I have a (AC) 30DC supply which I use to run a smaller home made supply that gives more accurate readings under 5A. This is perfect for repairing.
If I need more than 5A I move to my larger 30A supply.(which is rarly) The reason I don't just use this alone is its current control is not accurate under around ~5A. And as u know u do need to keep a very close eye on those numbers.
Anything higher than than 30A I just move to my LTO bank 🙂
If I need more than 5A I move to my larger 30A supply.(which is rarly) The reason I don't just use this alone is its current control is not accurate under around ~5A. And as u know u do need to keep a very close eye on those numbers.
Anything higher than than 30A I just move to my LTO bank 🙂
No I never put an amp on the 30A supply. Always off my little home-made that is generally capped at ~5A depending on what I'm working on. I generally don't need over 4A until it's time for a load test (subwoofer)
Edit. What I ment to say Is I never just put an amp on the 30A supply. Every single amp I get in goes on the 0-5A supply. Until it's been tested and fixed.
Edit. What I ment to say Is I never just put an amp on the 30A supply. Every single amp I get in goes on the 0-5A supply. Until it's been tested and fixed.
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I can't ask you to do something that you wouldn't ordinarily do. If I had this to do, I'd replace the defective parts and power up with as much current as it needed, being careful not to allow anything to overheat (all components clamped to the heatsink). If it drew excessive current for more than about 1 second, it could indicate that there was a serious problem. If it simply has a large initial inrush, that's likely normal. Some amps need everything that a 30 amp supply can deliver just to power up.
OK so all back in its heat sink.
Will draw 13A then just make the scream noise and amperage just drops off to next to nothing.
But..... I notice if I heat the UC3526 with 200Deg Celsius for a few seconds the amp draws upwards of 20amps and even when you disengage the remote pedal the amp remains on and drawing HEAPS of current.
Until u let it cool off.
First few times I cut main power to it. Then after a few more times I just left it do it's thing drawing 20Amps. It eventually let's go and turns off.
What's even a bit more strange is nothing appears to be getting hot. I mean it is 30deg Celsius here in Australia today.........
Will draw 13A then just make the scream noise and amperage just drops off to next to nothing.
But..... I notice if I heat the UC3526 with 200Deg Celsius for a few seconds the amp draws upwards of 20amps and even when you disengage the remote pedal the amp remains on and drawing HEAPS of current.
Until u let it cool off.
First few times I cut main power to it. Then after a few more times I just left it do it's thing drawing 20Amps. It eventually let's go and turns off.
What's even a bit more strange is nothing appears to be getting hot. I mean it is 30deg Celsius here in Australia today.........
It just blew the mains fuse In my 30A power supply 😪
I'll have to go down the shop and get a new fuse.
The remote was unresponsive when u heat the UC chip. Amp just stayed on its own.
I've tried pulsing the remote. No change.
Lto bank time 😅
I'll just say I've never needed this much power just to idle an amplifier...... but then I'm not at all familire with A/B
I'll have to go down the shop and get a new fuse.
The remote was unresponsive when u heat the UC chip. Amp just stayed on its own.
I've tried pulsing the remote. No change.
Lto bank time 😅
I'll just say I've never needed this much power just to idle an amplifier...... but then I'm not at all familire with A/B
I think something else is happening. I wouldn't go for any more current. The amp i was referring to was a class D.
There are some of the older Orion class B amps that won't power up if you limit the current. There have been too many times where starving an amp for current caused problems.
Pull the rectifiers and see if the amp will power up.
There are some of the older Orion class B amps that won't power up if you limit the current. There have been too many times where starving an amp for current caused problems.
Pull the rectifiers and see if the amp will power up.
These are why the fuse In my AC power supply blew. These rectifiers are shorted so the fuse kept blowing. I'll order parts for it now and hopefully have it up and running again soon....
In the meantime ill just hook my homemade supply upto a 12v AGM. Ill remove the recifiers from the orion soon
In the meantime ill just hook my homemade supply upto a 12v AGM. Ill remove the recifiers from the orion soon
{With rectifiers removed}
If I don't allow more than 1.5A in. It Switches fine.
If I keep the amperage at 1.5A. And apply heat even 50deg C it immediately starts glitching the drive.....
{With rectifiers removed}
If I allow anymore than 1.5A it will glitch the drive.
Only issue I'm seeing is those chips are not available in Australia....
Element14 don't stock them that I can see
If I don't allow more than 1.5A in. It Switches fine.
If I keep the amperage at 1.5A. And apply heat even 50deg C it immediately starts glitching the drive.....
{With rectifiers removed}
If I allow anymore than 1.5A it will glitch the drive.
Only issue I'm seeing is those chips are not available in Australia....
Element14 don't stock them that I can see
I used some kapton tape and alloy foil to try isolate the driver. I did account for possibly heating up other components.
I'm 99.8% sure it's the driver. Every single other component in the amp has been tested except for the driver boards. (Not that there 'causing this' issue as its still the same with the rectifiers removed.
Just had a look at prices for the UC chip. $40AUD Inc shipping gotta get it out of the USA.
I've passed this info on to the owner see if he wants to go ahead.
No old rockfords unfortunately I only got DB drive. Sound digital. Alpine. Mb quart. And sound maggus in my scrap pile.
I'm 99.8% sure it's the driver. Every single other component in the amp has been tested except for the driver boards. (Not that there 'causing this' issue as its still the same with the rectifiers removed.
Just had a look at prices for the UC chip. $40AUD Inc shipping gotta get it out of the USA.
I've passed this info on to the owner see if he wants to go ahead.
No old rockfords unfortunately I only got DB drive. Sound digital. Alpine. Mb quart. And sound maggus in my scrap pile.
Since it's going to be expensive to replace, try heating the IC alone. If you have a small block of copper/aluminum/brass stock, place that with a small amount of heatsink compound on the IC and heat that stock with your soldering iron. If you have some scrap silicone insulators, heat the stock through those to better distribute the heat. Does the IC do the same thing when heating that way? If no stock, heating through a screwdriver insert bit from a 10in1 type screwdriver will work relatively well. You just need something to distribute the heat.
Hi perry sorry for the delay.
I did the test you suggested and it is indeed that chip. If I put my solder iron on the chip it's self with amp powered up. Once chip reaches about 100deg C it will begin to glitch (amperage limited to 1.5A) yet without removing power but simply removing the iron and waiting about a minute for the chip to cool it will stop glitching.
No other components are being heated during this test.
With the blown 1ohm resistor feeding the (originally shorted) PNP that runs to the 3526 that was a bit of a give-away that chip got fed something it didn't like.
I've just ordered the chip out of the USA be about a week or 2.
Then we can move on to why the front channels are not producing audio🙂
Thankyou for you're guidance perry I appreacte it.
I did the test you suggested and it is indeed that chip. If I put my solder iron on the chip it's self with amp powered up. Once chip reaches about 100deg C it will begin to glitch (amperage limited to 1.5A) yet without removing power but simply removing the iron and waiting about a minute for the chip to cool it will stop glitching.
No other components are being heated during this test.
With the blown 1ohm resistor feeding the (originally shorted) PNP that runs to the 3526 that was a bit of a give-away that chip got fed something it didn't like.
I've just ordered the chip out of the USA be about a week or 2.
Then we can move on to why the front channels are not producing audio🙂
Thankyou for you're guidance perry I appreacte it.
Fitted new 3526 now all that power supply nonsense is gone woo hoo....
Still trying to work on why I'm not seeing any audio out of 2 of the channels.
Found a shorted n7000 (bjt) and a few open resistors in a section of the board. Replaced all those and am seeing improvement. (Sorry no photos of this section...
But just wanted to ask if anyone has some nice clear photos of where there output driver boards solder to the board?
I've found a stray trace and can't figure out where it goes..... no vier that I can see....
Still trying to work on why I'm not seeing any audio out of 2 of the channels.
Found a shorted n7000 (bjt) and a few open resistors in a section of the board. Replaced all those and am seeing improvement. (Sorry no photos of this section...
But just wanted to ask if anyone has some nice clear photos of where there output driver boards solder to the board?
I've found a stray trace and can't figure out where it goes..... no vier that I can see....