I made some observations regarding what I think is some distortion coming from the whizzer cone. Some how this distortion can only be heard when listening something like 70-90 degrees of axis of the drivers. I got the same result with all my vintage philips 12" drivers with wizzer. Is this a common whizzer cone issue? Is there an easy mod or solution?
Don't know why it bothers me as much as it does since I almost never listen that much of axis. But I have started to look for other drivers to replace my ad12202, that is how much it bothers me (my mind). I'm having a difficult time to just enjoy the music.
Don't know why it bothers me as much as it does since I almost never listen that much of axis. But I have started to look for other drivers to replace my ad12202, that is how much it bothers me (my mind). I'm having a difficult time to just enjoy the music.
'Sounds' like maybe time for a Marc Wauters' Lowther $0.98 tweak: https://web.archive.org/web/20001015053453/http://www.goodnet.com/~darmah/lowther/mods.htm
GM
GM
You're welcome! Please let us know if it works for you. Assuming you don't mind altering this [minor?] collectible, then another tweak you might want to try even if this solves your problem is altering the whizzer's stiffness by kneading its 'mouth' perimeter as required to damp its bell modes to reduce its mids 'shout'. If you don't like it, then spray cheap lacquer hairspray to stiffen it back up.
GM
GM
Yeh, that is exactly my concern. Do not want to make something irreversible to these drivers since I'm not shure I'll keep them. Might pass them on to some one who knows how to enjoy them if this mod does not work for me and it would be a shame if I destroyed them with non functional mods before that.
After trying the mod you suggested GM but using sheeps wool insted of foam the distortion clearly gotten less prominent. Not shure if the dynamics still are the same or if it was the distortion that added the dynamics that I now think I am missng. Need to experiment a bit with the amount of wool to fine tune it.
I don't understand French, what is the dimension of the rectangular port for this design?
Thanks.
33 Hz at -6 dB. Vent : a PVC tube 10 cm exterieur, 9.4 cm interieur, lenght 7 cm.
Was what he considered using first, but he was concerned there might be some boomy bass when tuned that low.
In the end he went for a rectangular vent, he did not specifie messures.
I recently sold my ad12202 and never got to build any boxes for them, just used them on open baffles with subwoofer support. Quite fantastic and relaxed sound, super smoooooth! But since I live in a small apartment now there was no room for them, so I let them go....wich I offcourse regret now.
Was what he considered using first, but he was concerned there might be some boomy bass when tuned that low.
In the end he went for a rectangular vent, he did not specifie messures.
I recently sold my ad12202 and never got to build any boxes for them, just used them on open baffles with subwoofer support. Quite fantastic and relaxed sound, super smoooooth! But since I live in a small apartment now there was no room for them, so I let them go....wich I offcourse regret now.
Hornresp is free/popular and with its Loudspeaker Wizard slider controls, very easy to use.
Ideally it needs to be at least 91 cm high/271 L net/39 Hz Fb, so what's the largest dimensions you can tolerate, average seated ear height and what's your amp's output impedance [not tap rating]?
GM
I thought Mac users ran MS emulators? to run Windoze programs.........
Hmm, knowing the primary impedance doesn't tell us the amp's output impedance, which with SE can be quite high, but your cab will be acoustically small enough that any will be too much, so you'll probably have to experiment with stuffing, tuning to get an acceptable amount of bass 'tightness'.
Since you didn't tell me ear height, here's three driver offsets to choose from assuming 120 cm max height/~1.9 mm thick panels, though in this underdamped alignment, MDF is acceptable and frankly, even cheap particleboard or thinner panels will work, just make the driver baffle nice and rigid and ideally brace/clamp [mass load] the driver to it:
L = 116.2 cm i.d.
0.21 x L i.d.
0.349
0.42
265 cm^2 x 1.9 cm vent near/at the bottom
GM
edit: smoothest sim is with driver 0.42 x L i.d.
Hmm, knowing the primary impedance doesn't tell us the amp's output impedance, which with SE can be quite high, but your cab will be acoustically small enough that any will be too much, so you'll probably have to experiment with stuffing, tuning to get an acceptable amount of bass 'tightness'.
Since you didn't tell me ear height, here's three driver offsets to choose from assuming 120 cm max height/~1.9 mm thick panels, though in this underdamped alignment, MDF is acceptable and frankly, even cheap particleboard or thinner panels will work, just make the driver baffle nice and rigid and ideally brace/clamp [mass load] the driver to it:
L = 116.2 cm i.d.
0.21 x L i.d.
0.349
0.42
265 cm^2 x 1.9 cm vent near/at the bottom
GM
edit: smoothest sim is with driver 0.42 x L i.d.
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@alexg did you get around to building some enclosures for the Philips drivers?
I have just purchased a pair and should have them here before the weekend or early next week.
I am thinking of putting them in a MTLT or TQWT enclosure, however will need to compensate somewhere as an enclosure size of 200L+ is a bit much. Fortunately I have some subwoofers which will be used to help with the lower bass so I really just need these to produce midbass and upwards.
@GM, I saw on page 10 you mentioned MTLT if you'd like to go under the Fs of the driver and TQWT if you'd prefer more midbass although you mentioned a higher roll off.
How much higher would we be looking at when it comes to a TQWT?
Would picking one over the other offer a smaller enclosure for similar bass extension?
I know how to use WinISD and some of the basic software for the more common sealed and ported enclosures, however haven't used software for horns and pipes and from screenshots I have seen previously it looks a lot more complex.
So at this point in time I am unable to run my own sims, will need to learn.
I have just purchased a pair and should have them here before the weekend or early next week.
I am thinking of putting them in a MTLT or TQWT enclosure, however will need to compensate somewhere as an enclosure size of 200L+ is a bit much. Fortunately I have some subwoofers which will be used to help with the lower bass so I really just need these to produce midbass and upwards.
@GM, I saw on page 10 you mentioned MTLT if you'd like to go under the Fs of the driver and TQWT if you'd prefer more midbass although you mentioned a higher roll off.
How much higher would we be looking at when it comes to a TQWT?
Would picking one over the other offer a smaller enclosure for similar bass extension?
I know how to use WinISD and some of the basic software for the more common sealed and ported enclosures, however haven't used software for horns and pipes and from screenshots I have seen previously it looks a lot more complex.
So at this point in time I am unable to run my own sims, will need to learn.
