if you do not need so low, find good PA 18" woofer and that will beat any 6.5" crap anytime
Oh yeah! B&C 18PS100!
4x6.5" woofers will have over 500cm^2 of Sd in most cases.
1x10" woofer will have around or under ~350cm^2 of Sd.
I don't think they can be compared very fairly.
A single 12" woofer is a much better comparison, as they tend to have ~500cm^2 Sd.
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If the question really is 1x10" vs 4x6.5", Assuming typical average characteristics, I would lean towards the 4x6.5" for reasons of efficiency. However; If we go with the fair comparison of a 12" driver. I would lean towards the 12" unless I needed higher frequency reproduction from it.
I think he was talking about 1 10" vs 2 6.5" per side.
Which combination will give a better result, namely tighter bass, kick bass, attack ...?
One of 10 inch woofer or four of 6.5 inch woofer per side?
Thank you
I think he was talking about 1 10" vs 2 6.5" per side.
How so?
Wise info that the op may not think about now.... you cannot 'isolate' a certain sound' aspect, without compromising other areas
and you may not like those 'compromises', or didnt expect them
its a bit like when they say, know your 'enemy'
Dave, would you mind to give an example of the box you are talking about for better visualization of the mechanics involved.One can do a whole lot of generalization, selection of real drivers could well change things.
In general a 10" will go lower giving deeper bass, 6s will extend higher and likely be easier to integrate with what comes above.
Personally i like to use pairs in push-push so as to get active vibration cancelation, and reduce the load going into the box.
Can you give a broad example (pic)...... Push-pull also uses 2 opposed woofers, but is harder to mechanically. It does indeed reduce 2nd order distortion but at the expense of 3rd order (but only if you are using "cheap" woofers out of their linear range. If the balance is tipped such that 3rd is larger than 2nd then it likely willsound worse.
dave
Dave I would suggest a new thread, for better handling of this subject by us/members. I have been thinking about this the last couple of days.
would you mind to give an example of the box you are talking about for better visualization of the mechanics involved.
An early illustration of an all out assault on the idea, using a woofer specifically designed to make it possible.
toobz woofer
More practical examples can be seen in many of my FR bipole drawings, microTower and Thirlmere-R are 2 good examples.
(the 2nd set are Castle versions and don't take advantage of the push-push)
KEF were the 1st (that i know of) to introduce push-push with one of their 104s (?) -- 2 8' in a bandpass box and a connecting rod between the drivers. I had been introduced to the idea before this, but didn't take advantage until i started building subs. It has been used more and more often (by a number of vendors), and the latest incarnation is the KEF blade.
Anytime i can, i use this technic, particularily in woofers where the most can be gained -- almost for free it gives you the opportunity to remove, say, 90% of the mechanically transmitted load into the box. allowing for an easier to build, lighter box with a lower noise floor (and one that doesn't walk across the floor).
dave
I believe Barefoot Sound uses a similar system.
Barefoot Sound :: The Technology
They've become quite popular since they came out.
Barefoot Sound :: The Technology
They've become quite popular since they came out.
I've heard good things about these outside this thread although I haven't pursued it...yet. Dave, how would you rate (in order of importance or magnitude of the issue considering a typical high crossed sub or low crossed woofer, and possibly considering using a lighter box as has been suggested).... dealing with the three issues...mechanical vibration as in box walking, even order harmonic cancellation, and standard panel vibrations?
Thanks. Yes, I was trying to reconcile this looking at your diagram while wondering about the sound of SETs.cancelling even order HD is not that important (Geddes)
and this reminds me of that scan-speak woofer motor. Very clean but has you reaching for that SET againand if done (ie a push-pull pair) may increase 3rd over 2nd which is not the best scenerio.
Back when multi-cell horns like in your avatar were first created, your statement held some degree of truth.6.5" are not woofers, that is a midrange.
Now there are 6.5" (and smaller) drivers with adequate excursion capability and low Fs that can put out far more low frequency than many 15" drivers of that era.
Cone diameter does not determine frequency response.
than many 15" drivers of that era.
Or this one. You're not talking about 15" mids, are you
Sure, and with plenty of distortion at no added cost! I have owned a few 6.5" and 8" "subs." They are cute and do very well at moderate levels. Just don't ask them to play loud AND clean.Now there are 6.5" (and smaller) drivers with adequate excursion capability and low Fs that can put out far more low frequency than many 15" drivers of that era.
one 18" woofer!
Two 18" woofers!
if you do not need so low, find good PA 18" woofer and that will beat any 6.5" crap anytime
Yup.
like this one for instance...
Goldwood GW-18120 18" Deluxe PA Woofer 290-398
I used it for PA speakers for our music group
Audio Pages: PA speakers
Goldwood GW-18120 18" Deluxe PA Woofer 290-398
I used it for PA speakers for our music group
Audio Pages: PA speakers
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