Yes, that's the one. I'm almost done, waiting on a selector switch to wrap everything up. I have high hopes for it, I built his simple folded phono pre and it is great.
I am thinking the same thing. There was a lot of cable swapping. As you know, no sound comes out at first, which would explain the delay in noise. I will be playing it a lot looking to replicate the problem. Meanwhile BA3 is downstairs.
Russellc
I have not had any sort of repeat of this problem. I am feeling certain, well fairly certain that I didn't have one of the interconnects fully engaged...But I find that hard to believe. There was a lot of changing of cables.
The delay is explainable because of the Amps warm-up characteristics. So far so good. At this point, it is my favorite. Second fav is complementary BA3 with 31 volt rails.
Then F6, F5. All are sooo nice, just different.
Russellc
Thank's to both of you!
I've been busy, so I had to let go of this for a short while...
Since you're happy with the 3U 300mm Dissipante chassis ElFishi I will go for that. But then my 500VA xformers won't fit, so I'm planing to use a pair of 2x18V 250VA transformers, which should just about fit if I mount them "standing up". I'm a bit concerned about hum though. What transformer are yuo using ElFishi? And did you have any problems wit humming?
//Ronny
Ronny,
make sure you can fit everything into the chassis.
I don't use any of the PCBs offered here, so I can't tell how they fit.
My transformer is a toroidy audio grade 400VA. It is slightly bulkier than a normal one.
No problem with hum, Edcors shielded with TEKO 3710 tin boxes, 92dB speakers.
make sure you can fit everything into the chassis.
I don't use any of the PCBs offered here, so I can't tell how they fit.
My transformer is a toroidy audio grade 400VA. It is slightly bulkier than a normal one.
No problem with hum, Edcors shielded with TEKO 3710 tin boxes, 92dB speakers.
I saw the Pictures of your build ElFishi. Nice! The kind of DIY I'd like to do some time in the future.
My concerns were mainly about heat and hum, but that seems to be ok. I got my boards from Tea-bag, and if I cut of the diode boards it should be makeable to fit everything in, even though it would be a tight fit. Or I might play it safe and order the 400mm chassis...
I'll get the Toroidy Audio Grade too, but go for a double supply, saving some more space.
Thanks for your support!
//Ronny
My concerns were mainly about heat and hum, but that seems to be ok. I got my boards from Tea-bag, and if I cut of the diode boards it should be makeable to fit everything in, even though it would be a tight fit. Or I might play it safe and order the 400mm chassis...
I'll get the Toroidy Audio Grade too, but go for a double supply, saving some more space.
Thanks for your support!
//Ronny
Update on the Humm issue
Today I had some spare time to work on the M2
Work has been consuming my energy slowly
Anyway I manufactured a torodial enclosure
It's very neat and tidy and I have affixed a band of copper foil around the circumstance as well
@ZenMod - yes I took note of the advice " Not to let the centre bolt touch the lid "
Testing for hum
Very little change
Next step is to swap over the JFets - but I lent out my soldering iron.
FR
Today I had some spare time to work on the M2
Work has been consuming my energy slowly
Anyway I manufactured a torodial enclosure
It's very neat and tidy and I have affixed a band of copper foil around the circumstance as well
@ZenMod - yes I took note of the advice " Not to let the centre bolt touch the lid "
Testing for hum
Very little change
Next step is to swap over the JFets - but I lent out my soldering iron.
FR
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FR
I am no expert here. Your grounding arrangement seems odd, I used Tea-bag's boards for my built, speaker binding posts positive and return back to the main board, capacitor board ground to main board ground, one end of cl-60 go to capacitor board's ground the other end go to chassis grounding bolt, power entry socket ground go to the chassis grounding bolt. That's how I wired my ground scheme, hope that help you tackle the hum.
Sidney
I am no expert here. Your grounding arrangement seems odd, I used Tea-bag's boards for my built, speaker binding posts positive and return back to the main board, capacitor board ground to main board ground, one end of cl-60 go to capacitor board's ground the other end go to chassis grounding bolt, power entry socket ground go to the chassis grounding bolt. That's how I wired my ground scheme, hope that help you tackle the hum.
Sidney
Hi Sidney thanks for the input
That's how the M2 was wired previously and changed to the version you see today
However both ways produce Hum
FR
Update on the Humm issue
Today I had some spare time to work on the M2
Work has been consuming my energy slowly
Anyway I manufactured a torodial enclosure
It's very neat and tidy and I have affixed a band of copper foil around the circumstance as well
@ZenMod - yes I took note of the advice " Not to let the centre bolt touch the lid "
Testing for hum
Very little change
Next step is to swap over the JFets - but I lent out my soldering iron.
FR
Is it the same on both chanels? Your power chord runs very close to one side. Maybe you could try to center it?
//Ronny
Both channels affected
The power cord is fully insulated and shielded, it's a recent upgrade
And the previous cable was also possitioned in the centre
FR
