wire- I don't know how that would work.
 
frugal-phile™
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Variac said:
have it come out near the cone as a piece of tinsel salvaged from another driver, and then through the cone. OK, I have never tried attaching tinsel to a wire- I don't know how that would work.

I have done that before. With the whizzer i can olny see over the whizzer thru the cone as viable and that is not much different than taking it right out the side and a lot safer & easier.

dave
 
Re: Re: Re: dayton tweeter

panomaniac said:



I have the one in your photo, the one with the flange.

Wow! You guys are busy, got to catch up with this thread.

I am beginning to think that eventually someone will be breaking new ground by trying to make a true coaxial out of the BOFR. I like the idea of permanently mounting it on a pole piece, far enough to get it in phase with the driver. But figuring out the exact path the wires will take are going to have to be tried by someone willing to lead the way. Unfortunately I do not have the software to make the necessary correction in order to maximize the BOFR without seriously altering it's characteristics.

And too, I would need to acquire another one just to play around with. But first things first for me. I have completed those little buyout speakers I worked on that are in my Great Veneer Idea thread, and must now complete the floor standing units that have been sitting around unfinished in my store room. Since I now have the complete crossover, I no longer have an excuse Not to complete them, what with the cabinets almost complete.

Once it is done, I will turn my time to making the six sided enclosure and then worry about fitting this little combination into it. Perhaps someone will have beaten us to the punch and taken the lead in figuring out just how and where the wiring should go and what changes to the cone it produce, and what to do to improve things. Perhaps our fearless moderators can take the lead? ;)
 
Re: couple of questions on this BiB

nuconz said:
1. what about "side mounting" the driver in an iBiB configuration?

2. anyone ever tried this FR in a BiB?

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=290-379


Actually Nelson Pass did a review of this driver and recommended not using it. He said the Pioneer was much better, especially for only a few dollars more.

-David
 
Re: couple of questions on this BiB

nuconz said:
1. what about "side mounting" the driver in an iBiB configuration?

2. anyone ever tried this FR in a BiB?

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=290-379

The Qts of this driver is high, it lends itself to Open Baffle type set-up's.

Somewhere on the Forum is a Thread on that driver, paired with a Goldwood 18" Pro driver in a simple baffle that the poster was very happy with.

John
 
nuconz , I've been playing with this driver for some time (I call it the 8003 for short). I can say that I am pleasantly surprised but not overwhelmed. Coupled with a goldwood 15" for less than $30 a piece, this would be a fantastic value OB (add a cheap tweet- it needs it), though low sensetivety sucks up lots of power compared to the BOFU. A simulated BiB for the 8003 is simply ridiculous in size; search elsewhere for a cost-effective driver.
 
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