Thank you.
Sounds like there’s no way around a helper-woofer…?
And there is no way to combine a fullrange and a dedicated woofer without a crossover, right? They would at least have to be the same sensitivity and complement each other with roll off.
I am just taken with the idea of nothing between the driver(s) and the amplifier…
Sounds like there’s no way around a helper-woofer…?
And there is no way to combine a fullrange and a dedicated woofer without a crossover, right? They would at least have to be the same sensitivity and complement each other with roll off.
I am just taken with the idea of nothing between the driver(s) and the amplifier…
They would (as in complimentary frequency responses), plus need to have a reasonable phase-match. Your other option, since you like the idea of no filtering, is to run your choice of wideband sealed to keep power handling as high as practical and either as noted have a couple of active subwoofers doing their own thing, or run the woofers passive with a suitable low-pass. Latter isn't a big favourite of mine but can work out reasonably.
SEAS FA22 is a god choice for trying that thou.
These help: http://www.planet10-hifi.com/downloads/B200-phase-plug.pdf
You need to notch the bottom to accomodate the non-flat part of the polepiece.
dave
These help: http://www.planet10-hifi.com/downloads/B200-phase-plug.pdf
You need to notch the bottom to accomodate the non-flat part of the polepiece.
dave
I have heard the Sibelius, and really like them, we did a side by side comparison with a pair of (properly made) Pensil cabinets from Valchromat with my fav' Alpair7.3 which only had a few hours on them.
Overall I still preferred the 7.3, for what they lacked in lower end oomph, they make up for in absolute pin point top end and sparkle.
@Malm7913 don't discount a proper subwoofer (or 2/3). My pre-amp can do basic XO and cut the bass to the main drivers, or some subs have bypass. But a well integrated (in terms of blending in with the main speakers) can do a lot for not needing to turn speakers up so loud and fill in that missing octave...
Overall I still preferred the 7.3, for what they lacked in lower end oomph, they make up for in absolute pin point top end and sparkle.
@Malm7913 don't discount a proper subwoofer (or 2/3). My pre-amp can do basic XO and cut the bass to the main drivers, or some subs have bypass. But a well integrated (in terms of blending in with the main speakers) can do a lot for not needing to turn speakers up so loud and fill in that missing octave...
I've read over this thread, the Pearl's intrigue me and I'm thinking about building the Pensil's with the 10.3's. I'm wondering how much the French Oak adds to the sound. One of my hats is cabinet making and I know the logistics of solid wood furniture. Making a sealed box amplifies that ten fold - it's just hard to get right even for experienced woodworkers. Has anyone tried it or compared the Pensil's side by side?
Thanks for the help and advice,
Rob
Thanks for the help and advice,
Rob
The French Oak makes them pretty, but they have to be built well, let’s assume so, but quality plywood will give a more reliable, likely less coloured box. If you want very pretty with the advantgaes of quality ply by using stranded/fossilized bamboo plywood. Eats tools, very expensive, but once you add teh cost of veneer and the work to apply it, expense is likely not as large as it would seem.
dave
dave
Thanks Dave.
Personally oak has never been my favorite wood, don't like the color and don't like the open grain. Cherry, figured maple and walnut which are all indigenous to my area are all just nicer woods in my opinion. Woods with resins usually are a bit better with respect to cracking. Teak is very good but it contains silica which is brutal on steel cutters.
I was wondering if the solid wood was by design and Harley specifically chose that option for coloration? Doesn't Harbeth dabble in that area too? You'd probably know better than me, my side is usually the electronics end.
Personally oak has never been my favorite wood, don't like the color and don't like the open grain. Cherry, figured maple and walnut which are all indigenous to my area are all just nicer woods in my opinion. Woods with resins usually are a bit better with respect to cracking. Teak is very good but it contains silica which is brutal on steel cutters.
I was wondering if the solid wood was by design and Harley specifically chose that option for coloration? Doesn't Harbeth dabble in that area too? You'd probably know better than me, my side is usually the electronics end.
He chose the wood for the art factor.
Bernie builds a lot of solid wood boxes. I have one in Duuglas Fir (a pine) and in Yew. But walnut, yellow cedar, oak, locust, and more…
Probably the best sounding of the lot was Western Red Cedar. Really stiff, really light, but easily bruised. I think a penetrating epoxy could fix that.
Each solid wood box will have at least a slightly different sonic signature. Better or not? I ask an important question., How do you define better.
If you are comfortable building with solid and can source good material* then go for it.
*(for the Western Red Cedar, one needs old growth)
dave
Bernie builds a lot of solid wood boxes. I have one in Duuglas Fir (a pine) and in Yew. But walnut, yellow cedar, oak, locust, and more…
Probably the best sounding of the lot was Western Red Cedar. Really stiff, really light, but easily bruised. I think a penetrating epoxy could fix that.
Each solid wood box will have at least a slightly different sonic signature. Better or not? I ask an important question., How do you define better.
If you are comfortable building with solid and can source good material* then go for it.
*(for the Western Red Cedar, one needs old growth)
dave
Last edited:
Some gratitous pictures.
Black Locust
Oak?
Douglas Fir (Bernies 70 year oild floor) with a walnut insert.this is one of my personal pairs.
Not all these are Bernie’s and i can olny guess the wood in some of them. The first is my Yew pair, the last Chris’ black walnit pair. 2nd one is Oak, 3rd is Western Red Cedar
These are in Yellow Cedar (the first ever Compact FLoorstander build)
dave
Black Locust
Oak?
Douglas Fir (Bernies 70 year oild floor) with a walnut insert.this is one of my personal pairs.
Not all these are Bernie’s and i can olny guess the wood in some of them. The first is my Yew pair, the last Chris’ black walnit pair. 2nd one is Oak, 3rd is Western Red Cedar
These are in Yellow Cedar (the first ever Compact FLoorstander build)
dave