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Pensil and superpensil for A12.2 P

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kp93300

Member
Joined 2007
chrisb said:
At the risk of sounding like a broken LP (remember those?), I think the Avebury would need even more real estate - i.e. spacing from rear wall - than the SuperPensils to fully blossom, and regardless of contribution to cubic volume by 9 or even 10ft ceiling, I seriously question that 200sq ft would provide the listening distance for the panoramic soundstage of which this tall double rear mouth design is capable. I've heard the smaller sibling Maeshowe (A7.3) and kissing cousins Victor ( FE126E) and Vulcan (FE166E) fill a big room.

But if you're finding the GR V2s to not present any issues in the room, then I could be all wet. I have limited experience with open baffle designs, and while none that I have heard had issues with bass boom, there were other reasons why they're not quite right for me.

If the 12P is definitely the driver to be used, I'd seriously consider any of the smaller stand mounted designs already named.
Click to expand...


I will consider your advice.
I may ask the carpenter to build all 3 carbinets for testing if he donot charge me too much !
after all this is diy .
 
M

mp9

Member
Joined 2006
chrisb said:
At the risk of sounding like a broken LP (remember those?), I think the Avebury would need even more real estate - i.e. spacing from rear wall - than the SuperPensils to fully blossom, and regardless of contribution to cubic volume by 9 or even 10ft ceiling, I seriously question that 200sq ft would provide the listening distance for the panoramic soundstage of which this tall double rear mouth design is capable. I've heard the smaller sibling Maeshowe (A7.3) and kissing cousins Victor ( FE126E) and Vulcan (FE166E) fill a big room.
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If the 12P is definitely the driver to be used, I'd seriously consider any of the smaller stand mounted designs already named.
Click to expand...
Please, i wasn't suggesting a Avebury in his 200sq' room, lol.:rolleyes:

I'd love to build a pair but am afraid to do the 73.5" high Avebury in my largest, a smallish 234sq' ~ 13' x 18' room / 8' ceilings. The only thing that would even lead me to consider it is that it would not be pressurizing (not sure if thats the correct word), the small 234sq' room because one end wall has a 5' opening into a hallway/partially open staircase, and ~ 30" out from the opposite end wall of it's adjacent side wall is a 7.8' opening to a 12' x 11.5' room. I would be seated on the sofa up against that end wall in order to maintain minimal listening distance from the speakers and minimal speakers distances from room boundaries. Not even remotely ideal for those masterpieces:eek:
 
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M

mp9

Member
Joined 2006
- screws ~ every 4" along the cleats (and brace depending on it's design), with a closed cell foam weather stripping gasket. Chris suggest accounting for the space filled by the weather stripping. I don't unless you intend for the removable back to be a permanent feature and do not plan to permanently glue the back on when you realize you've spent enough time playing with the amount of fill.

Additionally, and imo, unless you have gorilla arms the removable back concept is overkill. A slightly oversized binding post plate, strategically located so you can reach where you cant thru the driver cutout should suffice.
 
C

chrisb

Member
Joined 2002
mp9 said:
- screws ~ every 4" along the cleats (and brace depending on it's design), with a closed cell foam weather stripping gasket. Chris suggest accounting for the space filled by the weather stripping. I don't unless you intend for the removable back to be a permanent feature and do not plan to permanently glue the back on when you realize you've spent enough time playing with the amount of fill.
Click to expand...

Fair enough - if you're able to achieve an air-tight seal on the back panel without the use of gasket

Additionally, and imo, unless you have gorilla arms the removable back concept is overkill. A slightly oversized binding post plate, strategically located so you can reach where you cant thru the driver cutout should suffice.
Click to expand...
for the 12Ps that's probably true, but I guess I just get stuck on a technique that works for the smaller drivers - try that out with the 7.3/ CHR70 etc.
 
M

mp9

Member
Joined 2006
mp9 said:
- screws ~ every 4" along the cleats (and brace depending on it's design), with a closed cell foam weather stripping gasket.

Chris suggest accounting for the space filled by the weather stripping.

I don't unless you intend for the removable back to be a permanent feature and do not plan to permanently glue the back on when you realize you've spent enough time playing with the amount of fill.
Click to expand...
chrisb said:
Fair enough - if you're able to achieve an air-tight seal on the back panel without the use of gasket
Click to expand...
Chris, i never said not to install a gasket when doing a removable back. I don't recommend accounting for the space which the gasket takes up if at some point you plan to permanently glue the back panel in place, and you want it to remain flush with the rest of the box.
 
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M

mp9

Member
Joined 2006
Yeah, different mind sets, lol. This is probably my only Pencil build for now until Mark cooks up a advanced next generation A12P, assuming it'll require another box.
I'm very happy with the direction Mark took the 12P's allowing us to drive them with flea watt amps and the pleasing results to date:)
 
K

KarlsMoody

Member
Joined 2012
One last set of questions..
I'm not quite sure if the holes in the bracing account for 30-50% of the bracing itself..could be a little less...is this a huge issue? Nothing i can do about it now, sadly..
Also..how far behind the front opening should the polyfill/wool begin?
Sorry..my first time with DIY speakers
 
K

kp93300

Member
Joined 2007
Hi ,
I havenot build my carbinets but this is a picture i saw in the net. I have no idea whether this is the correct way to do things.
I hope experienced builders can shed some light
kp93300
 

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K

KarlsMoody

Member
Joined 2012
" Scott (Super Pensil designer) advises that the stuffing material be unformly distributed throughout the cabinet. "
This from a previous post..
And that's exactly the reason for my asking. I have yet to see a picture of the stuffing of a Superpensil enclosure. Uniformly distributed does not look like the one in the previous picture. I guess i could put it this way : Does the stuffing go from top to bottom and from front to back?
 
Z

zman01

Member
Joined 2011
KarlsMoody,

Probably there is no single correct answer for this. Depending on room and your system, personal taste (and I daresay stuffing material), the amount will vary.

Suggest you try out like the picture and then add as required. The removable back panel gives you that option. :)
 
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